Cubes

My hopes it is also... and not one of those expensive hard to track down bugs. I've tried with with both; haven't changed the o2 feedback co-efficient. I've init. the pfc and simply selected vg30 maf and applied inj correction. Still the same. I'll rip off the intanks plate tomorrow and see if I can hear the intank pump working. Fingers crossed it isn't so its an easy fix. I just came back from a drive then... Its really strange; cold start it was good, 1km down the road it started surging; pulled over did the pfc reset; drove off it was ok for 500m then began playing up again. 10km's later and it came good for another 5km's then went to crap again. Some times on cruise it will go lean; accelerate a little and it comes up and the o2 begins cycling again; back off slightly and it goes lean. But note that is some times.. Othertimes it simply stays lean then gradually becomes richer again. Whats strange is if I were to give it a bit it doesn't completely go lean it surges a little then takes off, but I suspect it is going lean a tad as it does tend to det a tad. Which isn't good. Hope that made sense. lol

The 71 will provide plenty flow for the .63 housing. Personally I think the 76 or 82mm wheel will be a waste as the exh side won't be able to flow enough to make the most of the comp wheel.

Hi ppls, Over the last few weeks I've been experiencing the occasional lean conditions; sometimes when I first start the car other times just out of the blue. The car will be driving fine then all of a sudden I notice a slight surging at light/moderate throttle and a rough idle; check the pfc's sensor check and see the o2 sensor going lean. Driving the car it tends to surge a little and feels as if it has a bit of a flat spot at the start of the throttle. It used to come good once getting up on boost. A simple pull over and shutdown and restart 9 times out of 10 would get it going smooth again. Now (today) it began going lean once up on boost and also knocking easy. Nothing I could do would get it driving nicely again; it would however come and go as I drove; lean then it would smooth out and afr's would return to normal. All sensors (afm *that is/was new* etc) check out and are reading as they usually do, apart from the o2 obviously. The external bosch pump appears to to be buzzing away as it usually does however the intank std pump that is well overdue may be failing. Could the intank pump have failed causing a restriction to the external fuel pump? I'm not sure if that is possible. Maybe... Do note that I threw the external pump on the car as the std pump couldn't keep up with only 150rwkw at the wheels when the RB20DET was in it running 12psi. That was ermm..... Over 130,000km's ago. So....... Any one had an experience similiar? The come and go surge/lean conditions that progressively get worse. I'm going to look at the pump first; if its not that then my first place of call is the PFC. Just a gut feeling.

Just being a FWD puts a hell of a lot of people off. Which is a pitty really.

No matter what its going to sell to its market.. Its not like its a Mitsi Magna that people tend to steer clear of as people know toyota as 'reliable'

I'm so down on fwd as I've driven the magna's in the last 6-7years as they are released. A few standard base models but the majority have been VRX 5speed with the occasional auto. The new 380 GT Auto I drove had a fair bit of off the line punch and reasonable top end but it was difficult to get off the line clean; it would tend to spin up easily. The older shape 3.5ltr VRX 5speed's were quite well balanced but you really had to hold on to them around corners; a 'spirited' drive through the hills left you feeling as if you had just run 25laps at Kart Mania. The old 3.5ltr VRX auto's were pos... They would bog down off the line.

Which is what Rob82 has suggested has an influence over how quickly the oil returns to the sump.

Does it chirp second?

There doesn't appear to be a listing on ebay for it at the moment. I bought the 14" last year. From memory it was around $80 inc. postage.

Darren, Yep supermod it is. An Admin gave myself and 2 others supermod rights that gives us mod abilities in all sections of the forum instead of just the given sections. Will come in handy as in the past late at night I've came across a few spammers etc in other sections that I haven't been able to do a thing about. ------ I've always gone to Shaun as I've known him since he was rubbing shoulders back at RPM with Tim and Ivan. He does good by me, never charged me the earth and has a solid track record with a handfull of std RB's pushing 300rwkw and holding together. I'm aware the dyno days do show a few inconsistent readouts but that honestly doesn't bother me as I've had my car on Shauns dyno many times prior and it always reads the same. I haven't had it on at a dyno day so I have no idea if it would read the same then; possibly not as its usually strapped down by some one different. Thats all that really matters to me. It would be interesting to hold the next dyno day at Hitek dyno. Why not..

Lifters wont cause it to be down on compression. How are the injectors? They have been flow tested? Maybe the motors been running a little too lean on cruise resulting in dead rings? Or maybe it was a manufacturing fault?

Its ugly.... I don't understand why Toyota don't save them selves a little money and simply rebadge the mark-x as the new camry. Its a nice looking car with reasonable power and it will sell. FWD really is horrid; accelerate moderatly hit a pot hole and it yanks you across the road. (380 GT Auto I drove)

I recently saw an r32 on shauns dyno with the usual exhaust, 13psi, fmic and it made 160rwkw. AFR's were flat 11.

Waz, for some reason I thought u were running gtr cams?

I used to run 2 x 12" thermo's. They were ok up until ~30degree's and sitting in traffic with the a/c on. 2 x 12" thermo's sucking don't work; pulling the fan off I measured the were pulling air through ~30% of the radiator. They have a huge dead spot in the middle of the fan due to the motor. Sucking..... A single 16" will be better than 2 x 12's... Its not the airflow that is as critical its the surface area covered. A good stock fan works well OR 2 x 12" thermo's sitting on a shoud so they draw air through the whole of the radiator. I currently run the stock clutch fan and have replaced the std aircon fan with a single 14" cheapo from Ebay. The cheapo from Ebay works awesome, it runs the S shape blade so its quiet and pushes a hell of a lot of air. I still seeup to 95degree's sitting in traffic witht he a/c on. With the a/c off the car will run up to 8degree's cooler depending on traffic conditions and how hot the day is. Its amazing how much hotter the a/c makes the car run. Normal temps even on 4degree mornings is what it should be 82-84degree's. If yours is running cooler than 80degree's it has an issue and WILL be running in the cold enrichment and retard table. Which isn't a good thing for power and especially economy.

Time to unpin and DIE!!!!!

Sounds about right.. My std 260cc injectors were max'd out on 9psi at a shade over 5000rpm and making close to 180rwkw with a 12:1 AFR. Figures obviously depend a little on the given dyno but they were max'd out with the std afm also reading 4.98v.

2 days is nothing to worry about. Chances are he will simply send it out. --------- Also with regards to the boost controller.. I found the adjustment to be a little bodgy as the top of the spring would often jam in to thread; I bent the top of the spring in slightly and now its extremely smooth and so much easier to adjust.

oooeeerrrr 2 whole days...

Its quite scary how quickly it goes from half to the H. A 3 stage stock temp guage is good, nothing worse than a swaying temp guage. 109degree's is ok, over 120-125degree's is where the coolant begins to boil. :S

An aftermarket ecu or ecu remap with a set of adj cam gears will give you a little. Apart from that a bigger motor.

Regarding the stock temp guage. The stock water temp guage is basically a 3 stage. Cold, operating then HOT. For example mine see's half at ~70 degree's right up to ~110degree's where it only just starts to move up towards the H. On hot days in traffic without the a/c on I generally see around 90degree's. With the A/C on in traffic it gets up around 95 and has seen 100degree's on those 40+degree days. Once the traffic gets moving temps quickly come back down to around the mid 90's. I've never had any issues with heatsoak and what not. BUT I still run the stock airbox and have a great big dirty 100mm cai entering the box from the left inner bumper.

Once engine coolant temps get up the ecu begins to retard ign. timing. Unsure what coolant temp that is on the stock ecu but on the R33/R32 GTST pfc's its from 80degree's. The GTR PFC begins retarding ign timing from 90degree's.

Unfortunately once a thread has been created you can't add in a poll.. The thread will need to be recreated.

Bang for buck you can't go past the Apexi PFC EBC as its dirty cheap from nengun and perfect run etc and as stated above is a duty cycle learning type boost controller. Personally I would prefer the Jaycar EBC over the Apexi PFC EBC as its more flexible with its only downer being the ugly controller (that you can remove once setup anyway). For more features (gear gain settings, gear boost settings and a few others) the Apexi AVCR is a good option.