Cubes

What was there setup with regards to inlet and exhaust manifolds? Cams? It may just be a different dyno reading? Was it an auto? Exhaust? I forget what yours is.. 3.5" really is a must for over 300rwkw. A couple of years ago I knew a bloke interstate running around with a GT35r .82 strapped to the side of his RB30DET. He was making ~300rwkw on 18psi. Stock exh. manifold, std plenum, 256duration cams, 5speed. He dropped on a 6boost looking high mount exh. manifold and picked up 30rwkw on the same boost. What does John think? Its a little low in power compared to what others he has tuned or?

Mine was fine on 16psi for quite some time. Still is fine now; it has a little to do with luck of the draw, and how well the motor has been tuned with regards to NO detonation, mixtures are not lean and most importantly how hard its driven.

They sure are when you come in second and make more power than any other skyline on the day.

18-19degree's really is pretty damn good considering the amount of boost, type of fuel, stock cams, stock inlet and exh. manifold. So really you are doing well... I'm assuming the motor has been setup to run an 8:1 comp ratio? Here's a little article on tuning turbocharged vehicles from innovative (the wideband people) http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/rich.php What AFM are you looking at?

Results from the CA will differ from the results on the RB. Do you have any RB results. Apples with Apples. The slide turbos are comparable to yours. They run a VG30/R34 highflow that makes up around the power you are on the CA without the need for an external wastegate.

It really depends what you define as better. If you enjoy railing around corners and punching it out of corners then yes the manual will be better. If you no longer feel the need to punch it through corners but would rather have something as quick as possible and as tractable as possible to the speed limit then the auto is the only answer. I've had the car for almost 5years now and done plenty of punching out of corners. Its time for a change; especially as I have the family thing going now also. As you see its subjective.

bugger.. mine did this today.. Time to swap tps's to see if it fix's the problem.

got dyno sheet?

LMAO.. oh........... anyone.

Really... Underbonnet boost controllers are legal? What is classified as an underbonnet boost controller? MBC (bleeder etc) only as an elec boost controller would be in cabin. Some time ago when I rang regency I did ask about boost controllers and they said a simple no, they alter emissions. But things may have changed.

same as else where.. Illegal.

lmao.. yes I was in 2 minds but after speaking to Darren (s3_girl) who also went from manual to auto and then driving home and remembering dangerman4's auto I thought bugger it. If I can do it for next to nothing why not; realistically I'm going to be up around 2k to drop an RB25DET manual gearbox in with its required tail shaft mods, cross member etc. The stock box just isn't going to handle the power its going to be pushing out at the end of the year. The PowerFC's work fine with the 'dumb' R32 and R33 auto's. The auto's are nothing special with regards to their ecu requirements. There's a number of people running around with PFC's and Auto's. In Adelaide I know of 2; 4door sleeper & dangerman4 (who's pushing 317rwkw though his stock auto) As I said earlier... shift kit to prevent any flaring and they are fine. and auto's boaring.... not when you can give it one big tromp and have it click in to top gear smoking the rears almost on the spot. Or how quick and consistent they can scrabble off the line. Can't do that in a manual. Getting power to the ground is much easier and controllable. Sure not as 'responsive' leaving corners etc but I've never railed around corners anyway... Which is why I've never thrown lowered hard suspension on the car. Maybe one of you auto owners should take a little incar vid to show others what all the fus is about. Stock turbo, yea it may be boaring but once the cars making some decent power the auto's become much more interesting.

Nice find... backs up my findings.. I notice when turning the ignition on the boost guage flicks to the lower edge of the 0 line. So it would explain why my guage was reading a tad high.

Mine with an exhaust saw 11psi. I know of one running a 3.5" exhaust no cat that saw 12psi. The +7mmg or what ever it is is ~14-15psi when I had mine on the dyno. Sitting just under the little + sign was ~11psi.

<notices S3_Girl is watching...>

Hey fancy seeing you in these neck of the woods. AM-Performance is about to drop an aftermarket plenum on his within the next week or two. Sky30 pushed 312rwkw through his r32 rb25de head running the stock exh. manifold and stock inlet manifold/plenum. Thats the highest I know of on the R32 RB20/25 style plenum.

GeeTR, The Wolf runs batch firing, its not able to run sequential injection due to the lack of drivers.

lol... Andrew, The Auto VLT box's are simply crap, I did question MV Auto's about them and they said to steer clear and don't waste your time with them. The Skyline box's are considerably better and hold 300rwkw all day everyday, they begin to have issues up around 350rwkw. They do however require a stage 1 shift kit to prevent flares etc on shifts when running a PFC. I did ask about rebuilding it and they said... "Consider it once you start nudging 350rwkw and if you are going to be throwing slicks behind it" The R32 auto box's are apparently the same with a different convertor and something else but 'apparently' according to MV's just as tough. Another Darren (forget his SAU Name many you know) who is good mates with shaun pushes 373rwkw through his R33 Rb25DET box behind an RB30ET with large cams, GT42 turbo and makes good power to 6900rpm. His auto has been toughened up a little but he too said the same thing... Don't touch the VLT auto box's. The Auto VLT box's have issues with a mere 13psi through the std turbo. They begin slipping and flaring on gear changes etc. Consider it an experiment, if I like I will stay, if not I will drop a manual back in. From the little spin dangerman4 took me on I was rather impressed. The turbo loves the auto, it never actually felt laggy and this was a .82 GT35R on an RB25 which by all means should feel as laggy as hell. What was it Darren (dangerman4), 5psi by 3000rpm and 26psi by 4200rpm? ahh well... I've had both auto's and manuals in all my previous cars just to see.. This is no different. Shall be interesting but.. Andrew, I'll take u for a spin once its in.

lmao.. You clearly haven't been in a decent auto. Manual's are fine for low power and little rb20's but for higher powered rb25's and rb30's with big turbo's they are simply awesome.

Its quite possible the exh. wheel let go as a result killing the turbo's bearings (unbalanced) causing the comp. wheel to slam in to the comp. housing and breaking. Then it goes through your motor. Similiar happens when the comp wheel is metal apart from instead of having the plastic go through your motor you have shavings of metal.

Hi ppls, I've been toying with the idea of an auto for quite some time now and decided to bite the bullet. I've got a second hand wrecker R32 RB20DET 5speed in the car that has done around 15,000km's. Its recently had new oil dropped in it (castrol synthetic), shifts nice and there's no input shaft bearing noise. So it appears to be a tidy box with no leaks. It hasn't had a hard time behind the rb30det as its valve floating and is still up around the 176rwkw mark on standard boost. Not so long ago I replaced both the clutch master and slave cylinder. So any of you R32 owners willing to basically do a swap of the running gear? Pedals, console, gearbox, flywheel, tail shaft (if required) etc.... Let me know if your interested... More than welcome to test drive the box before the swap as I would expect the same in return. If not expect to see me flogging off an rb20det gearbox and the other bits in the near future. Auto + MV Auto's stage 1 shift kit + possibly in the future when required 2800rpm stall converter (that retains lock up) here I come.

1. Because its a hybrid motor. Better designed head that allows you to get away with a little more static comp. 2. Its all in the tuning. Simply throw a stock rb30et ecu on an rb30e that has a turbo bolted on to the side of it and try to push 14psi through it and it will almost certainly detonate. So tuning tuning tuning.

Agree'd.... batch firing.

Was a good day. Good to put a few names to faces. The lowest power reading for the day was when everyone left. Little $500 1.8ltr gemini owned by Darren, 38rwkw, a little ign timing and got it up over 40rwkw ripped the aircleaner off and up to ~45rwkw.

Sava's are slippery slidy. Madaz.. Pm me your xfire account name as I created another account. The other stopped working.