
Cubes
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Everything posted by Cubes
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I tend to go a little overboard when bleeding. I use 2 bottles of brake fluid, the usual castrol red bottle. I tend to steer clear of the synthetic stuff in the old R32's.. The synthetic stuff doesn't lubricate as well, especially in clutches. If I rebuilt all callipers and master cyl I would only thrn feel comfortable running synth fluid. First I always remove the fluid from the reservoir refill and drip bleed the reservoir. I then have it drip bleed from the furthest point even if those pads aren't being changed. The pads that are being changed I crack the nipple and push the piston all the way in with a g-clamp. Before removing the g-clamp I drip bleed for a little to get the old fluid out then nip up the nipple. Drop the pad in and pump the brakes a little to bring the piston back out. I then drip bleed that same calliper again. Then on to the next and do the same. I've never had any issues doing it this way in the past 5yrs I've owned my 32, BUT I'm good at not letting air in to the system. If you let air in to the system you will need to bleed the system via the usual pedal method. An old mechanic friend said to always crack the nipple when pushing the callipers cylinder in as it can damage the master cylinder. If this is possible.. I really have no idea. My thinking is its silly to do so anyway as its pushing old hammered fluid back in to the line when you could be pushing it out in to your jar. So disco.. The drip bleed method on the 32's at least work really well. I can't say I've ever driven another make car with a better brake feel than mine. I've driven an R33 and that felt the same, the initial free play of the pedal is progressive and graby, the pedal is then solid and from hat point onwards its easy to jab the brakes and have all 4 lock. At no point did either mine or the R33 feel as if I was struggling to pull up, i.e lots of force on the pedal without overcoming the tyre grip. A good example of poor brakes are VL or VN Commodores. Those things feel like your almost touching the floor pan on hard braking.
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I tend to think its the ignitor also. Before forking out do check the wiring back to the ignitor, throw a multimeter on to it. I recently snapped up an ignitor for $30.
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Unless you bought the tensioners/idlers and replaced them yourself do rip off the top timing belt cover and have a look in. I trust no one, in the past had the odd bad experience. (full gearbox rebuild where they only just replaced a couple of syncro's resulting in a box that still had layshaft rattle and the worse part, they charged me 1.2k)
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lmao.. your a funny man Driver.
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Tiff's R32 Gtst Conversion To R32 Gts25t
Cubes replied to Squishy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
andy, The R32 RB25DE and RB20DET injectors are identical. Both 260cc High Imp top feed. Either will run on the RB20DET ecu. -
Tiff's R32 Gtst Conversion To R32 Gts25t
Cubes replied to Squishy's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Sounds like a great setup grim32. Will definitely be very very streetable. Can't wait to see the results. -
Need A Workshop Recommendation Of A Different Kind
Cubes replied to mr_rbman's topic in South Australia
lol thats my problem. I've already had the head cleaned up with valve deshroud and mild in/exh porting, I wouldn't mind doing a little more work to the exh. side of things. -
Need A Workshop Recommendation Of A Different Kind
Cubes replied to mr_rbman's topic in South Australia
lol @ $800. Bugger that. As that horrid saying goes Ash.. Suck and see. Push the boost in to it and see how she goes. Your springs have been shimmed up where as sky30 and my won weren't. Bl4ck32 has had no issues on 16psi with his spring shimmed. So give it a go. Shaun shouldn't charge much for a retune on more boost as it should only take two hrs including cam gears. -
I asked regency about aftermarket plumb backs.. I was told no, its part of emissions so I can't touch it. This was some time ago.. Give Regency a buzz and see what their stand is on it these days. Just block the std off and enjoy quicker turbo spool and almost zero lag between gear changes. As mine spools so soon it caused a few driveability issues but nothing I couldn't work around.
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S2 R33 Turbo is the best bet for spool & power on the rb20.
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More so how it plays with the afm and dumps fuel. I blocked my bov off when testing if it leaked and found it would pop and fart & occasionally stalling. Venting the air would play havoc with the air metered even more so.
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AM-LACKOFPERFORMANCE drives like a pansy anyway it should be all good. It should be ok as the motors torque twist drops the drivers side of the motor.
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You originally said I said I didn't really get across what I was getting at... Poorly worded. I was getting at that its a must one should run a collar. Be it N1 or std. Nissan fixed it for a reason in their R33 GTR's and S2 R33's. It shall be interesting what r33_racers failure was. As I think I mentioned earlier he ran a N1 pump, crank collar and ati balancer. Fingers crossed for all of us it wasn't the usual cracked internal pump gear and something else silly. Because if it is then.... JUN pump or external is really the only option for high rpm reliability for us rb30 heads.
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Rb25det Popping Sound Around 5000rpm
Cubes replied to O.I.C Napster's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
And a picture of my crack. Same place where yours was? -
I spotted the RIP DAD R32 the other day at the south rd/marion intersection heading up Flagstaff Hill road.
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The RB30ET blokes have always used them. There was a bloke on here running a td06-20g setup running the std rb30 pump. Sitting on the rev limiter at 7500rpm during massive burn outs and it hasn't let go. Apart from that I really don't know how far the std pump has been pushed. These days calais turbo will be full of the dohc pumps where as before back in the early days of the rb30et's they would have no doubt pushed the std pump hard. What did Bu5ter do with his rb30det setup? He hasn't had any issues that I know of. Bu5ter below. http://skylinesaustralia.vidiac.com/recent...004c1df333e.htm
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It does as there are more failures with n1 pumps than std pumps. I was aware of this years back when I did my motor. Hence the reason for sticking with the std pump. Which was also suggested a wise idea from the engine builder. And whats more interesting... The RB30et pump, I can't say I've heard of those breaking in the same way our dohc pumps break. Sure the majority don't see the same kind of revs but still, some have had their dohc pumps let go when cruising. According to some one in another thread who had or did tests on the n1 and std pumps found the n1 pump to have hardened gears, however this causes the metal to become more brittle. Unsure exactly its in the rb30 thread I believe. Look there if u wish to see.
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LMAO.. Yes I've lost my nerve as I've got older and have my little boy in the car.
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Cars, Tuning, Running Rich And Fuel Efficiency
Cubes replied to Suspense's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I tend to agree with this.. I've pulled dialed mine back a little past ~1/2 of the std value and still haven't experienced any drivability issues. -
Nice LJ with a 328 in it. I can't imagine such a thing happening in this day and age.. I was surprised at times how long it took for the police to rock up; ppls would drop a bit of oil, washing detergent or what ever it was and burn out after burnout would occur as ppls left on those warm nights.
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The SR's puff 500cc's per pot. Nice big long hard puffs to spool that turbo up. Drop an RB in it that puffs 500cc's per pot. Too bad about R33_racers recent failure, suspected N1 oil pump let go with a full crank drive and ATI balancer. Will see in days to come exactly what was the cause.
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Need A Workshop Recommendation Of A Different Kind
Cubes replied to mr_rbman's topic in South Australia
Chris Milton Engineering are the blokes who did the work on my head. They too said to rip the head off. They only wanted $100 to fit the springs up but wouldn't touch it with the head on the car. Reason being.. A custom tool is required to be made and really doing the springs on these heads is a pain in the arse. I'll probably end up ripping the head off and have them do a valve grind while its there, its done almost 45,000km's so it could do with one. -
Not sure if we are talking about the same car park. Originally there was the car park right at the end of Anzac highway, like right at the end where the roundabout now is. That was shut down ~10years ago (1995-1996) and all there was left was magic mountain car park, which in comparison was gay. Every weekend the car park at the end of Anzac';s would fill with hoons, burnouts packs of cars leaving to run up anzac. Given a couple of hours which was strange considering it always happened and the cop shop was 100m away the police would come in shut down the car park and defect those left. Was quite interesting for a young lad just getting his license. I've attached a pic of where it was. See the blue square.
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Aurion Has Arrived! - New Pics, Models, Prices.
Cubes replied to GTS_300_Coupe's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Poor analogy however it can be applied to fwd or rwd on SAND. The rear wheel drive on sand: sand pushes up against the front wheels making it harder for the rear wheels to push the car. A fwd however doesn't have this issue as sand is unable to push up against the front wheels, it simply drives over it, sand hardly pushes up against the rear wheels as they are being dragged rather than pushed in to the sand, they also have less weight over them. BUT who drives their beloved car on sand 99% of the time. I drive on the road were rwd is a much nicer drive. fwd you have to fight the steering too much not to mention should one hit a pot hole under acceleration. -
Aurion Has Arrived! - New Pics, Models, Prices.
Cubes replied to GTS_300_Coupe's topic in General Automotive Discussion
What about a small boat and those boat ramps? The fwd's struggle with the boat off the trailer to get traction.