Cubes

is that in reply to my post? I was talking about the slide turbo.

Mine with the plugs in was pretty difficult to spin over by hand.. But you could feel it was free until one of the pistons came up on its compression stroke. The RB20 that came out all though it still had ~145psi in all cylinders was very very free even on its compression stroke.

Maybe your driving it harder or have a small ic/ic piping leak. I noticed no difference in fuel economy.

Battery not dead? The crank measured? I haven't built a motor myself but I was under the impression you needed some plasti guage the rods and the crank to determine what size bearings to be used.

Which is how mine is setup. I use the stock IC piping within the engine bay, pop the hood and it looks stock.

Its not the quality its the nature of the bush setup. Garret journal/bush have exactly the same issues if shut down while spinning hard. i.e an accident. But saying that I've seen a turbo from japan that was BB and came off a car that was in an accident. The bearings were stuffed.

LTHLRB, Your 3500rpm spool target will depend upon which housing you go. VG30/R34 or the R33 size. R33 size you may get close but the VG30/R34 you won't see it until close to 4k.

Yep spend all your $$ now on support mods and bolt ons... Then when the motor gets noticably tired you have an excuse (for the missus) to get it rebuilt. Rebuild it now and then try to justify support mods after.. Doesn't always go down too well.

I do all local driving. ZERO highway. Driven correctly the 3ltr returns the same fuel consumption as the rb20det. R33's for what ever reason tend to have considerably worse fuel economy compared to the little old r32's. Maybe its the greater weight, maybe its the vct or something who knows.

Bah.. get some life out of it.. Wait until you start smelling it when you drive. lmao.

Which ever way you go do be sure to update the forums with your results. Many fit up turbo's and then dissapear not sharing with everyone.

I would say so... I personally don't own one so I really can't comment. But if it were the KKR or Slide ... I would choose the Slide. Then if I was willing to spend a little more I would look at the GCG or possibly a garrett item if a few modifications to ic piping didn't bother me.

Valve springs Sold.

From what I've heard the KKR480 turbo is rather laggy, hell even the dyno sheet on their web site looks laggy.

If thats the money you are looking to spend look at a turbo from slide. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=131723&hl= and his online store. http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=25

Check out your inj. boots and make sure there not cracked. If so grab a tube of dialectic grease and cover the contacts inside the plug. This will prevent water running down the crack and corroding the connection. A few of mine had done this, the main reason I decided to go a new set of plugs.

I know mines a prehistoric R32 but mine would start and run ok with the water temp sensor disconnected. I ran in to fuel economy problems a while back. All of a sudden dropped from mid to high 400's to 350km's per tank almost overnight. Replaced o2 sensor with new item, had already replaced water temp sensors and they were reading fine on the pfc h/c. I replaced injectors and bang.. fuel economy was back. Driving style also has a little to do with economy. With mine at least it makes a considerable difference. If I change up a shade over 2000rpm I get pretty damn close to 500km's per tank. If I stretch out the gears a little to 3000rpm with light throttle fuel economy hangs around the low 400's. The odd boot here or there doesn't appear to make a noticable difference but if always up on boost and booting it it does and I only just scrap in at 400km's per tank (~50-52litres). The RB20DET however, didn't seem to matter how I drove it, always returned 450-470km's per tank. I feel like a broken record. I've said that so so many times.

Nothing stopping us grabbing a little bit of plastic and strapping it to the chassis so it hits the spoke of the wheels.

Which is why with any performance car that is tuned for near max power you should have a power run done every so often to check up on afr's. I know of some that get one done every service.

Maybe on a 4ltr. Not as much exh gas needs to be bypassed to keep boost under control on the 2.5 and 3ltrs. Your results prove this.

How does internal gate reduce response? dangerman4's gt35r appears to be doing quite well on his rb25 with an auto sitting behind it. Spools damn well, considerably better than I expected. We saw 5psi at 3000rpm and its all in by 4200rpm!! But yes the GT30 is the limit for the RB20 I feel.. GT35r is simply too big.

3lit3 32, They also have the .63, .82 internal gate now also. Have a look through the thread, disco posted a few pics of the .82 and skinny .63 internal gate gt35r turbine housings. He grabbed the pics from GCG. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=134033&hl= GT35r .63 and the .63 int wastegate GT35R .82 and the .82 int wastegate Unsure if the int gate gt30's turbine housings from 'garrett' are floating around yet or not.

Have a look at the cam belt cover. There will be a little lump in the front of the inlet cam. This means it has vct, if its flat its non-vct. In otherwords if the plenum and head look identical to an R32 RB20DET, its an R32 RB25DE. The R33 heads and plenum look noticably different to that of the R32's. FYI... All R32 RB25DE heads are non-VCT and ALL R33 RB25DE heads are VCT. The place I bought my R32 RB25DE head sold it to me as an R33 RB25DE head but its not. Definitely get some springs in to the head if its the N/A head as you don't want to be experiencing a flat top end and scratching your head why its not making much more power than it should when you dial the boost in. <looks at sig>

Depends what t3 your talking.. GT35R internal? Yes we know. See here. + lots of pics http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=134033&hl=

Express post?