Cubes

Thats definitely no good. Does SK run a dry sump in the RB30DET race cars? I remember he had mention of on that was up around 650bhp.

I'm fairly nervous with my pump. No crank collar and its clocked up some where around ~45000km's. I went the std rb25det pump as I remember at the time my thinking was the N1 pump with its higher relief will place greater pressure on the small crank drive. Just pure bad luck R33_racer.. Are you running an ATI balancer?

Its not pinging is it? Get it up against a guard rail and have a listen. Or just drop it on the dyno for a power run. That will let rip a puff of unburnt fuel.

Sad too hear... Head down mallala on their practice days. It costs bugger all and is much much more fun than the hills.

What makes you think its a VG30? The R34 and VG30 turbo's are identical from the outside, the difference being the vg30 runs the small rb20 compressor wheel where as the r34 turbo runs a big motha comp wheel. There is a tip to identifying the sound of one... The VG30 spools quieter, more like a little buzz where as the RB20 and rb25 turbo's are louder and have more of a whooshing sucking sound, the reason for this is their comp cover inlet design. Essentially from greatest power to less... 1. R34 GTT Turbo 2. R33 Turbo (Series 2 turbo's make same power just spool a little better) 3. VG30 Turbo 4. RB20 Turbo And if your after maximum response with an ever so slight trade off in peak power... The R33 Series 2 turbo. Will still make up around 190rwkw on 14psi. Don't be thinking if you throw a pfc in to yours you will make more peak power.. It won't, where you are at is where it will approximately stay. It will however pick up mid range, spool slightly earlier and be quicker simply because there is greater average power. How often are you at your peak power rpm compared to the rpm accelerating TO that peak power rpm. EDIT: I see Steve is lurking around SAU quite a lot lately... Are you thinking about jumping back in to a Skyline Steve? hehe

Please tell us more. Simply stalling? Does it cut when your driving.. just loose all power come to a stop on the side of the road, start her up and your off again? Stalls approaching traffic lights/gearing down etc? Cruising along does it buck? Then in a similar fashion stall if at low rpm? Off the top of my head.. Regardless of if things have been replaced or not when its playing up: Check AAC 'solanoid' is working correctly Check pwr steerpump idle up is working correctly Check a/c idle up is working correctly Check Cas Check fuel pressure Check vacuum leaks Check all earths. Swap out ecu's

9:04pm... Thats night time. Don't use the revision mirror at night to tell if you are blowing smoke or not as it always looks as if you are, especially with head lights behind you. Get the other half to drive the car and you drive behind. Best and most accurate way to test. Providing she is familiar with the car and isn't freaked to boot second. I've always seen a slight haze in the revision mirror when booting it at night with the person behind with their lights on.

Ignore the torque figure, its actually tractive effort. Gearbox and tyre size change the tractive effort reading. AFR and Boost are much more interesting to read for us mob.

Definitely with Sinista on this one. Buy a car already modded. They are tough cars, I wouldn't be too worried about the car being thrashed. Personally I would be more concerned with how the body and interior is compared to how healthy the motor is. The gearbox.. bah.. tough as nails. Diff. same but they do tend to get a little loose (single spin) in their old age. I would much prefer to buy a car with a pfc, fmic, injectors, turbo and have to spend $$ on rebuilding the motor, end up with a much better car with nice internals.

Well not really.. The thread did die until I decided to try blocking off my bov.. I posted my experience. After driving the car last night and today for in total a good few hours I so much like the less lag between gears and how much quicker it spools. With a larger turbo that lags a little more I think no bov would be a good thing. In my case I'm going to have to go back to having a bov as its just too harsh when driving in traffic. I'm 100% convinced running a bov actually increases gear change lag. It still freaks me out how blocking off the bov has removed that fraction of a second delay before it boosts again. But unfortunately I can't handle the roughness at low 2000rpm gear changes when its making reasonable boost. You rb20 and rb25 blokes probably won't experience what I'm seeing as if loaded up I get the boost in by under 2000rpm, not loaded up it comes on hard at 2000rpm, ~2200rpm with a bov.

What turbo was bbe running on it before the slide turbo?

Overfueling... Just because there's a little haze of black it doesn't mean its running rich. Mines been tuned to a 12:1 afr and I can see an ever so slight haze. To see this completely ignore the night time revision check as it really shows it up badly. Get some one else (the other half) to drive the car with you in pursuit.

Do remember if you can't do the installations your self add labour on top. Its a general figure. Those parts are based on ordering through nengun, perfectrun, greenline. Google those names,.

The GT30 has scope for a little more power. Or you could look at a simple bolt on unit such as the GCG Highflow that are well known to make a solid 250rwkw andwont require the added cost of intake and and dump pipe mods. How much... well Powerfc 1k.. injectors 800, ebc (run the pfc ebc if u want cheap or something like an Avcr) 400-800, intercooler.. the cheap just jap style do the job so ~400-600, fuel pump 220 ish Don't bother with a bleed valve for boost control unless your sticking to the stock turbo.

The mod list are a little out of order from what I would do. A pod won't give you more power on a turbo car UNLESS your well in to the 200rwkw range as the stock air box isn't a restriction until then. It will give you a fast noise though. So in this order. Exhaust Fuel pump Boost Controller Inter cooler PowerFC (ECU) Injectors Turbo upgrade (GT30r .63 Internal Gate from Garrett) Then start looking at a pod

How are you seeing the smoke? Revision mirror? I know at night I can see a cloud of something from mine once it comes on boost.. Especially if theirs headlights behind. I've sat behind mine with the other half driving, interestingly I can't actually see anything apart from the a little bit of over fuelling.

lmao.... I'm still AMD at the moment. My little linux box is dead, so I'll need to get another one together. Most likely upgrade and use the current madaz p4 4.05ghz killer (AMD xp3200+) as the linux box/game server box. hehe

A lot of the rb30 blokes are running precision hypereutectic pistons with either nissan or king bearings, some run acl. Apparently the acll hypereutectic pistons are shiet. There's a bloke here on sau s3girl, he's been pushing 373rwkw through his rb30 running std bearings, bolts and hypereutectic pistons with a GT40 bolted on the side for quite some time, I believe rev cut is around 7k.

This threads turned in to a wasteland type thread.

Guilt Toy.. Any idea why the bottom end had such a catastrophic failure? There must be a reason, not just because it was a stock bottom end. If number 6 had spun... Usually that's a sign of rod bolt stretch from my understanding? What rings are you going to look at this time around? King have a good rep with the rb30's. However its a must they run the HP bimetal bearings as trimetals are crap in a performance application.

Hows the police over in WA steve? A little easier than over here?

It has been done. It requires modification of the rb30 crank (destroke), rb25/26 rods and custom pistons. All though not optimal as the rods would experience greater side load and the piston pin height is bugger all. But it has been done and appears to work well. I believe the bloke made some where up around 400rwkw and had 8000rpm on board. I'm curious as to how well its holding together some months down the track. The bloke who did it I believe is mark99. He's in Adelaide.

Pinky's BF.. Nope. Don't know a pinky. Regarding the ip.. so.. grab another ip and make an apology and take it on the chin.

As I mentioned in a previous post.. People wouldn't have stirred and had some fun at his expense if he chose to deal with the situation as an adult. But more to the point...... He still hasn't got back and stated how his oil pressure situation is on low rpm and idle. So until he starts to try and work through what it may be with an open mind he will continue to have people poke sticks at him. He should take it on the chin like a man and get back to us. Shit happens, its as simple as that.

I'm certain bumping idle and the fuel cut recovery rpm would sort the occasional stall issue. I'm going to drive around on it for a few days and see how it goes. Your are 100% on the mark regarding response. Definitely much nicer through the hills.