Cubes

Are you running a Pod Jazza? Would most likely explain the temps, used air from the radiator was probably being passing over; either that or the temp sensor was slightly placed incorrect. With my CAI I see temps pretty much spot on the AT temp. Within a degree or two.

Photoshoot sounds like a good idea. I'd be in.

LMAO... yer I guess. I'd better explain it a bit better though. With the mesh removed; boosting hard with say half throttle then backing off enough but still on the throttle so the BOV lets go; at this point the car would have a single surge jerk type feel. With the mesh there; it simply doesn't happen. I usually had the jerk/surge when driving up a hill and partially backing off (flagstaff hill for example). Removing the mesh I noticed ZERO difference in fuel economy (consistent 470km's to ~50litres). Just that little annoyance when coming off the throttle. I siliconed the mesh back in, felt much nicer.

Frost.. Here's mine with similiar mods except stock intercooler and a little fpr bleeder to lean out the mixtures a tad. It was running 12.5psi with a bleeder. 12.5psi was the most it would hold with the bleeder. By leaning out the mixtures it picked up 10rwkw. Yes it was done in third for what ever reason. Later when I had the FMIC fitted I had it run both in third and fourth and fourth made 4rwkw more power, not saying this dyno run would have done the same as initially on the same boost with only an fmic and in fourth gear it made 155rwkw.

The biggest annoyance I found was the surge and overfueling pops that followed jumping off the throttle. It appears the mesh also helps prevent the air that is dumped out of the bov from passing the afm in reverse.

Its been done here in Adelaide before. I believe the bloke made a thread on it. Froggy or someone.. The car was at boostworx but they had issues with the greedy emange so he took it else where; unsure if he ever got it running right. You have to run the VL turbo pistons to achieve a reasonable comp as the combustion chamber of the 20t head is quite small. The calc as to what the compression would be is in the froggy thread thats in the sa section.

In gear would be easy to do as the ecu knows when your in neutral. So not difficult to throw a relay on to it. I must say I'd probably use it on those hot days if I could get the no neutral no start setup. Stand in the shops start the car with the a/c on, pay for goods and walk out, slap the bubs in to a nice cool car.

Its around the mark.. even if it were reading 15rwkw high.. it would be what I would expect for mods boost turbo and stock ecu. So its not like its way way out. We must also remember the R32's stock ecu doesn't hit R&R like the R33 ecu's so they can be pretty much pushed until they hit fuel cut or most generally run out of fuel. Generally down here the R32's with r33 turbo's on 14psi tend to make around 190rwkw the injectors hit 100% duty. Its known for the R34 turbo's to net approx another 10rwkw over the R33 turbo on the same boost. So considering your afr's and boost your running.... I'd say it is reading a touch high. The attached dyno sheet was running a new pump, tuned ecu with injectors at 100% duty. Not to mention your almost making the same power as an R34 running the same boost. Now logic tells us the rb20det head flows considerably worse than the r34 head so you will need more boost to get near the same power figure. My self.. simply bolting the same turbo etc on to an rb25 head I made similiar power on 5psi less boost. Where does the R34 turbo make 12psi on the rb20? Your run does appear to lack a little down low compared to the attached R32 running a R33 turbo so I'd assume its a tad more laggy than the one shown. In car it felt as if it came on hard around 4000rpm but was making decent boost from 3000rpm.

I vote to throw another cheap rb20 in. Strip the bits off yours than you can. erm.. that would be only the oil pump, maybe the cams if they are not damaged. Rip the cams out, be sure to follow the engine manual as how to do it.. What would you want for them? I'll send them off to get tested to make sure they are straight, I have a use for them.

May be ok for an N/A as any reduction in inlet is hp. On turbo .... Its not the case. I found a few drivability issues with the mes removed.

ahh bugger that. We only have semester based exams.

With regards to insurance you'll find the majority actually require an alarm that autoarm's and in some silly cases some that autolock. I've disabled the autolock function of mine as I locked my self out a couple of times.

Yep 7000rpm limiter, and the power curve doesn't ease up either, still a few more hundred rpm left in it no doubt.

Looks like he's wearing leather, the hat + the body movements.. I think thats what gives it the gay look. EDIT: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masaki_Sumitani He apparently pretends to be homosexual for comedy. But isn't gay...... I guess it must be the cultural differences or something.

yep 100% city traffic driving makes a huge difference to economy. No problems with the vid I know where your coming from as I'm nearing uni exams also. Always hectic as you approach week 9+

lol.

Nozilla.... Your avtar really disturbs me. :S Remindes me of those late night tv adds about gay matchmaker.

Interesting... whats the cause? Not like its making excessive power or running excessive boost.

lol yep.. at the moment its making around 100rwkw at 2000rpm, 2500rpm 130rwkw and 3000rpm 164rwkw. light throttle cruising.. How do you find the highstall? does it still feel fairly tight? Fuel economy any changes? I've never had a high stall so when I hear high stall i think of the oldschool v8's u see cruising around that when taking off even on light throttle instantly flick to high rev's and take off even though they are only limping it around. They can't just give it light throttle and cruise off sounding normalish. If that makes sense. Would be awesome to check out an incar vid of the speedo tacho with you just cruising around.. maybe a little bit of a hard throttle blip off the mark with out stalling it up and maybe with stalling it up also. Just to wet my appetite. Thats if your able to do so. I sure will be doing a before and after vid.. before with manual.. after with the rb30.

Dyno and then ensure there's no ping under street conditions.

bah if its tired and low on compression push some more boost in to it.

Yep down this way there's 3 dyno's that read within a few kw's of each other then one that generally runs v8's that both times the blokes had the car on the dyno its thrown out a figure that is ~30rwkw lower. Same shootout mode; dyno operator said its probably just software version. Another bloke I know has had his car on the same dyno twice; once it made 214rwkw another time 230rwkw as it was strapped down different.

Guy, In drive where does it want to shift up at?

old thread. I broke third gear by simply holding the gear out with light throttle. The acceleration prior was half throttle up on boost in third. Taking good pics of the teeth I was told by GTRgeoff I think it is that the teeth stripped due to fatigue. Similiar to that of bending a coat hanger until it finally breaks. As the 3ltr torque was constantly pushing hard up against the teeth they were slightly bending then one day just bang. I've still got good maco shot pics if u want to see Roymiester.

And they all run the exact same version of software? This too makes a difference to power readings.