Cubes

Knock sensors are 100% perfect. I dropped the rb20 pfc back in to double check. It appears to be the 8.04a's RB26 PFC's firmware.. Only some one else with a 8.04a would be able to comment on their knock readings. Maybe their quality control is slipping.

This was done some years ago. LS1 + SAU Private drag day!

How do the paparazzi get around being able to film people? It is legal providing they don't stalk... Surely we could use these same laws to film a defecting incident?!?

VCT enables just off idle and disables at approx 5000rpm to improve mid range acceleration. When it disables at 5000rpm ish that then improves top end. So doing what you say will actually make it feel soggy through the mid range and top end will feel the same. You 'may' think its actually quicker up top as the mid range will be less punchy so gives the feeling of it having better top end.

Ok after driving the car for a bit it appears the rb26pfc has resolved one issue but in sorts created another. With the Rb20 PFC (and 3 others I have tried) I had issues of it going lean under ~1800-2000rpm when making more than a few psi of boost. Basically; leaving a round about in third gear at say 1100rpm, put the foot down, boost starts to climb afr's lean out 2000rpm comes and bang like a switch afr's would return to normal and the car would accelerate off down the road. Performing a map trace indicated the load points would only drop to 11 and then travel along the x (rpm) axis until 2000rpm where it would drop to 17 odd and then accelerate off. I tried altering the airflow curve, a different afm and as I said a few other RB20 PFC's. I came to the conclusion that possibly it was boost being blown straight out of the exhaust port due to the low rpm/cam overlap combination. Appears not the case. The RB26 pfc works 100%, doing the above it now is able to make all its boost under 2000rpm and accelerate without the mixtures going lean causing a hessitation lean missfire. BUT................ The knock sensitivity.... It appears to be really really dulled down compared to the rb20 pfc. The Rb20 pfc on the dyno with det cans saw det around the 50knock mark, I was able to hear det on the dyno at around 60ish. Under full load without det I would see knock levels up to around 30-40ish. The RB26 PFC. Under cruise it sits on 1-2 under load max holds 7-8. I've heard it detonate at 17ish. So the scaling or sensitivity of the RB26's 8.04a firmware is very very low. I've noticed from previous plays on the dyno that when it does ping it pings with a quick spike, so as far as I'm concerned any quick spike on the det graph is det; I've seen it spike to 15 and 17. Apart fromt he small knock readout issue (can be sorted to flash the dash light with anything over 10knock) I'm extremely happy with the rb26 pfc. Especially as it has sorted the under 2000rpm boost = leanout issue. Maybe the Rb26's run a different det sensor????

There's no need for the datalogit if you were to do this. There's an option to select between R33 or R32 GTR type o2 sensors via the h/c. The biggest difference is the wiring. The zirconia o2 sensor has slightly different pinouts so you would have to sort that side of it out. *Check out the circuit diagrams within the R33 and R32 GTR engine manuals* I've been through every nook and cranny with regards to the circuit diagrams to ensure nothing will blow up. BUT..... I believe you can grab R32 GTR NGK/NTK o2 sensors from a sponsor on this forum for a reasonable price. ~$283 for 2 o2 sensors. :S http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=135194 ok Sort of reasonable.. lol Good stuff Tangles.. This is what you've done? Ditched the SAFC?

RB26 PFC is wired in and working 100% perfect. I got the datalogit on to it and dropped in an rb25 airflow and map reference in there and my existing zirconia GTST type o2 sensor is doing its thing. The R33 GTR runs the newer faster Zirconia type o2 sensor where as the R32 GTR runs the older style so its important to select the r33 type from the menu item. I didn't have time to see if it would run on the rb26 airflow curve and map reference. May give that a shot in the near future. So its all good. No major drama's. Just a couple of things to look out for.

emissions? Vehicle standards told me we don't have emissions testing here in SA? Only a diesel emissions testing station? Then on the other hand Vehicle standards said it is possible to get emissions testing done for petrol but it costs in the region of $4000.

Aldershot road.. Bugger. :S The R32's almost always get pinged for worn upper control arm bushes. On the note of upper control arm bushes... Has any one been through regency with adjustable upper control arm bushes? No problems with the adjustable side of things?

Where abouts/what Road did you get done on in Lonsdale? Really gets under my skin these police that ping people for an atmo bov when there clearly isn't one.

It could almost fall under a hoon activity.... From what I understand the hooning also covers a disturbance of peace - loud stereo's, tyre smoke, wheely tyre noise etc.. A smokey stinky exhaust also disturbs the peace..

Boost creep is boost that creeps higher and higher as rpm increases. In short insufficient wastegate flow to keep boost under wraps.

Its quite the opposite when running them with the std int gate. They tend to boost creep; on the 4ltrs at least; I don't believe the larger 1.06 + gt35r turbine wheel will creep on a 2.5ltr.

They are pretty laggy on the 2.5ltr and tend to come on really smooth; they feel like an N/A with lots of top end. Considered a GT30 .82 or .63 IW from slide? Well priced. Then you need to factor in the additional cost of a split dump $380, water/oil lines/banjo's $150 and inlet pipe which is easy if you have a pod $50 for a 90degree bend of either 3" or 4" + some silicon.

Its fairly straight forward to have the rb25 reg'd in the R32 providing you run the R33 GTST front brakes, stock ecu. Basically 100% stock and u can reg it.

Exactly.... Boils down to $$ rather than safety. Head over to Sydney for a couple of weeks then once back in Adelaide you realise how many sh*t boxes we have on the road....

bah.... So its worse having a well maintained safe car that brakes well, is able to steer easily around obstacles, doesn't leak oil for you to hit on your catless motor bike that makes a little more power than an old dunga that has no suspension, leaks oil, bald tyres, no brakes etc etc.... You've completely missed the point.... There's so so many damn examples like this on the road and the police simply choose a modified car rather than one that is not maintained. I'm so so sick of driving behind cars that blow smoke and stink. They need to do something about it.

Kralster, So that you know what we are talking about.......... When we say roadworthy we mean maintained to ensure it drives safely. That being good tyres, good shockers, good bushes, good brakes and doesn't leak oil/water. Modified for performance; well that has nothing to do with not being roadworthy but everything to do with emissions. --------- On the note of being defected.... I've been close. I was pulled over for Tint (30% on the front windows) and ripped it off on the spot.

With regards to the splitfires.. There's a thread over on the datalogit forum where some one checked out the coils with an FSA scope. Long story short the dwll time within the pfc for the split fires was incorrect. Resulting in ignition breakdown at over 17psi odd ~290awkw. Adjusted dwell time so that the coil is saturated and missfire disappears.

The RB20 and VG30 compressor wheels are identical. The cores are identical; that being the compressor wheel, center section and turbine wheel. The Rb20 runs a small turbine and compressor cover to keep response up and spool down. The VG30 turbo runs the larger OP6 turbine housing and larger 45v compressor cover. The R33 Rb25 turbo runs a turbine housing that is apparently a little larger than the rb20's; be buggered if I was able to pick a difference apart from the markings. The RB25's compressor wheel is noticably larger and runs the larger 45v comp cover. The R34 RB25 turbo is from what I've seen is the same as the R33 S2 turbo apart from that larger VG30 sized OP6 turbine housing. The local turbo bloke here in Adelaide (ATS) told me the R32 and R33 turbine housings are a .6 and the VG30 and R34 OP6 turbine housings are a .7. There's nothing on paper stating their size but thats what he 'guestimates' without cutting one up. In short the turbine housings are all interchangable. The Compressor housings are not; RB20 and VG30 compressor housings you are able to swap over As for swapping comp covers on the R33/R34 RB25's, why one would want to do that is beyond me as they are the same size.

I'm out.. The rb26 pfc finally came today (took 11weeks from nengun) so I'm pulling the car off the road for a week to get a few things done to it + all tuned up.... Finally.. I've been running around on the ap engineering pfc base map for some time pumping extreme98 in to it to stop det.

Well fingers crossed they do actually aim at the unroadworthy cars. Those that are rude as shit and force me to hit the recirc button as their car smokes and stinks like crap; those that run bald tyres, those that have noticable wheel bearing noise, those that have their rear pads metal on metal!!!! Bring in the yearly inspections; similiar to that of otherstates.. Then we can have our local mechanic ensure our cars are up to scratch and also remove defects. At least I think thats how it works interstate?!?

SAU Cruise? LMAO

Received my PFC today. Double checked all the loom to ensure nothing was there that shouldn't be. All is ok. Disconnected the O2 sensor, Plugged the PFC in and its all working fine. I have still yet to splice up the afm and with regards to swapping the injectors 4 & 6 around I will do that at the fuel rail, split open the loom and have it exit the loom at injector 5. Then both injector plugs 4 & 6 are able to reach to both injectors so an easy swap. I'm hoping I'll have the afm splice and run the wire for the inlet air temp sensor done tomorrow and datalogit plugged in to sort its few issues and drive it home on the base map.

I wouldn't.. The Nismo items are essentially nissan items. The one I saw looked the same as the regular Nissan thermostat. Not skinny like the aftermarkets. Thanks RB30-Powa. Looks to be a good read.