Cubes

There's no problem with either method of tensioner positioning. The only problem that exists is obtaining a suitable belt with the correct tooth pitch.

Yep it really does come down to the person doing the work.

That has to be the best wheel chop/swap I've seen.

Heading home on a not last but the Friday night prior I saw them setup hidden cars (sidestreets & lights off on the side of the road in front of parked cars) 3 traffic lights in a row on both sides waiting for people to drag.

Mine and Bl4ck32's build up used a set of RB30 King HP bearings. Neither of us have had issues.

There's no motor.. What motor.

No idea... :S I had a crapo battery that head a dead cell from new, that was dropping to 9v odd and was sluggish to spin the motor over when cold. But with the correct cranking time at that temp it would still start without a stumble.

Cold start my volts drop to 10v something. Even with a new battery. I currently run a 480cc thing. Spins over quickly.

Have you tried adjusting the IAC's cold start idle. There's a screw on it that allows you to apparently allow more air through when cold. Mine stops spluttering if I push in more cranking injector time at 10degree's. From memory standard is 24ms, I pushed mine up to 35 and it starts instantly. But thats on a PFC. My stock ecu did the same but obviously not remaped so I wasn't able to test. Its normal for the o2 sensor to read rich when cold. Since I put the new genuine o2 sensor in it reads 3.98v when I first start the car, then as it warms it quickly drops to 0.2-0.9 and begins cycling. It can't help doing a vac/leak test. Grab a bit of exhaust pipe, weld a top on to it, 2 t-bolt clamps, either an aircompressor attachment screwed in to the top or drill a hole and use a tyre valve, remove the afm to compressor cover pipe and place the little tool you just made on to the front of the compressors inlet. Spin the motor over to TDC and compress the system to around 10psi. Soapy water and spray it looking for bubbles. You can also use a piece of fuel hose shoved in your ear to listen around the IAC and those hard to get to bits (inlet manifold etc)

Definitely a good thing Troy. If you do the new motor simply give it a freshen up and throw the larger turbine housing on the td06.

I would think the xr6t systems will be 3.5". They run a 3" standard.

Yep I spotted flicks r32 pretty crossed up/tank slapping out of blacks round about today. heheh

Do CES or HiTech do 3.5" mufflers? I went shopping some time ago and found it impossible to track down a 'muffler' that was 3.5" here in Adelaide. So I'm going to see how the 3" goes. I'm after a large body 3.5" muffler for the rear and a largeish muffler/resonator after the cat.

I bought my 2" (comp outlet) and 2.5" tbolts from this link below on ebay. They are the same tbolt clamps that siliconintakes have. http://stores.ebay.com.au/enthaily_AUTO-PE...8QQftidZ2QQtZkm I currently use the tbolts from pirtek but they are a little big and clunky. :S The ones from siliconintakes and that ebay link are a touch more compact/neat looking which makes life a bit easier for the cross over/throttle body connection.

I've settled on a place in the US. Well priced have everything I need and postage is reasonable. otomoto was stupidly priced and JJ slug $8 per hose even if postage is combined, + they don't have everything I need so postage from 3 different company's was just silly. See how I go, fingers crossed these silicon hoses are all good. I believe they should be. http://www.siliconeintakes.com/

lol yep.. First thing I did was search for my username. Your on that list shanef. lol

R.I.P.S NZ LMAO.... I tend to definitely think its an April Fools.

Thank sky30 his pic. Keen to see how it goes.. I wish I didn't have to rip my head off to sort the oiling issues (restrictors).

There's no logic in the statement. If you think about it its actually easier shoving a small ice cream container under the oil drain prior to connecting it to the block. Much tidier than trying to catch the oil leaving the oil feed. As for one being more thorough than the other.. well... yer

Has any one considered removing their speedo and having that recallibrated? I had one done on another car some years ago for $70. Spot a cop with a lazer gun, pull over and ask what speed you were doing.

A bloke I know made a little tool up that worked no problems.

lol... probably piece of mind. I've never bothered looking etc. I've always gave it a prime though, just never looked as the turbo will always receive oil if its oil feed is connected. If its not, either is the motor.

I'm a little sceptical of the 95ron result. I've played around with different fuels (ulp, pulp, 98 and 98 eth). Mobil & BP 98 are on par, 98 eth there is a small increase in power but as for ulp and pulp. They both require much reduced ignition due to high knock levels.

A bit off topic but I always remove the oil feed, the outer water banjo then get under the car and remove the oil drain and inside banjo, I crack it with a couple of spanners and then usea ratchet ringy to remove it. Its usually recommended to connect everything up, leave the oil drain disconnected and spin the car over (not starting) and wait until you see oil coming out of the turbo's oil drain.