Cubes

The R33's run a 4.11:1 diff ratio; the R32's run the 4.363. Also. A higher diff ratio is numerically lower i.e 3.7:1, a lower diff ratio is numberically higher i.e 4.3:1. Yes a higher ratio diff will help prevent wheel spin but it does make the car feel like it takes longer to come up on boost when toodling around then mashing the throttle from a low rpm. First gear was much more enjoyable and usable however the trade off in the snap hard on boost in second and third gear simply was not worth it. 100km/h cruising speed did drop the rev's a little but unless you drop to a 3.7:1 or there abouts its really not that noticable. 3.7:1 will have your 0-100 times increase noticably. So don't do it. I have and went straight back to a 4.3. If the engine noise gets to you at 100km/h shove in another muffler just after the cat. Traction, you shouldn't have issues with only 209rwkw; as others have suggested definitely take a good look at your diff, suspension and tyres. Apart from tyres which is obvious the diff's worn VLSD is usually the culprit.

Thats how I have my fmic setup. All though not the best technically due to the great big dirty 180degree bend but it works. I prefer this setup as it keeps the engine bay clean.

I'd avoid grommet hose at all cost. It begins splitting damn quick. Spend the $$ on decent efi hose; pirtek have good stuff that stays supple.

Are these Tomei/Nismo pumps good for 400rwkw?

radr33, Its the dyno mildrens use. Jump on a DD dyno and it will read more realistic to what others here on SAU use.

What exactly do you feel needs updating?

bump.

My old rb20det with the stock turbo used to run hit 10.9psi and hold to redline. BUT... that was with a full exhaust unlike yourself. Your still running a stock rb20de exhaust. Mine with the stock exhaust from memory was 9psi.

I've driven Bl4ck32 OS twin and its f**king awesome. Extremely nice take up, very smooth and a fairly light pedal. But anythings light compared to my 9puk xtreme XHD. Either way I'd be more than happy to live with the OS twin all day every day. See how I go; I've got a few things on my plate at the moment so one thing at a time; then I'll look at the clutch side of things.

I'm assuming you've ran on semi's? I think it has a lot to do with the oil pump; mine with basically a rb20 head on steroids (r32 rb25de) with a good pump dumps shit loads of oil in the head over 6000rpm. Enough if I don't run a catch can for it to plume the rear vision full of smoke. Fingers crossed thats all sorted. All though a little worried about doing so I've taken Sydneykids suggestion of blocking off the rear oil feed and running a single 1.5mm up front. The reason I'm a tad worried is I haven't heard any one say YES its fine with the RB20 to do this and those with R33 RB25's that have done it with no issues have an extra head oil feed via the VCT. Time will tell. :S I might see you out there some time soon Simon/Salad.

The VG30 BB comp cover is fine. The journal bearing.. I have no idea.

You blokes with the GTST std sump. Do you do the 1ltr overfill for trackwork also?

I'd go OS if I could find one for a reasonable price, but then you run the risk of it being stuffed. You got a really good deal with yours. Nengun cheapest I can see is 1.4k then right up to 2k for a twinplate. I'd almost prefer to go the twin for another couple hundred over jim berry's. But would it be better than Jim berry's.

Ash, My Xtreme 9puk is slowly slipping worse and worse. More so for some reason when I grab third gear. So I am up for a clutch. I can't well don't want to afford a jim berry full monty so I'm going to look at a 5puk exedy from Slide. I believe they are in the $400's. It should hold on ok. I hope. Slide has them listed for 300rwkw so fingers crossed it holds well. For the cost. I'm going to give it a shot. As they say... The poor man pays twice.. lmao. I've got my head sitting next to me with the cams just sitting in there loose; you don't need those regrinds do you? lol GTR springs are fitted; stock springs had 10psi seat pressure :S the gtr's have a touch over 35psi so a bit better.

Good luck Salad. Also interesting to note the std rb25 turbo hasn't had any issues previously or after.

Its predominately rwd; infact it fels like a rwd with lots of corner exit acceleration grip even though its breaking traction and the arse end hanging out slightly. The front diff is a single legger, either way; even if one wheel is spinning its still going to be pulling the front of the car in the direction of the wheel direction. The down side is turn-in; but nothing a little suspension/alignment tweaking can't sort. Either way ... The GTST will always have the upper hand on turn in and mid corner speed BUT it lacks corner exit or big long sweeping bend acceleration grip. For myself.. Long sweeping corner acceleration grip is where its at. Take it to the track.

So who's blocked off the rear oil feed of their RB20 or R32 RB25DE non-vct head? (i.e only one restrictor feeding the head) I've tried to see if the two feeds within the head are joined and be buggered if I can feel any vac through the rear feed. :S Maybe its the way I'm testing it. I've blocked off everything there is to block and there is a good deal of vac on the one oil feed yet the other see's nothing.

I've got a good set of hydraulic lifters to suit the RB25 and RB20; all have been inspected and bled. In good condition, nice and free/squishy. Not sure exactly what they are worth but looking at say $120 delivered.

performancelub.com is all good here, the virus scanner i run scans http and has picked up everything so far.

Do take in to consideration the ecu ignores the knock sensors above 4500rpmish.

Swap the CAS.

Mine is no peak hour.. Just local 60km/h shortish trips. Generally no longer than 20km's.

Listen to Troy. Having a motor that I spent quite a bit on leaves one worrying that it will break. $500 cheap RB20 and then building your rb23 up on the side yourself for cheap is definitely the way to go. So so much more enjoyable.

The old RB20DET @ 1bar, stock ecu, stock airbox, fmic & 3" exhaust making 164rwkw used to consistently crack 470km's to 50-52litres. The RB30DET is a touch heavier on fuel and usually see's 430-450km's to a tank but I do tend to give it a little more stick as it loves off idle acceleration. A little bit of open road 100km/h cruising and fuel economy pushes easily over 500km's to a tank. Its always been reasonable on fuel. It appears some cars are some aren't. Possibly driving style when you are driving slow/cruising? I've found I see a noticable improvement in economy shifting up around 2000-2500rpm absolute max in every gear even if it means using a little more throttle; get it in to top gear asap. Drop some nulon fuel system cleaner in it every 10,000km's and thats pretty much all I do.

Due to the price of it I've always wondered if the turbolight semi-synthetic is similiar to that of the grpIII synthetics (castrol etc) that are not really synthetics. Could be......