Cubes

Simon, Being easter break and everyones shut.... What are new rod ends worth? s/h or new? Thanks buddy.

Yep mine makes boost also. But it does require a hard 6000rpm rev.

I'll test mine tonight.

I can't see a CF bonnet meeting ADR's. Could be wrong.

I'm listening. I'm currently running 0.9mm gap as that is all mine allows. I run a good intercooler, inlet temps are down, good fmic, good exhaust.... standard plenum standard exh. manifold. Hence my suggestion that Guilt-Toy was possibly more so on the mark than the fuel pump suggestion. 3lit34 Give some tips on what can be done apart from silly fuel pump suggestions.

Throw an attessa controller in to it.. Dial in the amount of torque you want for the conditions, probably end up breaking something as you dial in more fwd on those launches.

The only way I've found to get around emissions (well told by some one in vehicle standards) here in SA is to move to NSW. Get the car emissions tested and engineer signed off that it meets ADR's, get it all reg'd then move back here and transfer the rego. Live 40km's away from the CBD so you are allowed to have a simple VIS check done by the local cop shop, be sure to bring all the associated documents from the modifications/engineer/emissions etc. Live inside of the 40km's and you'll be off to regency for a vis + roadworth that often than not they pick up something. Then the car will probably be defected and regency won't honor nsw's emissions testing engineering adr etc.. Who knows, they don't LMAO! There is word that SA is in the process of sorting out emissions testing for petrol vehicles, I'm not going to hold my breath.

sly33 is the bloke who has just had his std exhaust manifold extrude honed/power ported. ~34cfm increase per pot. Legend also had some data on flow rates. standard manifold .........hks cast ...............hks cast flow honed 1 159.7.........................170.7............................194.8 2 162.4.........................166.6............................203.4 3 160.7.........................178.7............................198.7 4 150.1.........................183.6............................200.3 5 149.9.........................182.2............................207.8 6 173.3.........................184.7............................202.8 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2682373 also this link from UAS with some more data. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=82555&hl= Obviously flow isn't everything as in the real world merge has a large influence on overall performance of the manifold.

How many km's have they done Secur1ty?

nice.. And rev's? Still pull it to 8000rpm?

Awesome Vid Troy. Love it... What rev's do you pull just before changing up? It would give me an indication of speeds your pulling in 5th as you head sideways in to that corner. lmao

Yep your right it is in degree's and minutes. It does track pretty straight on cambered roads. Its really quite difficult as I remember when I first bought the car with good bushes/shockers etc it felt more composed and stable through high speed corners and had much better turnin less understeer than my previous VS 5ltr Commodore that had a full whiteline/bilstein kit including adj. sway bars with riser kit & rear camber kit etc. Now it feels heaps better than when the bushes were stuffed but still feels a tad nervous through highspeed corners. Almost as if the arse end is too light. I should also add.. The cars still at std height, I try to avoid attention. I really want to firm it up in the spring department but have yet to find any one that does std or at least legal height (360mm minimum) springs. A tad offtopic but have you had any shagged rear rod ends salad? Do they do what I am experiencing with the wobble/twitch when getting on the throttle out of a 2nd-3rd gear corner? It doesn't appear to do it on a right hand bend.

No.. You've completely misunderstood. Please re-read my previous post, I don't think you have anything against regapping the plugs. What that says is....... yes.. there's many others with 'good' fuel pumps, 'good' fmic's, 'splitfires' but with the powerfc or other ecu (microtech). So the only 'real' difference is that your running the stock ecu. So why can you run 1.1mm while others can't? Maybe its the ign dwell values, maybe its the ign dwell vs volts, maybe......? It will lean out.. Fuel supply method has NOTHING to do with poor ignition providing there is fuel there. Gap plugs down because you run a walbro is what your post insinuates. I know you know thats not the case, which is why I said you know thats crap. Guilt-Toy I believe could possible be on to something.. Airflow/VE. Small turbo's with poor VE due to their restrictive hotside combined with stock exh. manifolds could partially be the problem.

Thats correct if you simply stroke the motor out and don't make changes to head airflow (cams/inlet) to allow for the greater airflow potential the bottom end is able to provide. Make changes to inlet tuning (runner length & plenum volume to suit the larger capacity) and cams; the larger motor will make considerably more every day usable power. The rb30's stroke is not considered long. Its rod to stroke ratio is perfect for making big high rpm power and mid range torque. Interestingly enough the rb20 is next in line, then the rb26 then rb25. My vote goes with a well sorted cam + auto + stall converter.

From my fiddlings I've noticed 2 sorts of 'slack' that feel similiar to backlash in the VLSD's. There's backlash its self.. Which whines like crap and then there's slack inside the diff center. Then there's the slackness that comes from the diffs spider gear to center engagement. When removing the spider gears there's (from memory) 4 or 5 lugs that lock in to the diff center that provides drive to the half shaft splines. From what I've seen these can be a tad sloppy and cause a slack ness of sorts. With the diff out of the car and backing plate off; turn the half shafts, you can feel/see the slackness within the center as the axles move yet the diff center doesn't. You can also hear the slackness coming from the diff spider gear engagements. Now turn the input (tail shaft) and you will see there's no backlash. Hold the half shafts while turning the input and again you'll see there's no backlash but slackness 'inside' the vlsd center. TO4GTR is right.. From what I've seen excessive backlash does = a noisy diff.

hrmmm that goes against my most recent wheel alignment sheet. Front: Castor L - +6 degree's 14' Castor R - +5 degree's 35' Camber L - -0 degree's 23' Camber R - +0 degree's 18' (inner and outer adjustable, currently max'd out which is the way I put them in for the drive to the wheelaligners, there appears to be a heap of adjustment in there as when fitted to max neg camber it looked like it had excessive track look neg camber) Toe L - -0 degree's 15' Toe R - +0 degree's 26' Rear: Camber L - -0 degree's 19' Camber R - +0 degree's 14' Toe L - +0 degree's 19' Toe R - +0 degree's 14' --------------- It drives straight, doesn't tramline, solid straight braking and has excellent turn in compared to before doing the bushes where the castor was completely buggered. I did the bushes in stages and found the tramlining was caused by the shagged castor bushes. Replacing the upper control arm bushes did nothing noticable apart from make it adjustable. The arse end does feel a little light and there is a strange wobble from the rear when putting the power down in third gear ~70-80km/h on left hand turns. It almost feels like the arse end sits down and steers the car in to the corner a little more. I suspect I may have a shagged rear rack rod end as subframe bushes have been replaced and everything else is in great nick, shocks are still standard so they are probably not helping Prior the front end had around 2degree neg camber and it did feel noticably better mid corner. I might take it for another wheel align and push SK's recommend 1degree neg in to it and sort the large almost 1 degree castor difference?

With regards to 20+ psi... The only difference you have to many others is your running the stock ecu. The rant about it being a bosch fuel pump etc.... you know thats crap. lol Possibly the stock rb20det ecu has 'better' ign. dwell etc settings. Quite possible the pfc's values are off a touch which causes issues. Manwhore... 20+psi with a gap of 1.1mm is the recent discussion. I'll quote from 3lit3's origional thread starting post....

http://www.willitblend.com/videos.aspx?typ...;video=pigsfeet Pickled cops feet FTW here. Fish smoothy anyone? http://www.willitblend.com/videos.aspx?typ...p;video=tilapia I guess its one way to sell your product. lol

You are the minority. Your not running an ignition amp or sorts? Any one else here able to run a 1.1mm gap with 20+psi?

It could be either an Rb25 pump or rb26 pump. Not sure. Oil pumps.. Basically all the same apart from slight differences in width for higherflow etc etc.. All the pumps gear width is much larger than the cranks engagement lug. Another option is to grab the R33 GTR crank as Nissan rectified the fault in the R33 RB25DET Series 2 and R33 GTR's. Here's a pic of a gtr crank and one with the collar. The Rb30 crank had the same small engagement lug as did the old rb20; no difference in positioning. Unfortunately it does require slight machining for fitment.

I've seen this also. Double looping the wire did the trick for me. Why? I have No idea.

That Aristo is a heavy sucker though. LCD TV's in the back of the headrests.. Top of the line.

What my point really is........... The topic of the thread is 300rwkw+. An rb26 with 300+rwkw doesn't exactly spool such a sized turbo early. Turbo comes on hard say 5000rpmish?, thats a 2000-2500rpm power band. Drop it in the lower gears and its even less. :S If its being rebuilt.. Why not. I hope you lot can see what I'm getting at. A car with a small power band is shit to drive and slow in its lower gears.

Agreed but the colars are so damn cheap these days. You'd be pushed to get a decent cim hooker for the price of the collar + fitting. I don't run a collar as it was out of my reach at the time. The ONLY pump that has the same width drive as the std cranks drive is the RB30E pump. The RB20det runs a wide crank engagement BUT the inner gear is a touch thinner and from memory it also had one extra lump than the rb25 pump I compared it to. All the other pumps, RB20, rb25, gtr, n1 etc all have a drive that is much wider than the cranks drive. The RB25 pump I have looks exactly the same as a GTR pump. I'm sure you can guess which one is the rb30 oil pump and which is the 25t pump.

I can't say I've ever tried. Might have to. lol