Cubes

Cleaned thread up... Nice bike, but all caps gets under my skin. Off to the sale section we go.

Hey ppls, Out of my own curiosity I blocked my BOV off today. The sound.. well it does that vlt noise, its fairly quiet though as I run a stock airbox with a 100mm cai running in to it. So all the noise is out the front of the car. Boost is also up ~1psi. Apart from that, boost response is most definitely up. It boosts a hell of a lot earlier and on full throttle gear changes and part throttle back off's (i.e drifting) its definitely much much better. Now for the down side.. Mine for what ever reason suffered a few drivability issues. Plodding around changing up at around 2000rpm with ~7psi being made initial acceleration in the next gear halt/motor die for a fraction of a second then accelerate as per normal, sometimes it would fart and blow flames on the gear change. Driving up my drive way with a little free rev also saw the car stall. But I'm sure the stalling issue could be ironed out with an adjustment of the fuel recovery point. Apart from the low throttle low rpm issue; if I were to use the car for track or primarily drift, drag etc I would most definitely do the mod.

No probs.. Thanks.

none the less.. You've got a decent tuner, well obviously as its held up for such a time.

So you fitted up a new bov then or when you say seal you mean the cross over pipe to bov gasket? Very nice results, congrates. No doubt the top end feels much better.

The RB25's are tough nuts providing they are tuned well.. They appear to hold together much better when the comp ratio is dropped a little via a headgasket. thizzle... Are you still running stock 9:1 comp? If so thats damn impressive and credit goes to the tuner.

Ring them all. See them all.

Hybrid.. Where were the cracks on your coils? Same position as mine?

It did cross my mind they may have dyno'd in a heated spray booth.

Get the oil pressure checked. Throwing another litre of oil in won't bump up oil pressure. Its a 'stop-gap' measure to prevent oil surge at the track.

RE: Slick 50 Well said MBS206, its well known that stuff is complete crap.

That dyno figure was fudged. For one look at the IT temp.

If you want economy ignore the pod filter. Cold air is where economy is at. I would throw the car on the dyno to check out the afr's and how well the o2 sensor is working, if its lazy replace it. Following that have the injectors cleaned. Thats really the first stage of improving economy, following that you'd want to look at an aftermarket ecu. The performance side of things... For mild mods the stock airbox is perfectly fine, throwing on a pod won't see you pick up anypower, if anything it will lower your power slightly once the bonnet is closed off the dyno, it will no longer be sucking cool air via its stock cai but hot air thats just passed through the hot radiator. If it were N/A.. By all means free up that intake as there's no turbo to do the sucking for the motor. Doing the dump/front pipe before the cat back is useless. Cat back first for biggest power gains then dump/front for mainly spool/response gains. Head to the local jap wrecker, they will have some reasonable cat back exhausts.

Yep I too do the removal/install of my own turbo's. Doesn't take long but is a pain in the arse. I'm curious if some of the turbo failures are caused by crap left over in the oil lines after drilling.

I think I spotted Madaz out the front of the Hungry's/Servo on Anzacs last night when heading out to get some cheap $1 water from the brewery.

aquariuz6, Out of curiosity whats the going price for a decent removal/install? Hows your low rpm idle pressure once the cars warm?

pics?

If a mod were to do this an admin would have their way with them.

Its difficult to justify the cost of a HKS3037pros when Garrett now do their GT30's and GT35's in internal gate. Cheapest bloke I've came across for turbos is Roguepi or I believe his alias is Amosite or something on this forum. http://stores.ebay.com.au/ROGUEPI_W0QQcolZ...3QQftidZ2QQtZkm Keep an eye out for the internal gate gt30's, they tend to go pretty damn quick.

Its on an rb20.. push 14psi in to it.

As I can only really see the first 3 coils, number 2 with the big crack in it still sparks and can be seen at night . Number 1 and 3 that were only starting to crack don't light up anymore. I might pull them out again after a little driving and see if I can see arc marks and how the silicon is holding up.

And to dig up an old thread. That plug not being connected. For those interested after a little investigation.. The R32's. All the R32's I've seen all have this plug connected with associated wiring. However, they have all been series 2 R32's. They were are all manuals and one was a GTS4. The plug is called the throttle valve switch. On the R32's it's connected to ecu pins 57 and 54 and the full throttle contact point runs to the a/t computer. The ECU uses the data from this input to control Fuel injection, Ign. Timing and Idle speed control. Its interesting to note the R32 PowerFC's (that are based on an R33 RB25 powerfc) have ecu pinout 57 trace cut, as a result no power will be delivered to the top plug so essentially, its useless and doesn't need to be connected. The reason this trace is cut is the R33's its used for the ecu's exhaust temp sensor signal. The R32 doesn't run an exh. temp sensor signal to the ecu, the dash and associated crap that goes with it takes care of the exh. temp dash light display.

A quick google - silicon has a melting point of ~1410degree's c. http://www.google.com.au/search?hs=nAi&amp...earch&meta= Hrmmm sounds a tad high as I've melted silicon in the past with a soldering iron, maybe 'pure' silicon?

Cleaned up the small amount of crap inside the coil.. And noticed a cracks on all the coils, some noticeably cracked, others didn't look cracked but under the camera they obviously were starting to do so. Quite difficult to see but the camera in macro mode shows the crack very nicely. And fingers crossed.. the silicon does something.. Either way I know I'm up for a set of coils and cleaning the inside in my case isn't going to jack. Mine have been on the car for 220,000km's + what ever it was wound back. They were very clean in side the coils apart from one that only had a bit of gunk as posted above in a previous post. They all had cracks in the same place. I was unable to find any others but its quite possible there is one under the bracket that holds them to the larger bracket.

got pics. The coil that was arcing out the most did have the most crap in it.. But it isn't that bad. :S I'll now clean them up and see how it goes. You can see the darker off looking colour. The camera lightens it up quite a bit more but the color is quite dark.