Cubes

Yep I've racked up 40,000km's in mine.

R32matt, I too have always experienced a boost drop. The ONLY way I was able to fix it was to grab a closed loop type EBC. One that adjusts duty cycle in order to hold the set boost level at higher rpm. The manual type ebc's where you where you are only able to set a fixed duty I have found still drop boost. The one I tried was a HKS item. I then dropped a Blitz SBC-iD in to it. Selected auto mode and dialed in 15psi, it learnt the boost curve and held 15psi to redline perfectly. I then started fiddling with my wastegate to make it adjustable. I elongated the holes so I could place greater pretension on the wastegate, this also prevents the wastegate from opening as much resulting in boost holding perfectly to redline. I have since pulled off my turbotech boost controller and just running the std wastegate with its elongated bolt up holes. Works well. 3800rpm is good for an R34 turbo on an RB20. I wouldn't be complaining about that.

hehe.. Any one want an R32 ratio so that you can 'finally' accelerate quicker than those pesky R32's off the line?

I forgot to add.... I'm thinking of making the guide indepth and hopefully cover any questions as seeing the same questions time and time again is becoming a little tiring. Unfortnately my build up was done when the Jun collar was the only one that existed and it was at the time this thread was only starting.. So.. I'm running around without a crank collar.

Nooo. *clicks delete on Nozilla's Post* hehe

Bugger.. My 4.3:1 ratio wouldn't be suitable for you unless the speedo gear was also swapped. Unless your keen on swapping just the centers. If your still interested I am most definitely interested.

oh yes.... sorry buddy.. you will hear from me shortly.

http://www.allclutchandbrake.com.au/ They are only in SA though. They also recondition brake master cylinders for just over $100.

How is the new style to adjust? The old was a little touchy and some times not consistent. Mine often had the ball stick up that allowed air to easily pass it. To fix I had to pull it apart then be carefull not to adjust it too much otherwise it would get stuck up off its seat again.

Ahh I get ya...

or have a pipe run through the guts of the airbox in to the inner bumper, then have your pod sitting there. Rig up a plate to shield direct water hits and avoid big puddles. Even with my 100mm cai pointing forward I don't get water in my airbox. I would expect a slight mist but thats it.

erm... There is no wear there. Thats the engagement lug that slides in and engages with the oil pumps internal gear. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=55680 As you can see by the above pic there is a flat section in the inner section of the oil pumps inside gear, that engages with the flat section on the crank that provides drive to the oil pump so that it spins around and pumps oil.

I originally slapped together (literally) the rb30det guide without too much detail as it was my intention not to provide everything on a silver platter. I figured if one doesn't understand how (for example please don't be offended) the oil pump engages with a crank then really they simply don't need to know as their level of knowledge won't allow them to build up a motor anyway. All they really need to know is its best to use a full length crank collar and that’s it. Hand the guide to an engine builder and no doubt there will be very little if any questions. Some times the best way to understand is to grab an engine manual and rip the rb30 engine apart yourself. Next thing you know you will be thinking.. bah I could have some one do the machining on the block and assemble the sucker myself. I'm hoping Christian will get this SAU wiki sorted and I will drop the rb30det guide in to that. At that time I will also include information on whats required for the rb30 GTR/GTS4 combo.

The RB30 pumps have a small engagement gear that is roughly the same size as the small crank drive, and interesting enough they tend not to have the issues we do. I've attached a pic of the rb30 oil pump gears, AND the rb25det oil pump gears. Take note of the smaller inner gears lug that engages with the crank. RB30 small.. RB25 BIG and wide. From what I've seen the rb20 pump is a bee's dick smaller in width to the rb25det pump. It was interesting to note the rb25det pump internal gears appeared the same as a standard r32 rb26det oil pump. Its likely the only difference between the rb25det pump and the rb26dett is the pressure. I've updated the crank section of the guide a little so its easier to understand.

The oil pump has an internal gear that is wider than the lug on the crank that engages with the oil pump to drive it. By fitting the crank collar this then places even pressure across the oil pumps internal gear. RB25de oil pump from what I've seen looks the same as the rb20 pump, unsure if pressure is the same would need to look it up in the engine manual for that one.

I know the R33's ran the full drive. Unsure if the 94 32's did.

Craved, It doesn't really have anything to do with the later modem r33 gtr pumps as all the gtr, rb20 and rb25 pumps have a gear width greater than that of the drive, so they ALL benifit by running the full drive. RB20's and rb25's have been known to suffer the same fate as the gtr's. The RB30 oil pumps have an internal gear that is near the same size as of the standard drive.

All it does is provide a full length drive for the oil pump. Where as std (rb30, rb20, r33 rb25 series 1, & R32 rb26) all have a really small drive that doesn't cover the whole of the oil pumps drive. I've attached a pic that I saved when some one popped an oil pump. You can see how the standard oil pump drive is not the full width of the gear. And attached the jun oil collar.

Which is the advice we have been offering from the beginning. A pod in a stock airbox = restrictive and it won't sound like a normal pod sitting in the engine bay with nothing around it. A stock airbox with a cai and aftermarket panel filter is pretty much as good as your going to get with regards to sound, stock a stock look and performance.

There's all this talk about how restrictive a the stock airbox would be but what do you thinks going to happen when you shove a pod in a stock airbox. The pods going to be pretty damn close to the sides of the airbox resulting in restricted flow. Its a silly idea. Grab a stock box and throw a decent cai in to it, an aftermarket panel airfilter and you will be suprised how loud the stock air box is. The only difference in sound is the stock airbox sounds loud outside but not inside the car as the noise comes from the large (in my case 100mm) CAI. Where as a pod has lots of noise inside the engine bay which you can hear more so as its closer. Shoving an airbox over the pod will loose that sitting in the open pod sound.

The joys of a performance vehicle that cops a hiding.

I've seen with my own eye's ~4.5years ago when mine was making 164rwkw. Myself I didn't believe Tim as my old 5ltr VS Commodore saw decent gains by opening up the inlet, turbo is a whole different kettle of fish. They don't see the power losses as N/A's do when an inlet restriction is placed on them. An upgrade for what? Sound or performance. If you bought Zoom mag back then or even fairly recently it was Tim Possingham (prior owner of RPM performance and founder of horsepowerinabox) who did the back to back for myself, as I mentioned earlier he found through back to back dyno runs the limit of the stock box with stock cai was around 400hp at the fly.

Nice... Should be interesting to see it next cruise.

Not possible.

Spotted 2 young blokes in their R32 yelling at some lady the lights on Marion road.... I believe they said HOE.