Cubes

All my injectors have the same nice solid click and loudness. When placing the screw driver else where do you hear a different click or none? A lifter sounds different to an injector.

How trust worthy is this mechanic? Is he a well known performance shop? Grab a second opinion.. It could save you quite a bit of money. Chances are if you are getting oil in the water then you will also get water in the oil as when you shut the car down the cooling system pressurises while the oil is un-pressurised In the past with cracked heads on VL's I usually see water in the oil up in the pvc valve before I see water in the oil, when left long enough you then see the white crap (water) under the oil filler cap.

Good stuff Troy.. Can't wait to see the results of 1.5 + drag radials...... or the lack of.. heheh Joke... lol... I'm sure it will do very well.

Check the solanoid is still working correctly. I've seen one that was fine one day and dead the next. Nath... I have a pretty good feel with Skylines as I've been fiddling with them for 5 years. Besides.. You have misinterpreted SK's posts. Disregarding SK's 'Try leaving the bonnet open between runs, heat soak is a problem.' post because as you say it also happens on the street. So your issue is not a heat soak from thrashing problem. After that SK has pretty much said what I have... There's an issue, trouble shoot, find and fix it. hence his comments on checking fuel pressure, skyline disease etc.. Say what skyline disease............. age is whats common here. Exactly what SK has said. So it cannot be compared to the ls1 piston problem as that was at fault from manufacture. If it were... I'm sure Nissan would have promptly recalled and fixed the problem.

Not common to crack the DOHC heads. Most likely a headgasket. Are you sure its oil and not just sludge build up from the lack of coolant changes. When I first bought mine close to 5yrs ago, cleaned radiator, a block and heater core flush by myself with good new coolant never got rid of it. Dropped a new motor in it and the sludge crap was still there. Gave it a power flush and it came good. There must of been a heap of sludge in the heater core that my garden hose couldn't get out.

Replacing the motor probably wont even do it. I had an issue where the car would all of a sudden idle a little rough and feel as if it was bogging on low rev's. Give it a boot full and it was ok.. Just partial throttle and idle. Then just as it came it would go. Its been like this for years but hasn't bothered me until now. With the stock ecu idle would drop low; since I installed the pfc in the car it holds a steady idle even when its playing up. 2 days ago its now always doing the rough idle and bogging partial throttle thing giving since 2 days ago. Checking the new O2 sensor it tells me its going lean on idle and partial throttle its causing a rough idle and lean missfire when cruising. It also surges when taking off in first if you try to take of a little briskly until rev's get up over 2k. The o2 sensor now will not cycle until it hits 3000rpm, upuntil then it simply flat lines or sways between 0v and 0.2v. and.. here's what I've replaced over time. ECU (replaced with pfc) ECU/Dash water temp sensor Injectors (near new R34 GTR items that flowed 100% with no leaks) AFM (With a bran spankin new Z32/Wiring checked) Ran a direct feed feed from battery to fuel pump REPLACED THE WHOLE motor. Not that this would be expected to fix anything anyway. Coil Ignitor TPS, IAC, AAC Genuine O2 Sensor Fuel pumps are AOK (std intank as a lift for the bosch external) All sensors on the PFC screen are reading correctly. All I have left now are coils and crank angle sensor. So... don't bother replacing the motor it won't do ****. Wiring loom... In my case most likely.

I don't believe its a manufacturers fault or all as common as stated. I believe its a part that has gone dicky due to age (these cars are getting old) and is affected by the heat. Find the part replace it and all will be sweet again.

Are you sure? Back in the good old VL days with no IC the cool nights made a hell of a difference.

Do plod through the rb25 dyno thread.... There will be some one in there running a gt3071r. I know of one but it was behind an auto and had an OP6 turbine housing machined up for it.

Nice another option.. I will be sure to check those out. Hows the fit NIB, factory like or do they require cutting and fab?

My old RB20t injectors were pretty loud.. Shove the screw driver on to the body of the injector and see if the tick is the same.

GeeTR, When I had the thermo's on it was wonderfully quiet. You don't realise how much noise the std fan makes until its gone. I swear the car did feel a little more responsive ESPECIALLY in hot weather. I have plans to throw thermo's back on but it will be some form of el factory thermo's.

Bugger.. Unfortunately, by the looks of it your interior that is what got you pinched. I've picked myself up a small extension from nengun that allows me to easily plug in and out the pfc h/c when needed. No doubt it has saved my arse once.

3ltr you don't notice it off idle/boost but still feel it if you want to bring it up on boost; still feels just that little bit lazier. The best part is the a/c I can't even feel. I remember the old rb20 in hot weather with the a/c. I used to have to rev the thing on and slip the clutch (dipping it in slightly as rev'd dropped) to get it off the line just to keep up with traffic.. Felt like it was hard work just to get it off the line. I agree; no matter what it should just start, hot or cold. If it doesn't it has issues. Its not the ecu remembering the prior day (skyline ecu's are not this smart, they are dumb 1990 ecu's) or fuel evaporating in the fuel line.

Is that a think or a know from a physics point of view? Just curious so I know if I have to do a little research in my spare time or not. ----------------- Hotter air is thinner air. A turbo must work/spin harder to produce the given boost level; boost build will appear lazy and outlet temps will be higher due to lesser turbo efficiency. Remember its not just the air compression that throws heat in to the air; its also the compressors efficiency. Notice that lazy turbo on those hot 35degree days. No matter what its always best to have the absolute lowest inlet (pod) temperature, it not only slows the heat soak of your fmic but allows the turbo to do its job easier resulting in a lower outlet temp. Sure one may say that the larger the temperature difference the greater the heat transfer efficiency. I don't see this as a valid argument for thinking its ok to have higher turbo inlet as a result outlet temperatures. No matter what, the air entering your motor is ALWAYS going to be hotter; as a result thinner with a greater ability to aid that nasty detonation and make less power. But hell slap it on a DD Dyno and shove an IT sensor to bump that figure up so its inline with a car that runs a good cai sucking air thats 20degree's cooler.

As you have the turbo's wastegate boost feed after the supercharger wouldn't this essentially cause the turbo to lag as the supercharger will be making boost; IF the supercharger makes enough boost to hold the turbo's wastegate open then the turbo man never really get up on boost? Is that right? Have you tried taking the turbo wastegate boost feed from the compressor cover or at least the pipe that runs from the turbo to the supercharger?

Well thats just it, I haven't seen one... But I am greedy.. You are pretty damn close to the same power I had with the rb20det turbo at 2400rpm but with a lot more top end. I'm certian the issue is with cam timing as you have just disabled the vct and not adjusted the cam timing to suit yes? I'm curious as to how its all setup.. I'm sure youve mentioned it before. Where is the turbo's wastegate getting its boost reading from?

Yep, the post was in reply to..

The issue with hot air isn't the turbo heating its the air passing through the radiator. A 30degree day... The air exiting the radiator is hot enough to feel as if its burning your hand. Just out of school and working at the end of a glass furnace we saw air temps of 70degree's... The air I felt out of the radiator on a 30degree day felt pretty damn close to the furnace air. Mad082... I know what you are saying.. But I have NFI.

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Well this is going to be one of those niggly problems thats difficult to get to the bottom of. I had a fiddle with it today and and its almost normal. Idle is now fine but partial throttle cruise goes lean to the point where the o2 sensor can't pull it back in; slight throttle to accelerate the car has the o2 sensor flicking againl or with the feedback off has the sensor reading from 0-0.04v to the usual 0.9v. I've disconnected the external pump and had the stock pump blowing through the disconnected external. The fuel pump appears to still be working fine as there was no difference with the external connected or not.

People don't seem to have issues with boost creep with the skyline turbo's.

2gceffy, Sounds a little like the issue that I've had. Mines been on and off for the past 3-4years; since yesterday its now doing all the time. Almst everything over a period of time has been changed; new z32 afm; r34 gtr injectors from a low km motor that were flow tested recently; it now runs a powerfc; new motor is in. The only thing that hasn't been touched is the fuel pumps. A standard old stock pump that ran out of legs at 150rwkw (over 135,000km's ago mind u) thats being used as a lift pump for the bosh external pump thats 135,000km's old and ~4.5yrs. Fingers crossed my issue is the fuel pump

One answer... No. If you run the turbo off a 300zx you will have to change dump pipes etc. If you were to run a turbo off the later model VG30DET's from the Leopars/Cima's etc then you don't have to change anything; but the turbo's are not matched with 'performance' in mind. The run nothing more than an RB20DET turbo's guts with larger turbine and comp housings to make it lazier so that it gives smooth progressive power for their cruisers.. The by far best T3 Nissan turbo is the R34 GTT Turbo, it runs the larger OP6 turbine housing as the VG30DET turbo does but a nice chunky compressor wheel. Not a piss fart RB20det compressor wheel like the VG30det turbo does. And no... its not worth the upgrade for 10rwkw. Highflow the turbo; GCG if you want maximum response with good power, the slide turbo if you want to save a few $$ or see if you can track down a nice little HKS GT2530.

People do tend to push a bee's dick more out of them than the GCG highflows.... But they do cost a little more to get on the car. No packages are available that I know of... Simply buy the turbo; suitable water/oil lines bolt it on and then take it to an exh. shop to have a dump pipe made up. Or.. Machine up your Skyline turbine housing to suit; by this time the machining costs even out with the costs of a new dump pipe. I know what I'd rather; a new dump pipe with the correct unmolested turbine housing.