Cubes

Mine went past the humming sound years ago. It now has a really annoying high pitch whine at certian road speed and throttle conditions.

RedDrifter, It depends on the power being made. I ran mine up on the dyno with the stock turbo when it was making ~164rwkw. Back to back with the stock box and a K&N Pod freshly oild ther was a ZERO increase in power anywhere in the rev range. And this was with the bonnet open and cool air blowing over the pod, in real life conditions the bonnet is closed and air passing through the radiator passes in to the pod. So power 'should' be down slightly due to the hotter air. The tuner said he's found (dyno results back to back) the stock r32 air box is good up to ~200rwkw then it requires either a pod or CAI in to the stock box, it can be pushed to ~400hp at the fly or 220-230rwkw but over that it really needs to be opened up. It does sound faster with the pod but.

lol I didn't even pick that up.

Yours is Ball bearing/roller bearing what ever it is.

Maybe the t25 was a bush/journal bearing? I haven't felt up a bush as of yet.

Sounds good Carlh. Can't wait to see it when she's running ... how much boost you think your going to be dialing in?

lows_13, Its the input shaft bearing, common in the rb20 box's, I have heard of it occuring in the rb25 box's also. Don't worry about it. Mine was as noisy as hell for 140,000km's until the box let go. The failure wasn't caused by the input shaft; the failure was related to fatigue caused by the 3ltr. 3rd gear stripped. It was pretty embarassing sitting in a fast food drive through, the noise was LOUD! bouncing off the brick. Security, I think the thrust bearing ppls are refering to here is the clutch thrust bearing that pushes on the clutch to disengage it.

Your not really running thick oil anyway. A 50 isn't thick. Mobil 1 5w50. Run thin first number for cold starts, it pumps and lubes up quicker reducing wear. That 20w.. yuk.

There's a bloke thats done a 2.9ltr stroker. So close enough to 3ltrs. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2396511 He's running GT-RS's, as you can see its no where near too responsive (4500rpm) but sounds quite linear and a reasonable package for the power being made.

Once you drop the rb30 in you will see that you don't need to accelerate it up on boost to leave traffic. Go for a drive in a rb30det and you will see what I mean. Even with a small turbo its VERY easy to control spool as the torque of the motor lugs the car around very well and simply doesn't require you to crack open the throttle. Whats wrong with boost 24x7 anyway? Put your foot down and its off. If it makes the power you are after whats the point of running a turbo's that flow 700-800hp worth of air when you only require 500-600. Its a lot like over clutching a car. Remember the whole idea of the rb30 is average power. If you don't want boost being made earlier and have the car acelerating off idle at a faster rate stick with the rb26.

1. Thats it... Don't be concerned with too much response as its not going to be insane supercharger style response. 2. To be honest I'm not familiar with twins on a 3ltr but I wouldn't expect you to feel a hard punch below 3500rpm for over 300rwkw. It appears you can pull roughly 600-700rpm or so off the spool of an rb25 or rb26.

Don't be concerned. Select turbo's for your power goal and go with that. 300+rwkw isn't going to get going before 3500rpm minimum anyway.

Its 'almost' a little contradictory but not quite. The initial take off may require a few more rev's but once past this the car will (as I noticed) rev up quicker and feel as if it actually has a little more off boost acceleration. I didn't notice the more rev's requirement from a standing start under normal driving conditions, it was only when launching the car. As I think I said earlier I found the gutless rb20 easier to launch with the lightened flywheel, it did require more rev's other wise it would bog but launching at the correct rpm it felt as if it was easier to control any wheel spin that occured and it simply got off the line cleaner. An R32 GTS4.... I would most definitely stick with the stock flywheel, they require an almost redline launch not to prevent bog, in this circumstance a lightened flywheel would cause launching problems as a result possibly slower 0-100 and 1/4 times. As we all know the faster we can get up to speed earlier the quicker our 1/4 will be. The old Auto VLT's are a prime example of this running mid 10's with only ~300rwkw.

Corky Bell's Maximum boost is a good starting point. http://www.themotorbookstore.com/maximum-boost.html

Reducing inertia (lightened flywheel) improves lower gear acceleration. How can this not be a benefit for street use? The negatives.. Decreased stored kinetic energy thats used when launching. As a result you may need a few more hundred rpm on board when popping that clutch. Possibly a problem for 4wd's, not likely in rwd's. And as you say the flywheel is also there to absorb firing pulses, reduce vibration harmonics, and torsional twist. Reducing this mass can reduce reliability and how smooth the engine feels. I'm all for a slightly lighter stronger molly flywheel that I HAVE noticed a seat of the pants improvement with the gutless rb20 in the lower gears. If I ran a 4.5kg flywheel it may have been a different story. My little old rb20 covered around ~110,000km's with a lightened flywheel giving a total of 178,000km's total. The motor was still in excellent condition when it came out. Too light yes its not good; slightly lighter I've noticed gains with no reliability issues. I am currently running a ceramic puk clutch on the stock flywheel. Ceramic puk clutch + std flywheel is not a good combination. The std flywheel material is too soft and chews out too quickly. I'll have no issues dropping a few kg's from the weight of a stock flywheel for a stronger molly item. The last motor held together perfectly fine and was often reved in the lower gears to ~7300rpm.

If it really were moving in and out 2mm you would hear it scraping the housings. All the std turbo's I have felt do feel like they have a tad too much movement but thats just the way they are. They do have what feels like a fair bit of movement but if measured it really isn't.

I remember I weighed it in as I believe 6-6.5kg's without clutch. But either way, go too light and you loose go nicely weighted and there's gains. This is the one I bought. http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category16_1.htm Right down the bottom, the pic does look a little different as it now runs holes in the center but none the less its essentially the same. I personally don't think I would feel comfortable running anything lighter than 5.5kg's.

Since when are we talking about WRX's. They are well known for being cops off idle when running a lightened flywheel, RB's are not.

What brand was that? As with anything you get what you pay for. Or if its a manufacturing fault... Nothing can be done about that.

lows_13, Any chance you can grab the part number for us? Any change in fuel economy?

Unfortunately both of these statements are false. Dropping off boost during shifts.... No matter what flywheel its going to drop boost between gear shifts as you shut the throttle slightly. If anything a light flywheel will help get the car accelerating again as there is less flywheel inertia to overcome. The bend/warp statement is also strange; flywheels don't bend and warp, they simply chew out. Aftermarket items such as molly have a greater resistance to being chewed out compared to the std item. I ran an aftermarket lightened molly flywheel on my old mild rb20det some years ago. Personally... There were no negatives and all positives. Off idle acceleration in low gears was noticably brisker, no increase in stallability, if anything it felt freeier accelerating from idle rpm. Gear changes were considerably easier at high rpm Rev's would drop quicker making it sounder crisper when coming off a hard second gear boot. Boost felt like it snapped on just that little bit harder. Fuel economy didn't change No noticable change in constant cruise feel when you hit a slight incline Simply.. the car did feel slightly quicker/brisker in the lower gears; high gears, it felt the same. The ONLY noticable difference is the car required a few more launch rev's. It actually made the car easier to get off the line even though the car now required a higher rpm launch (4000rpm vs ~3800rpm) Definitely worth while. I've since gone back to a std flywheel due to different motor and upon the next clutch change I WILL be dropping in a lightened flywheel.

For your future reference aftermarket (Protec & PBR) clutch master cylinders and slave cylinders can be picked up for ~$70 and ~$40 respectively. When bleeding the R32's clutch I start with the master cyl, then the center box and then the slave, then do it again. I've had a few issues bleeding mine in the past so I removed the center box and length of lines. I simply bent the metal line that runs in to the box back 180degree's in to the rubber hose that runs to the slave cylinder. Works well and actually provided better clutch feel that makes driving a ceramic clutch just that little bit easier. Some have suggested this center box and length of lines are there to help keep the clutch fluid cool. I'm not so sure; what temps does the clutch fluid really see? A half decent dot4 boiling point is ~250-270degree's, if fluid temp was really an issue they would have set up something similiar for brake lines that see much higher temps that a slave cylinder.

Poviding there is enough scope you could set the afm to HW2 IN HW2 Out. This won't manipulate the afm's signal and cause the car to run mega lean across the board. IF you were to richen it up via the safc it may give you a tad more head room but do remember as you use lesser load points the ign. values used are also higher. As a result its a receipt for detonation and a broken motor. If you do go ahead with this be sure to throw it on the dyno when summer hits to ensure its not detonating as it will be very very close to the edge of detonation. I wasn't going to mention you could do this and put the idea in to ppls heads as its a very bodgy way to squeeze a little more power out of the stock ecu. I believe this method to squeeze a little more out of their stock ecu has been covered some time ago. I also believe the bloke had rather dissapointing results. But its all setup dependant. No doubt if you were to fit up an ITC and an adj. fuel pressure some decent gains could be made. For the sake of slightly under $1000 for a pfc is it really worth the risk.

Check if its connected. Its not uncommon to find one plug dangling.

lol @ 11,000rpm. Would be interesting to hear the thing.