Cubes

You say boost cut, I'm assuming you really mean Fuel cut. So your on boost then all of a sudden the car stops accelerating like you've flicked the key to off. So not popping and not missing. You take your foot off the accel then put your foot back on and it starts driving as per normal. Is that what you are referring to?

You'll have to remove the HID's.

The T78 is a tad oversized for the stock rb25t. Realistically 250-260rwkw is a nice reliable number but 300rwkw can be done providing its tuned well and the static comp dropped a tad via a thicker headgasket. Either way.. the T78 is oversized. lag lag lag when you don't really need to have for that power level.

I'm also after a set of rear tierods. I'll be checking out the r33 option most likely tomorrow when I head down to sort out a diff problem. :S

Shoot to down to exhaust technology, they should be able to help you get through defect with your current exhaust. Did they measure the height of the exhaust? 100mm clearance is what's required. Where abouts was the defect station?

I'm still a big PFC fan... The knock dash light flash is awesome, confidence inspiring especially as dyno's have a nasty habit of not placing enough load on the motor during tuning, once u get it on the street and load it up in that 4th gear from low rpm it pings its arse off.

Yer it was a good price. Not so long ago second hand they were going for $1600 odd, then dropped to around 1k then new they were 1k. I bought mine for 1.1k delivered. Looks like they will be pushing 1.6k+ again soon. <looks at my rb20 pfc and pats it>

In your other thread.. Did you follow the link I put up to the rb20t pfc from Slide?

$400 landed for a s/h nismo 2way is fairly reasonable, but weigh up if its worth the cost of axles being up close to $200 each + hubs ~$100 + setting up the center in your housing ~$350. So all up thats just over ~1k. For a touch more you can have a new mech center landed from nengun + $350 setup BUT you don't have the meaty axles should you decide to strap a set of slicks on to it and crack in to the 10's with 450rwhp+. Then you have to consider.... this s/h 2way.. does it require a rebuild or nearing a rebuild?

<just looking>

Slide has an Ap engineering pfc to suit the r32. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=162816 Slide is a reputable trader. Top bloke.

lol good to see the silicon trick is working well. Well enough to give you a little time to get some $$ together.

Can you elaborate on the emission side of things here in SA? I know what I have been told but I have been told 2 different things by Vehicle Standards. :S

Oh a very interesting bit of info here.. VH41 Twin turbo GTR/GTS4. Would be quite interesting.

I believe CRD do bran spankin new Z32 AFM's for around $300. Motortraders can also do them for near that price. With regards to the fuel pump look around here on SAU. Some of the traders sell them at an awesome price.

Dave.. Is that based on the S15 and R34 Helicals? I know they are very weak and break easily. The Quaife LSD is apparently near indestructable or is it just common knowledge that even the supposively indestructable Quaife LSD fails under high power? :S Bugger.

Blonk, Care to share a little bit of info on the emissions side of things here in SA? Martin Donnan got his LS1 TT kits through emissions; Its obviously doable but at what Cost.

Run rope from one side of the subframes elbow to the other under the diff and have the rope sticking out of the wheel arch, attach a pole of sorts and use that to lever the diff up and down, or at least help lift the diff. Usually I have the other half doing the lifting (its really not that hard) and I also lift + guide the diff in to position. Works well, and is actually really easy. I've attached a bodgy pic, possibly that can help you visualise.

lol yep its getting that way. 30mins. I use rope to lower and lift the diff as I no longer have the pit.

I've done one of my VLSD's. General low speed driving I didn't like how it unsettled the rear as I could feel the spider gears binding and then letting go on low speed corners so wobble wobble around round abouts. Straight line acceleration it made no improvement, single spinner. Corner exit it was excellent, always twin wheeled and sent the car all crossed up nicely. So this bodgy mod isn't for any one who is chasing a little more straight line grip from their tired VLSD. If you want improved corner exit grip or drift then the shim does work well. I used an extra 0.8mm shim. With a little more preload I think mine would have acted much like a locker, so it 'may' have improved straight line acceleration but most likely not. Also.. ~1000-2000km's the clunking etc will dissapear as the spider gears wear, I noticed the locking affect also diminishes slightly lol There's absolutely no benefit of doing this, it being centered doesn't matter.

I'm looking at a decent LSD as one thing or another I had a few issues with the last couple of s/h items I purchased. No drift for me so I've been looking at a good 1.5way or Helical LSD. The S15 diffs apparently don't hold all that much power, the Quaife items are tough as and apparently the OBX HLSD's that are identical to the Quaife diff's apart from a couple of minor quality control issues are also tough. The small issues these diff's have is the bolts from factory are not torqued down evenly resulting in slightly damaged bolts (easily replaced or cleaned up); the other issue is the preload, it appears from factory the mongs who drop the low quality conical washers in to the center don't position and set them up correctly. Which results in a noisy diff, the incorrect layout of the conical washers doesn't affect longevity of the diff its self so no biggy as I'll pull it apart and ensure its all setup correctly before dropping the center in. They are around $500 AUD delivered from the US. So essentially I'm looking at $500 + fitting from the local diff place. Unless I decide to buy the tools required so I can setup backlash etc myself. Depends what the tools are worth as I don't plan on having the diff out again any time soon. I'm currently running a late vlsd S13 4.08:1 SR diff. Any one had a fiddle or know of some one with one of these diffs?

Please don't do the vg30bb on the rb20det. Go an rb25 turbo, much more average power, spools earlier and doesn't feel as lazy with the same peak power.

The dyno's ramp rates are too fast to simulate a road condition such as this. Get it back to the dyno and tell him what its doing and he or maybe she will tune it a little more conservatively. OR.. Just don't drive in that manner.

You'll need an adj. fpr for more than 190rwkwish. Depending on dyno. Grab a nismo one from nengun or a trader on this site. Should see you through to 220-230rwkw. GTR pumps are old.. BUt they can be good. Just throw a cheap Bosch 040 in it. More than enough.