Cubes

Interesting.. Whats with the 2 lumps in front of each cam shaft on the cam belt then? It was an N/A that I had a look at, I wouldn't have thought the turbo head would be any different.

Awesome.. And it bolts straight up with the same vct modifications as the usual R33 head? I'm not too familiar with the R34 head to be honest. From what I saw they appear to run vct on both the inlet and exh. cam. Is that correct? If thats correct I'm also assuming its not a very intelligent system where by its constantly variable but a simple rpm switch point?

R32 RB25 and R33 RB25 valves are exactly the same size. The R32 RB25DE head ports are quite a bit bigger than the rb20det ports and are of the same design/shape. They are however slightly slightly smaller than the RB25DET/RB26DETT ports. The RB25/26 port design looks more of a square shape. If I were to do it again and were not bothered about the non-stock look I would grab R33 RB25DET head and utlize its vct that aids low and topend power. Anything to extend that power band with the 3ltr is definitely a good thing. If its a streeter the VCT aids low end torque and as a result in theory, fuel economy. The R34 GTT head would be better again but unfortunately there are limited aftermarket plenums available.

std rods should be fine providing you keep rev's in check. Highest I've heard of a stock bottom end being pushed and holding together for some time was around 370rwkw, that was on the dyno that I run on. It had a GT40 bolted to the side of it with an SOHC head. Unsure if the motor actually let go or if he was just building up another motor as rods are required at that power level.

You still got that vid laying around Bass?

Quite a few ppls have done radiators and radiator hoses due to the high pressure cap.

Any Idea's?

Yep exactly for my :S smiley.. .Not really the best way to 'patch' a problem, the motors still running perfectly to this day so really its only to prevent the annoyance factor.

I've had a boot of a play with a genuine and aftermarket (2 different brand aftermarkets) thermostats. It was interesting to note the aftermarket thermostats opened really quickly and by a lot. The genuine however opened more slowly and progressively and its total opening amount was half of the aftermarket. Both thermostats were rated at the usual RB 76.5degree's. The aftermarket also would shut up much quicker compared to the genuine that would take its time. On the road the genuine held a more consistent temp where as the aftermarket would fluctuate depending on load and driving conditions, not to mention it to considerably longer for the car to warm up. In a VL that I had both 2 new aftermarkets and a genuine in the aftermarket even though it would open considerably wider, sooner and ran the car initially a little cooler would overheat (begin creeping past half) when driving UP willunga Hill. Both new aftermarket thermostats did this. The motor had a complete powerflush with multiple flushes of my own and a bran new radiator, all shrouding new clutch fan etc. I dropped the genuine in, the car ran a little warmer but stayed on the notch before half and most importnatly it only moved 1/2 a notch compared to the aftermarket 1.5notch. I found it strange how the higherflowing aftermarket thermostat made the car run hotter, possibly a flaw in the vl cooling system that requires the coolant to travel just that little bit slower or something. Hope that makes sense.

I know of a bloke that went from 10w40 to 15w50. He was making up around 300rwkw on low 20's boost from memory. After running it with the 10w40 on the dyno the tuner recommended the 15w50. The motor was a tad quieter with the thicker oil, apparently it had a strange knock as it would rev down off the dyno and the thicker oil fixed it. :S

I've been told by the local turbo bloke that they don't exist. Same goes for specs on the turbine housing, nothing is on paper that we are able to get our hands on. Maybe Nissan but chances of being able to dig something up are slim to none.

Busky2k, The SR exh. manifolds are pretty good standard arn't they?

Noice............ Should have some fun with that... Is it a street reg'd ea or an x-race EA?

Out of curiosity did it have an immobiliser fitted? Curious as to how smart these low life scums are.

I'm with ^^^^ The head on mine needs to come off

Adriano, Your theory doesn't play out in the real world. Rolling down a big arsed hill for almost 2 minutes at 100km/h does see my engine temps drop from 83degree's to ~50degree's. I've had 2 new thermostats in the car, one with the old RB20DET and it was the same, and the second in the RB30DET that also does exactly the same. My sisters old VL would do exactly the same also, that too was running a genuine thermostat. I would be curious as to how quickly a motor would warm up if it were towed with the ignition off. My guess is a very very long time. Do remember I'm not talking about a 30second hill, Willunga hill is one big arsed hill that you travel at 100km/h down/up for a good couple of minutes. Give it a go and you too will see.

None the less Tasos car does appear to have a few little issues. Cam timing and afr's. It shall be very interesting if fixing these issues drop power to whats considered normal levels. If so well... It appears Taso has stumbled upon a cheap easy way to make excellent power. Do the old VL trick, throw it a tooth forward or back. Taso, be sure to take note of what the cam timing was prior, if it drops power throw it back to the way it was and bath in the free power and share it with the rest of us SAU goobers.

In theory there should be bugger all internal friction as bearings float on a flim of oil; meaning no metal on metal contact as a result no/extremely little friction apart from the friction/drag of the oil. Combustion is what creates temps within a motor.

I'll have to check mine but some later model RB20's ran 2 FPR's, one as a line dampner (I assume) and the other to regulate pressure within the rail. But yes.. I'll check mine today and get back to you which one is which. You'll known either way as the car won't start with them around the wrong way.

Remembering back to the days of school when we had a mr policeman come and visit us in yr 9. The idea was to educate us a little about road safety. I remember he suggested if we get pulled over to jump out of the car with your license ready and try to approach them before they approach you. Obviously don't get out the car and run at them - lmao - as you'll probably end up on the ground or have a gun pointed at your head. Its worked for me so far (touch wood), its a bit of a laugh when it catches them off guard and they are fumbling quickly to try and grab their bits and pieces as you wait. Not all but some. If anything I do it simply for my own amusement.

if it were that person it that would be his/her response. He has to protect the identity of the dibba dobber cindy/liar wet ya pants at kindy. Just for good measure go grab a shoe box, have you and a couple of your mates take a dump in it cover it with a tinny little bit of news paper light it up, ring their door bell and watch. *jk*

bl4ck32 has a set of GTR front guards for sale, he's in SA also.

I dont see it possible either. See how it goes once all its little issues are sorted out (cam timing and afr). If it still pulls high figures on stock boost then..................... get a run on a different dyno and if its still a high figure.............. well there's no explaination.

Your not running an adj. cam gear? This will throw the positioning of the cas sensor out. Maybe the incorrectly set cam timing has helped power a tad. Wouldn't it suck if you dropped it back to find its lost power everywhere and back to the norm.

What area Daniel?