Cubes

It will definitely be a nice system.. How much and what ram are you going to throw in it Chops?

Why are you still running the lumps in the exh. port. They kill flow when not running a log style manifold. The idea of them is to help direct airflow but most importantly prevent reversion. There's no need for them on an n/a with nice extractors.

The rb25 (86x71.7) is 2498.95cc's. 0.040" oversize would grab you a whole 58.45cc's. One whole scooter. lmao. In total 2557.40cc Its not far off the RB26. (86x73.7) - 2568.65cc's Rb26 with 0.040" oversize 2628.74cc's. If your really chasing every cubic inch throw GTR crank in to the RB25 and run 87.5mm pistons. That will grab you 2659.04cc's or 101.64cc's so 2 scooters. If your doing pistons your best bet is to retain factory quench that aids low and mid range torque, economy, emissions etc. Use the pistons to grab the comp ratio you are after not a thicker headgasket.

So the number plate doesn't match?

Steve, Running no bov. Any drivability issues? A mates VLT without a bov felt perfectly fine. That had up near 200,000km's on the clock, its old bush turbo was still fine.

The thread really was very lucky it went for as long as it did. The OP's opening post and thread title origionally contained derogatory remarks.

Reliability.. 1. Toshiba and 2. Dell

lmao.

hehehe I thought that would stirr you up. lol Pulling ya leg buddy.

The 805's aren't all that bad. Encode while reading emails and burning a dvd... The dual core does do better than the single core. The system is much more fluid, yes the 650 'may' get the job done a tad quicker but the system responsiveness won't as nice as the dual core. Thats my experience anyway. Never tried encoding while playing a game... Burnt a dvd in nero while BF2ing yes. Also... My little old ATI 9700pro in a 805D system pics up 2000 3dmarks2001se. lol, didn't bother with newer 3dmarks, card can't handle it. The old P4 3.4ghz's are ok and roughly on par with the old AMD XP3200+ so not really that grunty. BUT Intel have turned things around with their new Core Duo 2

R33 RB25DE has the R33/RB26 style ports. The R32 Rb25DE has a completely different design, being as I mentioned above the same design/style as the R32 RB20DET but ~5mm larger all round.

General windows usage one won't notice a jump in performance if you simply swap out the motherboard and drop in a 4600+. As Bl4ck32 said its the dual core/multitasking where you notice it flicks between apps and allows you to do multiple things at once without bringing the computer to its knee's. Simply increasing cpu speed won't stop the computer dropping to its knees should you encode and do a couple things at once. Which is what I 'think' bl4ck32 was getting at. I've setup a few dual core systems now (all have been intel but) and I must say they are damn nice, the system doesn't feel faster than mine it just does things smoother and never really chugs. For a bargain dual core windows system the 805 Pentium D is a bargain and a half, it is a screamer of an overclocker and only costs $150 odd. Slap 1gb worth of ocz or corsair value type ram in it and you have yourself a fairly reasonable windows system for only a few hundred.

Nice.. I'll be jumping camp next upgrade and will be going a Core 2 Duo. I'll grab a lower end cpu that runs a suitable multiplier, I have no issues with overclocking, been doing it since the old 486sx25's, never had anything break. This old AMD XP2100+ is still going strong at 3200+ for ~4.5yrs I think its been now. But.. it really depends on the time. If I can justify spending another few hundred to simply grab the higher end cpu.

Do make sure its secured and earthed as many have learnt the hard way and killed their ignitor by leaving it flop around. I recently removed my coil pack cover to check the coils, I chopped up a spare cover that was laying around. I'll be leaving the cover off until I receive the new splitfires. Std coils have done well. Racked up on the odo 220,000km's in total, a shade over 150,000km's of those being mine. Be sure its very dark and you have just taken the car for a spin. Sit and look for little flashes of light. As I think I said, coils 2, 3 and 4 are arcing out on mine, yet on 11psi it doesn't really pop. Only occasionally, more boost and no doubt they would.

My stock guage is all over the place. Some days it reads like it should, others barly above the 0. Its always been like that though, even with the old motor. Quite funny actually as I've caught it going from crappy to normal. Cruising along at 100km/h, oil pressure sitting on around .5 then all of a sudden with a sharp jolt the needly flicks up to just over 4 which is where it sits when the guage is playing nice, sat there for the next few days then decided to go gar gar again. Wouldn't be too concerned. RB20's are cheap anyway, drive it until she starts making funny noises. Guilt Toy.... I'd say your lifter problem was likely attributed to poor oil pressure. As I'm sure you already know.

I wouldn't worry too much if the readings are all equal. Compression testing guages can be quite inconsistent from one brand to the next. A mate of mine in his VLT tested his and made 160 across all cylinders.. erm 160psi with a 7.8:1 comp ratio. oookaaay..

Sorry my post was a tad missleading. The first set of tyres that came on the car were 205's Bridgestone Donuts. Since then its had a set of 225's on.

It will bolt up but put some power through it with the torque of the 2.6ltr and it will break. So do it then start saving for a 25 box, it will last a while. But it will break.

Are you able to do the R32 RB25DE inlet manifold gaskets? Same port design as the R32 RB20DET but slightly larger ports ~5mm larger all round.

I've ran 225/50 16's on my std rims since day dot.. Looks a little better than skinny 205's and with a reasonable tyre it does offer a lot more grip.

I had the biggest attempted intimidating stare from a cop in an undercover car today... I was sitting smack on the speed limit in the left lane with cars passing me. When I realised I instantly felt anger which simply isn't on. They shouldn't make you feel that way towards them when your just cruising along minding your own business. Do remember mine is 100% stock looking from the outside, hell even the exhaust looks stock and its super difficult to see the fmic and I putt around like a grandma everywhere. But it is the minority as I had passed 4 other cops and they didn't bat an eyelid. Then last night.. lol I was frekin road raged by some ugly punk in his VT 250i Commodore... Cruising along on the speedlimit (80km/h) when he decides to boot it out in front of me with no blinker off the dirt. He litereally just yanked it out in front of me, I jammed the brakes dropped to 50km/h and still had a good 2 car length gap, he accelerated to speed limit as did I, still not tailgating or flashing etc.. Then he pulls over, I pass he swerves at me as I pass then boots it up my arse with the high beams on. Gotta love the skylines fold in mirrors... Fold them in slightly flick the center revision mirror and no more bright lights. Then thoughts started running through my head.. "what if that prick reports me for hoon driving or some crap when I clearly haven't lmao..

If its a ceramic clutch they rip the absolute crap out of the stock flywheels. Big grooves. :S In a nutshell it needed a few more rpm to launch without bogging BUT it was easier to control wheel spin when launching. High rpm gearchanges are noticably quicker, the next gear simply drops in. Once moving the lighter flywheel made the car feel as if it would accelerate easier/quicker in first. It felt brisker and more willing. In the higher gears there was no noticable difference to acceleration.. Only in first allthough I swear it made the car feel as if boost snapped on harder in second. Overall.. On an RB20 that needs all the low speed acceleration it can get its a worth while mod with real benifits that I would do again. Do remember not to go too light as the flywheel weight isn't as important as where the weight is removed from. A 5.5kg flywheel that has a heap of material removed from the outer will offer less resistence to spin up than a 4.5kg flywheel that has less material removed from the outer but more from the inner.

You have a GTST or GTR? All the gearbox's bolt up but the floorpans are different between the rwd and 4wd. So the 4wd g/box simply won't fit into a GTST as the transfer case fouls the floorpan.

Yes thats it Jazza.. The mains power didn't hurt as much, just a really strange humm wobble through my body, if that makes sense. Still hurt and instantly had what felt like my heart jumping out of my chest. The bang of the elec ign still scares me, but yes I would prefer to be booted by that then be electrifried by mains. A massive boot of static electricity is a good description. Back in school did you ever play(zap) hehe with those 'clickers' from gas hot water systems? They used to give a nice little zap, used to hurt a little.

I haven't backed up anything for quite a while but I remember safedisk wasn't the issue.. Well it was but the games I have the first patch released made rid of the safedisk check as it didn't work with some hardware. i.e quake 4 Securom was the pain in the arse. But thinking back I do remember a freeware piece of software that was able to grab the DPM data from the disk. This was back when Alcohol was having issues and hadn't implemented DPM yet.. It may still be around and work with the new versions of Securom. I can't exactly remember to be honest, I simply bought alch backed up my cd's, made a mini images and been playing without issues since. What copy protections your hardware will have issues backing up is hardware dependant so its not really simple. Mini-images are the go. Only needed to load the game and get past that copy protection check. EDIT: There may even be a similiar safedisk type program to get past the securom stuff now. Haven't had to look to see if there is.