Cubes

It should bea 3 strikes and it gets towed. Would prevent the one off false accusations.

Airflow... The RB25 head flows air in and out of the pots easier. 14psi on an rb20 makes ~190rwkw, ~11psi on an rb25 makes ~190rwkw. They will both be spinning at a similiar RPM and pushing similiar air. Once you start pushing a turbo past its airflow capability it begins to push hotter and hotter air that is more prone to detonation, higher egt's (the real killer), greater turbine back pressure etc. No one apart from garrett and the likes really knows but thats basically it.

Unsure if its the correct way but I've never had any issues. I tap the strap on a hard surface, generally 3 taps using basically the weight of the spark plug. I then check the clearance, then do it again. I buy the pregapped 0.8mm plugs and find they are always a little looser than 0.8mm. ----------- Also the reason the motor misses with cracked coils; as combustion pressures rise it becomes increasingly difficult for the spark to jump the gap, as a result the spark earths to the next easiest earth point, that being the coils holder IF there's a crack in the coil body. Lower the combustion pressure (less boost) and the missfire dissapears as the cracks 'resistance' (if you like) is greater than the spark plugs resistance to jump.

lol... Yep I remember the discussion... The motor can't really generate much heat without fuel and combustion. As a result engine temps drop.

At the last boostworx dyno day it was shown that the lesser shootout modes read slightly lower than the higher I.e Shoot4 vs Shoot81. Looking through all the dyno sheets they are all within 5degree's of the AMB temp. I watched shaun place the IT sensor either in the cai snorkle or basically on the pod. HOWEVER.. Dyno runs were done with the bonnet up. So not really reflecting what would really occur on the street.

So if those cars with high inlet temps were to pull up next to another car with low inlet temps but same power on the dyno down at the local drag stip which will accelerate and run down the 1/4 quicker? My bet is the one with the low IT temps. But the power figures are the same. wtf. Or think of it this way... Same car same car identical power curves at the same km/h, ones a turbo 6 ones a v8. The turbo 6 has had some pretty funky correction on its power curve due to its higher inlet temps. Which one will run down the 1/4 quicker? The N/A with its lower IT temps.

On the street higher IT = less power. On the dyno higher IT = more power. I have the IT sensor placed inside my airbox and airtemps are 0-1degree's what the AMB temp is. BUT I do run a CAI. How the turbo heats the air and how well the FMIC cools the air back down is then setup dependant and will reflect in real world performance. IF I were to run no intercooler I could in theory still be making the same power on the dyno but real world acceleration would suck. If the dyno operator is reading the post turbo 'real' inlet temps and having the dyno correct a power figure on this then that is simply way off. The motors 'real' Power will always be down as the engine will always be swallowing air of such a temp. What will we have next.. Boost correction, compression ratio correction, engine displacement correction? AMB air temp correction all the way.

But infating power figures because of a poorly setup induction system is wrong and doesnt reflect real world performance. The dyno will read higher but real world performance will be down. Is that really the way to go about correcting power figures? Maybe airtemp entering the grill correction will reflect a real world power figure.

Exactly its not plastic in the typical sense.

The RB20 turbo that came off mine has 9 blades. Looks identical to mine. --------- The R33 S2 and R34 Compressor wheels are made of the same plastic type material. Its not plastic just looks like black plastic.

Not much you can do about that.. There's a massive hill here in Adelaide (Willunga Hill) Even though driving back from Victor Harbor is 30mins odd minutes prior once you hit that hill and sit on fuel cut for a couple of minutes engine temps drop to 50odd degree's.

Which is why its especially important to run a genuine thermostat as they get the car up to operating temp and out of the water temp correct table within 1-2km's. Otto, if you run a pfc you can lean the water temp correct table out to all buggery until the drivability begins to suffer. I was able to take out a considerable amount of correction. I've seen a few maps from different tuners now and find it interesting they almost never touch the water temp correction table.

whiter31gxe, Have you had it on the dyno for a power run to see if its pinging and what the afr's are like? Do hit the dyno before winding up boost or possibly wind the boost up on the dyno. At least you can see what its doing. Especially as the ecu has clearly been fiddled with.

lol you were running a stock exh. with that run. lmao.. I missed that little part in your previous post.

lol don't take it as a dig it was just an observation of what may have bumped the figure up slightly. Which I'm sure you noticed also. Regarding 3rd to 4th gear.. Mine actually made 4rwkw in 4th. Quite interested to see how the before after run goes, would be interesting if the power level stock is still up around 180rwkw. lol

Yep but look at the IT temp. But more importantly.. How does it compare up against some of the R33's floating around running more boost with similiar power?

Geocities pulled the site down as their auto script deemed it as a site that contains forwarding code that automatically bounces you to another web site, which it clearly didn't. I've raised a dispute so it should be back online within a day or so. If not I'm looking at throwing it in SAU's wiki which will also prevent those who bundle the guide with engine manuals and sell it on ebay. With regards to the Vg30 bolts... Can any one else confirm so I can throw it in the guide for others?

Bad fuel consumption can be related to the head work. I had Chris Milton Engineering here in Adelaide do the work on my head. I wasn't able to find a more highly regarded workshop here in SA, even though they did charge a little more I feel it was worth it. All though you do have a stalling issue so there may be a little gremlin lurking. Do the usual. Check afr's, o2 sensor, afm and ensure injectors are clean.

Heres a little snip of Pete (bass Junky) ripping it up with his gcg rb25det. http://skylinesaustralia.vidiac.com/video/...e9ddd8b8f34.htm and a little incar footage. http://skylinesaustralia.vidiac.com/recent...aeb419e957c.htm

oh... So it would have stuffed the bearings then?

If you want to fix the leaning out problem head back to your tuner and have him suggest what he thinks it is. Hell he deals with cars every day so no doubt he will have half an idea and will most likely book it in when he has another r33 there so he can swap out the ecu's. OR if he deals with the skylines a lot he will have spare parts laying around for trouble shooting.

lol yes I was quick.. Only just got home, checked email and there you were. It looks as if your running the later style cas, being without the black center. The early model cas's run a half moon key so its either in or not. Spline... so the late model doesn't run the usual half moon key?

Stocky, Your CAS is pretty advanced looking. Are you running an adj. cam gear?

No turbo'd car is 'ok' with a 13:1 AFR.

My stock injectors didn't get me far. I managed 176rwkw and they were hitting 92%. A friend is making 182 or 187rwkw (I forget exactly) and hitting 100%. Both duty cycles were a 12:1 AFR. As I run 2 fuel pumps I assumed the low volts being seen at the fuel pumps were causing the low power reading and high duty cycle. Running a direct feed to the fuel pumps saw volts jump to exactly what the alt throws out ~13.8v. The car did run slightly richer so no doubt I would have got a little more out of the injectors but I gave up and threw a set of larger injectors in. As an interesting note also a friend ran up his VLT on the same dyno I run on and made 187rwkw. His stock injectors were also maxing out and afr's began getting leaner than 12:1 as it approached redline. VLT's run the same sized 260cc injectors as the RB20DET's. EDIT: How long since you changed your fuel filter?