Cubes

You will need a resistor pack ONLY if you are running low imp injectors.

How do you expect it to start with the afm disconnected? When I had dodgy afm wiring (due to previous SAFC install) the car would simply stall and not start with the odd cough as you call it that it wanted to start.

Platnium has got his running in a VL with a PFC. There is a constant 12v feed from some where to the injectors. The ECu then triggers the injector by grounding them. Essentially its reversed as to how you are thinking. Pull a sparky out after a crank, you will know if its then getting fuel or not. AFM is wired in correctly? Check the PFC H/c's etc .. sensor sw menu to check all sensors are showing correctly.

Consider the GT3540 .63? I'm sure SAU needs a guineepig. If you have a look at garretts turbine maps you will notice the GT35r .63 and the GT30r .82 have similiar flow/pressure values. I'm not completely sure and won't be for a long time but to myself the GT35r .63 I feel is a better option over the GT3040r .82 as the larger gt35r turbine wheel provides more shaft torque to drive the compressor. I would be interested to see if any one has gone the gt35r .63 route over the gt3040r .82. I'm a little scared of lag to be honest. I wouldn't go any bigger than a gt3071r on an rb25 but that also means reduced power output.

Ours in Adelaide do. Its called Engine Degreaser/Tyre Cleaner. To wash the car I never use their brush. I always bring my bucket and mit along with my own car wash. I then only use the high pressure wash to wash the suds off.

I'm just not sure I can put up with the fuel pump sound that the BOOST98 causes. I've now got BP98 in it and the fuel pump (external Bosch) has gone silent again. Its a strange finding but most likely due to myself not throwing the car on the dyno, richening up the afr and dialing more ign. in on the usual boost level saw no noticable improvement. However simply dialing up the boost did. There was no knock on Boost98 and the car felt strong. Drop BP98 back in to it and it began detonating. So Boost98 does appear to have an advantage over the BP98. It simply needs to be tuned to suit, there is no point even trying to fiddle myself on the street without a wideband. But yer.. Not sure I could put up with the fuel pump noise from Boost98.

I too noticed Boost98 was smoother and appeared to have more part throttle acceleration, however top end suffered. Do remember to make use of this fuel the car needs to be tuned to suit as it leans the car out. I richened up mine by 1 point which should have brought it back to 12:1 and dialed in more ign until I saw det but it still just didn't feel the same in the top end as the origional setup with BP 98. So for me.. Its bp98 until Optimax Extreme heads my way. I must also mention my external bosch fuel pump in hot weather usually develops a loud buzzing fuel sucking type noise. It can only be heard on the out side of the car. Well... Since I dropped this Boost98 stuff in even in cold weather it has constantly had this noise. I used the Boost98 up, dropped in BP 98 and instantly the Bosch pump was quiet and has stayed quiet all the way home. Interesting.

Really doesn't bother me to be honest. I don't plan on running the united boost98. Optimax Extreme I believe will be fine. I will be ripping out the fuel pump (shows up there first) 3 months after I start using the fuel to ensure there is no corrosion. If not then another 3months and if not then another.

I just had a fiddle with Uniteds Boost98 E10 pulp. Not all that happy with it to be honest. knock levels are down and it allows more timing to be dialed in but it just doesn't seem to have the same top end as the usual BP 98. Maybe its going a tad lean but if that were the case I would expect it to detonate which its not. hrmm Best not too fiddle as its strange, off for a power run it goes.

Forged pistons are pretty much priced the same. $1.1k-1.4k from what I've seen. Shop around, prices vary from place to place.

Well thats just it... If it has leaned the car out and still running the usual ign. timing and not pinging then there is definitely room for improvement by dropping the afr back down to 12-12.5 and dialing in more ign. timing. All though mr. Chops is a reliable source I almost find it hard to believe that it will lean it out by a full point. I've richened it up by half a point (without wideband guestimating) and will see what ign. it will take. All though last night I gave it a little squirt after dropping boost98 in and felt a little lean spot after 5000-5500rpm. No det just had that lean feel if you know what I mean. I guess to know the lean feel takes many years of being a fiddler. lmao.

A quote from Mr. Chops this time last year. A full point is a hell of a lot.

Full throttle? I remember there was a couple of tests. One drive by at 60km/h just cruising, the other when stationary and 2/3rds of the engine rpm or something with the orificer a certian distance and angle behind the car.

But is it overkill to do so? I've owned the car longer than some and had no issues, I'd say its overkill. But if it makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside go ahead.

I've came across a few posts where 'Tuna' (Who I believe is Martin Donnan) tested BOOST98 and found it provided more power over other PULP fuels. I've just dropped $30 in an empty tank, I will check out if it affects ign. timing tomorrow. Apparently cleans your fuel system right up so its recommended to change your fuel filter after a tank of the stuff.

There's also an edit available for it that firms up gear changes and drops it in to the high 13's (0-100 ~5secs or so). Then you go a little exhaust, more boost and hold on.

R33_racer, What fuel are you running? If its only a race car the 1.06 should be ok. If not then expect it to be lazy in first and second gear.

I ran mine on the stock ecu for close to 10,000km's. Ran fine apart from the fuel cut at 6-7psi. AFR's were near perfect.

Thats fairly exxy.. I picked up my rb25 cometic mls for $150 (through the machinist) and vrs kit for $275 from nissan. I went the Rb25 hg as it works just as well and the rb26/30 cometic gasket was double the price.

RB30 isn't difficult.. Quite suprising how easy it is actually. Depends on how motivated your mechanic is. Some have been in the job too long and can't be bothered with something they haven't done before.

I've never been as carefull as you guys in my almost 5yrs and almost 150,000km's of owner ship. I head down to the local car lovers/bp self wash, pop the bonnet while its still hot, shove a dollar in and spray the engine bay with its degreaser. I then wait a few minutes, and high pressure spray it all off. I'm not carefull where I don't spray but I don't concentrate it on plugs etc.. I simply just spray it off. Never had an issue except for when my injector plug boots were cracked, they soon got replaced.

Hrmm... So the VG30 comp cover is actually larger than the r33 item. I can't say I measured an R33 comp cover but from a quick glance it appeared the same size. I'm most likely wrong about that though.

Gary, I'm curious... The R34 and VG30 turbo's I had sitting here a while back were identical in general size not looking at comp wheel machining as the R34 comp wheel was considerably larger.

My otherhalfs brother has some thing to do with Mitsi's and often brings me a new model magna to have a thrash in. Personally the AWD magna was a hoot, it handled well and I thought it was damn fun to drive. FWD in the magn'a suck, the 3.5ltr it was okish but now they have dropped the 3.8ltr in it the thing simply spins way too easy with the manual, the auto spins easy too but its easy to get off the line cleanly. Another interesting thing to note is Mitsi's have clearly not uprated their trans to handle the extra torque of the 3.8ltr as they now majorly back off throttle between gear changes in the auto. Any one who's driven a car that majorly backs off throttle between gear changes knows how horrible such a car is to drive. So in short.. compared to their previous models the Fagna 380 felt cheap, just something not right about it. One of the early VRX 3.5ltrs had a really nice tight LSD with horrid torque steer to boot. Its interesting to see how Mitsi's have played with the LSD's tightness through the models. Now its almost non-lsd as they slip in to open wheel so damn easy, as a result torque steer is considerably less.

GTS-4 dreamer... I say a nicer family tug is the Jeep SRT8 (0-100 in under 5secs) or Ford Territory Turbo.