Cubes

I've seen a few driving around now. The arse ends really do look quite bad. The one I saw today appeared to be a base model and looked like it had a magnas arse end stuck on to it. :S

It didn't state it was blown.. And then there was this.. Which suggested the turbo was working on the car until 24psi was pushed through it. But who cares... $150, even if you have to throw a gt2871 bush core or something along those lines through it, do remember Mr. Tangles here doesn't want to throw a whole lot at it, so I believe close to 2k for a gcg may be out of the question. Ff the housings/wheels are still in good nick and only requires a freshen up bonus.

You can't get the vg30/r34 OP6 housing from garrett. So yer.. they are forever and ever out of stock.

I don't understand the concept of a vmount setup? Any crude diagrams or picture examples? What I really want though... An FMIC setup that uses the std piping route. I would like an fmic to fill the whole front bar inlet as to let as much as possible air pass through to the radiator. Currently as can be seen the end tanks block of a considerable amount of the front bar. The core i'm using is apparently a spearco bar/plate core 450x260x90 *from memory* with sligh off centrally located inlet/outlets. being center located makes it easy for the hot fmic inlet pipe to do a 2 x 90 degree turns to enter the fmic (drivers side). It runs crappy 2.25" piping.

I bought a complete VG30det turbo for $300. I'd say just the housing... maybe $100.

I saw one at holden today.. Quite a strange look.. My other half said.. "Is that an Astra". lmao.

Autobarn sell the H3C. Some no name brand things and they were expensive.

Maybe he's a v8 head and have NFI what sort of power these pieces of jap crap make... By all means 250fwkw is perfectly fine for a slightly modified RB20 and only just rb25det. 440cfm aint a great deal, its definitely not rwkw, its flywheel kw. Do a little research in to airflow and its power correlation, do your self a favour and don't trust other people to make the correct decision for you. People are stupid. Do some research yourself, ask around.

Very true... However the perplexing part of the equation is how the motor makes little more peak power, the car weighs more yet still manages to run a quicker time. I think it has a lot to do with the LS2's higher average power and how holden how geared the car. I personally feel having a shorter first gear is easier to launch/lunge off the line, run a long first gear and its all too easy to either bog down or snap it in to wheel spin off the line.

I think your figures are out.. But I could be wrong.. 440cfm is around 30.5lb/min. 30.5lb/min is around 335hp or 250kw worth of air at the flywheel, not rear wheels. So say 190rwkw. So how about twin gas convertors.... Unless they now have something more suitable since i dropped lpg on my v8 commodore that had an ecu, cams etc.. To be honest.. The cars performance after the conversion is really what made me sell the car. It didn't however see any cold start issues, backfires or poor economy. BUT performance did suck. You using the propper gas research carb won't see this massive inlet restriction as I did. The gas carby i used sucked.

Are you sure 2.5k for a gas research setup? Depending on power made it 'should' be considerably more than that as you will possibly need twin gas research carby's and twin converters.

Depending on where you buy, postage from japan is only a week. Unless I have you post express the wait is of no concern to me. $450 + postage. COD as you have no history.

The PP didn't have a price tag. lol.. yep I went searching for the thread you made mention of where to get the delvac and have taken note of it.. Delvac 1 @ $49.. Unbeatable.

Whats the best product to remove the swirl marks that can be seen on a in direct sunlight on a dark coloured car that you often see after a respray? I've used polish that appears to cover it but that soon dissapears. Its probably not noticable to others, but I see it on certian angles.

I second that.

If mxtcy's requests for this thread to be pulled down I will do so. Until then...

Very nice.. I hope you used a Meguiars Lambswool Mit. Would NEVER go back to a sponge, the mits are so easy to use and foam up really nice. I want some near origional size pictures of the Stagea and its paint work.

After lots of reading and searching I'll be going Delvac 1 next change, especially if I can get it at a decent price. The old motul 8100 5w40 has jumped up in price it appears, I used to be able to get it for $60 now its jumped to $69. On another note: Spotted Pennzoil Platinum with its little 'made in the USA' sticker at the local repco store. Interesting find.. First time I've seen it in AUS.

warpz0r, Just don't be fitting up a cheap gas system. My system years ago cost me 2.8k.

I went crazy with dielectric grease when I dropped the injectors in as I noticed a few plugs had signs of corrosion. Should prevent furthur incidents when hosing down your engine bay. Its also good for battery terminals. I always spray down the engine bay every 3months or so. Never had an issue.

Good stuff GTST.

Last Active 21st August, 2006 - 07:24 AM You didn't grab his address and what not?

Just grab a TurboZet. http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_0237/a...?popularArticle I run 12. One for every cylinder inlet and exh. Gotta run it rich with plenty of ign timing otherwise the EGT's melt the plastic.

I think were all starting to take the piss now... lmao.

I'll keep my a/c.