Cubes

Abo bob, Yer standardish turbo.. Its a VG30 Item, which is essentially an R34 turbo with the smaller RB20 compressor. So I would tend to rate it power/flow wise slightly less than a R33 RB25DET turbo.

The low comp won't really affect power that much. But it will allow you to dial in an unusual amount of ign. timing. IF the VCT is out it 'could' be bleeding off cylinder pressure?!?! I would have thought if VCT were out so much as to affect a comp ratio test it would show up with a a crap idle. BUT.. One concern is the wavy compression results. So that again brings us back to an iffy rebuild. And then the oil going everywhere?!?! WTF.

*sighs* Have another read of my post. If you are getting a fuel cut issue with the stock afm the Z32 isn't going to do sh*t IF you don't remap the ecu or run a PFC/aftermarket ecu. As I said... The SAFC. HW4 IN (Z32) Convert to HW2 OUT (RB AFM) This essentially modifies the signal back to what it would read at that airflow level with the stock afm. SO you WILL NOT get around the fuel cut issue at 16psi.

Power proof to me means to me; if you have to buy another afm why waste the money on a stock item when you can buy a z32 now and get it working with what you have; later on down the track when you throw a bigger turbo on with an ecu remap or pfc its power proofed.

Bugger 2 weeks. Bits from japan usually only take max 5 working days. I usually see them within 3-4. Which Nissan, I grab all my bits from Grand Nissan, Morphett vale

I was thinking about that report. It seems a little funny to myself as there's no mention of anti-corrosion additives etc..

SECUR1TY, similiar as to how I ran mine in. I basically drove half to full throttle every time I accelerated. Its first drive was along the sea front that has lots of small round abouts so every half a minute it was seeing lots of load.

Yes you can run a Z32 with your SAFC. There's an option that allows you to select HW4 IN HW2 OUT. Read the manual its something along those lines. All this essentially does as I stated before is modify the Z32's afm signal to read what the stock afm would have under those airflow conditions. So no the Z32 with an SAFC won't allow you to make more power due to having a higher airflow/volt ceiling. You will need a remap or pfc for that one.

The bloke who machined and assembled my RB30DET was building up another RB30DET at home for a mate of his. Its been some time but I think he was going to run a whipple type supercharger. Never heard what happened to the project.

Mine was running in to the 9's (flat lines at 10 on the dyno as thats as low as the wideband reads) and there were no signs of detonation. Sounds strange. I gather you are running new fuel? Its quite possible the old stuff went off as it is 18months old. Z32 at 4.5v. What sort of power are/were you making? Mine hits 4.3v on the standard turbo running 10-11psi.

Which is pricey when all you are doing it for is an AFM. You will then require another remap later down the track and by that time you may as well have bought a pfc. ECU remaps are only worth it if all mods are done and you will only require 1 tune. If you are doing mods in stages with multiple remaps then the pfc is the only and cheapest way to go. The absolute cheapest way around it. Grab a second hand SAFC for a couple hundred, wire it in yourself, select 4 (z32) in 2 (std rb) out (from memory) start it and drive it off. A stock afm is worth around $80-$100. You can use either an R32 or R33 S1 AFM.

Nope cannot be done. Unless you run an safc that converts the signal back to that of what the stock afm would read.

There was a jap RB26DETT that made 700awkw on twin 3037's. I forget exactly which one.

The spec sheet on the wiseco pistons stated 0.0040" (from memory) for 24+psi or race. Sorry I missed a 0 in the previous post. I went a little overkill in the clearance department but suprisingly it only ever so slightly slaps (not noticable to the untrained ear) when cold.

More importantly not why but where was the oil coming from? My Rb30det stone cold with 0.040" piston bore clearance was from memory high 150's after a 10degree night. All pots were to my suprise exactly the same with only one (cyl 5) being 1psi down. That was after ~20,000km's.

Yes bring the car up to operating temp.

1. idle car, disconnect fuel pump and the car will stall 2. remove all spark plugs 3. connect tester to each pot while cranking ~5secs each with throttle wide open. PSI in every cylinder doesn't really matter. Its the variance between that is critical. However, providing your tester is reading correctly it should be no lower than 140psi. Optimally it should be up around 160. The guages read all different. Don't be too concerned with the actual reading, just the variance.

Yer before they sold up.

I went through 1 box. Completely stuffed the first. Then shopped around, Adelaide Jap wanted $250 bucks for a friggin air box. Went to JMS. Yep $40 thanks.

Very nice... Looks quite serious. I'm all for the forced fed sound of V8's. Saw a really clean Turbo'd VYII Ute driving down southroad some weeks back, it sounded pretty damn tough, helps when the old fella drove it like it should, not flat out but briskly.

$2

R32_4door_drifting, What area are u usually cruising around in? I mean 4wding in by the looks of that ride height.

Damn thats the biggest OP6 stamp I've ever seen on a r34/vg30 housing.

hacksaw... lol I had to use an angle grinder.

GTST... Whats that old saying. Great minds think alike. I did this to mine some years ago. Standard R32 Airbox. 100mm DIA hole in the bottom of it, 100mm dia hole in to the inner bumper air intake directly under the airbox. 2 x 45degree PVC pipe angles One slips in to the other, one points slightly forward in to the airstream, the other points in to the airbox, you then trim the one that enters the airbox so that its nice and clean in the airbox. It looks stock, paint it black modify the std cai and it can't be seen.