
Cubes
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Everything posted by Cubes
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I was sure it was a misunderstanding which is why I explained myself a little further. Even with fast solenoids and short hoses there is still going to be a bee's dick delay; which is where the gain value comes in to it. An attempt; as you know to absorb the delay without noticeably smoothing of the boost curves elbow. A nice sharp boost curve induces that wheel spin (which can be a bad thing) and that oh so lovely snap in the back we all love. My fiddling found a gain value that was tweaked as close as possible before spiking occurred had a nice sharp smack in the back when boost came on as one loaded the car up from low rpm. A gain value that was low or not tweaked had a noticeably but not by bugger all smoother feel to the boost snap. I guess really its all about the driving experience; I'd be very surprised if it made any difference to acceleration performance.
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Oh Gary Gary Gary.. A boost controller MUST start feeding a little pressure to the wastegate before the target boost pressure is reached. This is the gain value. If it were to be closed until its reached the target boost then slams open it will spike. There's no if's, no buts. The gain value is to compensate for the slight delay in the wastegate slamming open. You know this.....
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Maximum response per gear not less. Its not so much an issue with a stock turbo'd car. Although not considered high powered lol I experienced issues when running the lazy vg30det turbo on my old rb20det. I was running a I was running a Blitz SBC-ID in Auto mode; learning was done in 4th gear as it should. First gear just wasn't snappy and didn't reach the boost target; raising the gain value had first gear boost build better not to mention it also reached the boost target but caused issues in the higher gears. I could see an application for the AVCR in this instance.
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The New Soft Brake Pedal Thread.
Cubes replied to Abo Bob's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Only a street pad... GP2 I believe they were. They have slightly better grab than the Ultimates I used to run but unfortunately they throw out just as much dust. Unsure how they cope with high speed and lots of cornering as I don't really go that hard; a brisk drive through the hills they are perfectly fine with no signs of fade, thats all that matters. -
The New Soft Brake Pedal Thread.
Cubes replied to Abo Bob's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
My breaks feel quite awesome now that I'm running decent pads. At the very start of the pedal travel it feels light, however with decent pads its very grabby in this area on light breaking, very noticably in car parks etc. After the light pedal travel area the pedal goes hard; its almost like on and off, light then hard; at this point the car is breaking rather hard. I used to run fairly hard crappy pads that felt dead and made the feel pedal hard with no grab that made the car feel as if it was difficult to pull up; I had to really stomp on the brakes to lock the wheels. Now that I'm running Ferodo pads I find myself easily over braking; I just can't seem to get used to how touchy the brakes are, especially as mentioned above in car parks. I have yet to drive a new car that has a better pedal feel than my old R32. The closest pedal feel to mine is the 100series V8 Landcruiser. Interestingly the pedal travel feel is similiar, its got a light grabby area at the top that then goes harder, the exception is with the r32 the hard area is harder but it also has a hell of a lot more grab. So my advice; try different pads, pads make a huge difference to pedal feel. EDIT: You already have. -
wow 5am... Our little boy is a sleeperinera.. 9am boy.
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Check the chassis rails for damage. They are pretty reliable cars, not that much really goes wrong with them apart from the usual servicing and wear/tear bits and pieces.
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The ignitor box was my thought also but don't the S2's run ignitor on coils? If so then nath has recently dropped in a set of new splitfires so they have been replaced yes? Not really up to speed with the S2's.
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The PFC boost kit is good if you want just a cheap boost kit that holds boost well. For a higher powered car where you want maximum response the avcr is a better bet as you are able to fiddle with individual gear gain values etc.
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Some do. Some are nothing but a glorified manual boost controller. i.e simply set a gain and a duty cycle. The better EBC's 'learn' what duty cycle is required in order to hold a given boost pressure. (AVCR, PFC EBC, Blitz SBC-id, Greedy Profec EO-1 and a few others) The Jaycar boost controller allows you to manually tune the duty cycle through various rpm points; which can be very handy depending on what your goals are.
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Definitely not an easy one nath. When it stuggles to idle whats the gut feeling? Fuel or ignition?
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Braided Oil And New Water Lines For Rb25 High Flow (sliding)
Cubes replied to ix9's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Strich9, I know where your coming from. That inside banjo bolt are a pain in the arse. I've removed the turbo on mine a total of 6 times. I have got it down pat now though so its not so bad. For the cost of braided lines..... I'm not sure its worth it. Remove the top oil first then bend it up slightly, then remove the inside banjo and its not too stressfull. If its tight don't forget to grab a trusty open ender and ring spanner that you can slip in to each other to give you some decent leverage. -
tx3_90, I've written the number plate down. Have you heard back from the police yet?
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lol not that young. I'm 26. Also have a baby seat in the back of the line. -------------- DC_GTST, I thought it was you that had previously mentioned it. In the regency thread I think it was.
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Oil change next week.. I'll be grabbing some Mobil Delvac 1 5w40 for $50
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The RB20DET valve springs are no upgrade, they are what you have now. Just the RB25de valves are larger so they need thougher valve springs. 1.2mm headgasket will lower compression.. 1mm headgasket is standard 0.040". To work out the comp ratio correctly you need to make measurements, i.e rip the motor apart.
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Try to find an aftermarket headgasket thats thinner than 0.040". Then there's the issue of high rpm and the pistons kissing the head. You might get away with a 0.010" thinner headgasket but its not going to raise the compression a great deal.
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No can do.. Grab your self a set of aftermarket pistons that suit the comp ratio you are after. Either that or be happy with a few more $$ in your pocket and an 8.2:1 comp ratio. ---------- McStocky... Very nice indeed. Does it drive?
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Either that or its called oldies driving the car back from regency.
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High Idle + Using More Fuel...*cleaned Aac But No Fix**
Cubes replied to Simon-S14's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Without getting technical the TPS out of adjustment is easy to test also. Drive in third gear up to around 3000rpm then jump off the throttle. If it cuts fuel as it should then the TPS is fine. If it blups (blupblupblup on decel) and feels as if the car isn't engine braking then its out of adjustment. -
lol yes very true one would be very very carefull.. If they did introduce such a thing here (as stated in the paper) my only concern would be under what circumstances would they enforce such a drastic measure? Surely they could only do such a thing if a police officer them selves saw you hooning. A report from the public in my book simply would not cut it.
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lol I think you missed my point. On a similiar note to the threads discussion.. See in the sunday mail how oversea's on your second strike you have your car taken and crushed. I think its a little out of hand. Raise the license age to 18 and provide them with advanced driver training. Advanced driver training will teach the young drivers exactly how easy it is to loose control not to mention how dangerous it is. Oh and provide frigin drag strips etc so it can be taken off the streets.
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High Idle + Using More Fuel...*cleaned Aac But No Fix**
Cubes replied to Simon-S14's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
You ignored Jasont82's suggestion. IAC valve. Under the throttle body. To test; Block off the hose that runs to it. If idle settles down thats your issue. -
I'd say start again. Rip out the radiator, harmonic balancer and cam belt covers. Throw it on to TDC and check the cam timing is all lined up. By leaving the harmonic balancer on and trying to line everything up its possible for the belt to be slightly off the lower drive gear (simply because there's no tension on it and you can't see it), as a result when you spin the motor over it jumps a tooth or two and the cam timing is thrown out. If you remember back to when you first got the motor in the car, I checked and reset (as it was out a tooth) the cam timing; I pulled off the balancer as it wasn't worth the hassle of the lower drive gear being out a tooth or two.
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Blue Dynamite, And the reason the old timer was able to get your mates number plate? Because the car was so damn slow getting away. Just try to grab a number plate from even a v6 commodore as it throws a u-turn and lights up its single wheeler. By the time you've finished looking and then think I'll grab his number plate the cars long gone.