Cubes

Madaz, When I spoke to Shannons they didn't ask what the car was going to be used for or where. It was just the usual insurance type questions. Does it have an immobiliser, garaged, under finance (which its not and would have added another ~250 on the premium) and what modifications. GFXman, trackday insurance does cost more. I believe they cover skill improving type education courses. Not sure if Motorkhana fits that bill or not. If Famous Classic Car Insurance still around? They used to be based in WA but offered excellent premiums and pay by the month. Their excess was also a tad nicer than just cars also.

A mate of mine has a speco boost guage and it reads a few psi with the car off.. lol

ahh yes.. so a newer shaped 626.. Was it a silverish colour and you were behind me at some stage. I think I remember looking back at a 626.

Please turn your caps lock off. Have you had the stock injectors flowed to know they are 270cc? You will find they are actually 260cc's. Has injector lag correction also been applied? Check for vacuum leaks, ensure the carbon canister has been hooked up as that can produce quite a nasty vac leak. A decent vac leak will cause it to run lean, be very difficult to start and once started it will stall.

Thats right. I've attached a pic of them. You can see the part number.

Any more info? The part number where you got it from?

Hrmm 3:30ish... Quite possible as I was out shopping for the other halfs birthday present. I was heading down Sturt Road towards Marion Shopping centre? I think I spotted you but didn't know it was you. You turned right at the lights?

I've used spray on pain stripper. Don't let it touch your skin it rips it off..

I think you used the wrong wiseco pistons. Possibly the pistons they list for the RB30DET that yield a comp ratio that is simply way too low. From memory they achieve a comp ratio of around 7:1. I used the RB25 wiseco 87mm pistons with a 14cc dome and cometic 0.55" head gasket. With that combo I've got just over 160psi in all 6 when the motor is warm. When cold its just under 160psi. And awesomely.... after 45,000km's all cylinders are the same except for cyl 3 thats a whopping 1psi down, the last comp test it was the same but the motor was tested only when cold. I'm stoked with how even the comp test came out.

Yep.

I'm considering ripping my bosch pump out come summer as bosch pumps sound crap once the weather warms up. I'll be dropping a new pump in so it will most likely be something along the lines of a tomei/nismo internal pump. They are both around the $300 mark. I won't go a second hand gtr pump as second hand really isn't worth the trouble when it may get a little lazy 6months down the track.

Try labour hire places in the short term until you secure work, occasionally you can secure full time work through them should an employer like you. Also looks better on your resume as it shows you are currently in some form of work. http://www.adecco.com.au/offices/offices-sa.htm http://www.intgroup.com.au/corporate/conta...australia.phtml

chrissso, You'd have to run an ecu that utilizes a map sensor. The r32/r33's don't so once the maf max's out there's no telling how much more air is entering the motor via the use of other sensors.

The commodores are well known for their tailshaft center bearing crapping its self, especially the VN's. They will send a vibe up through the steering wheel on accel and when it gets worse on cruise. I had mine done on the VS 5ltr twice, they don't last too long. Regarding the shake at 110km/h. I had that with my old gearbox in fifth gear. Drop it back to fourth and there was no vibration. The vibration you could feel up through the seat and slightly on the floor pan. It would slightly vibe the revision mirror where it was difficult to focus in on cars behind. New gearbox after it stripped third gear and no more vibe. So try that.. Get it vibrating.. Drop it back a gear and keep cruising.

As I said in different words.. Hitman believes your goals are within the scope of the std afm. Its most likely what he has found from previous experience, you may have an area on the map thats a 1,2 maybe a few kw down compared to what it could be, hitman believes its not worth the added cost or apparent drivability/economy issues you may see should you go the z32. Myself.. I noticed ZERO difference in economy or driveability going the z32 so I'm not really sure I know what hitman is getting at. Thats where you have to ask Hitman, its good to know whats going on with your car. Makes it so much more rewarding knowing the little things. Well for myself at least.

Waz, I don't think its armchair tuning, its the theory and what many others have already been through. Its quite straight forward. A motor is an airpump its as simple as that. It shall be interesting to see the afr plot once its all tuned up on the std afm. Be sure to grab one Drivebai. Don't walk out of there without an afr plot dyno sheet. I would expect it to have a nice afr then dip slightly as it goes a little richer then come back up as it starts using the fuel supplied. Nothing is wrong with that and it is safe (as safe as the tuner wants it to be) but it does have its limit. 260rwkw may very well be within that limit.

The rb30 smaller internal gears do mean less flow. Big chunky teeth take bigger bites of the fluid. A bit like a small turbo compressor wheel and a large one. I took a heap of pics of dohc and rb30 pumps when I was doing my motor. You want to see how pathetic the rb30's internal gears look to that of an rb25/gtr pump?

Thats it Pauline. I'm not talking R&R.. Have a quick read of my above post and R31nizmoids regarding what occurs when an afm is max'd out and you wish to make more power when the afm keeps telling the ecu its still flowing 5.115v's worth of air. Tuning requires one to richen up that last load point the max'd afm lands on to all buggery, this means from the point where the afm max's out until the peak power afr's and ign. timing will not be optimal as it will use the same set of ign and fuel values from lets say 200rwkw to 250rwkw. What happens when afr's are rich and its running bugger all ign. timing? You can't bend the afm curve/output in respect to the voltage it reads at a given airflow. That is set in stone within the afm its self. You can however adjust which load point a given voltage output uses. But this doesn't achieve anything UNLESS your maxing out your load values before maxing out the afm. I've done a few calcs with this based on the pfc's airflow curve's. It appears the Q45 is pretty much a perfect match for the rb25's map reference (load point) values. You hit 5.115v on the q45 and your at load point 20. The Z32 is a different kettle of fish it maxes out load points before reaching 5.115v, so manipulation of either the map reference or airflow curve is required. Either one is acceptable as they both essentially do the same thing.

slip... I've often had the knock sensor read high from a missfire/stuffed coils. Its quite possible when it missfires it does indeed knock. As for SuAvE-1, Throw it on the dyno for a power run. Be sure its not the cats temp sensor going off. The ecu pinout also doesn't have provision for the cat temp sensor so chances are it won't show in diag mode, maybe there is a code for the cat temp sensor, I haven't looked at the stock ecu for some time and can't remember.

recce, Which illustrates how quickly the stock IC becomes heatsoaked.

lol bah to rev n dump... Drop a rb30 in it and pull ~700odd maybe a touch more off that turbo spool threshold. Drop a GT30r .82 on the rb30det and have it spooling the same as a stock rb25det.

There's been a few R33's making near 200rwkw on a stock IC. Rev210.. Didn't you manage a high 12 on the stock IC some years back? The only benefit of an FMIC I see is CONSISTENT power.. At near stock boost levels and stock turbo the stock ic will make the same power on the dyno, on the street after its little ic has heat soaked its going to be down on power. I don't believe the stock ic is a massive restriction to airflow when running the stock turbo, it does however have a massive restriction in regards to its heat sink ability. This is its downfall. I run a sperco bar/plate IC thats rated to flow 580hp worth of air with a 1.5psi pressure drop. Running 12psi I picked up 3rwkw. On the road.. First didn't feel as if it boosted as early and the hit didn't snap as hard. Second was the same however it felt as if third and fourth pulled a little harder. Prior to fitting the fmic I cruised, pulled over strapped it to 4th gear pulled over felt the stock ic and it was cooking. So a simple quick strap was enough to have it heatsoak. The FMIC.. 3/4 of the fmic is cool the first 1/4 goes from hot to cool.

Its dyno pending. Mine max'd out along with the injectors at ~180rwkw. Not boost related. Airflow related.

You could have a car running 400rwkw on the std afm. It just means from the point of where it max's out until that 400rwkw its going to bog and feel lazy as its going to be pretty damn rich. It will still make the power without problems and be reliable providing the tuner plays safe with afr's.

The std afm will max out just over 200rwkw. At that point the afm will no longer tell the ecu how much more air is entering the motor. You can tune it by simply dialing in the correct afr at the maxed out load point however there's 2 draw backs. 1. Example. ~200rwkw is made on 8psi and 16psi makes 260rwkw. The std AFM max's out at 8psi and 200rwkw. The load point used when the afm is maxed out will have to have a heap of fuel thrown in to it and a little ign timing pulled as the ecu won't know more air is entering the motor after 8psi/~200rwkw. 1. What this means is from 8psi/200rwkw until just before 16psi/260rwkw the afr's and ign. timing aren't going to be optimal. 'Possibly' resulting in a car that feels a little lazy should boost not flick through this boost range quickly. 8psi to 16psi.. I think you won't have anything to really worry about as it 'should' flick straight to 16psi or so once it has at 8psi on board. A car with a suitable afm may have its boost build feel just that little bit snappier as it will have the correct ign and afr's to get the most power to the ground during this boost build time. 2. Those cold nights when the air is dense. As the afm is maxed out and unable to tell the ecu the air is denser (more air entering the motor) its still going to be dialing in the same amount of fuel as if the air was less dense. As a result the car will run leaner. The tuner would have to setup the afr's just that tad bit richer to allow for this. So to answer your question in short.. The Z32 will aid reliability and aid turbo spool/boost transition as your able to get the ign. and fuel spot on. HOWEVER... 260rwkw isn't too far away from where the std afm max's out so it may be that the afr's and ign are pretty damn close anyway so the gains will be basically nothing. If it were close to 300rwkw, I'd think thats too much of a jump. Ask Hitman or grab another tuners opinion on what I have said.. They tunes the things every day so they will know first hand.