Cubes

Where did your friend hear that from? Rhere's defect stations as the weather warms up for years. Years back when I was in my teens from around 15-16 (~10years ago) they used to sit down both Hindley and Rundle street. Occasionally on Anzac highway near the tennis courts. Those were the days.. lol Hands up for those that remember the car park at the end of Anzac highway Glenelg.

0.8mm plug gap.. if that no fix rip the center coil cover off, take the car for a spin to get it hot then come home and carefully look for little flashes of light around your coils. If they flash your coils are nackered and u need new ones.

Yep really makes you wonder if a bit of pssh noise is worth the expense of returning your car back to near stock and spending $$ on possible bushes, any oil seeps etc just to get it through the inspection.

Garrett have their GT30 and GT35r int. gate turbine housings available now.

I too have rung around all the major Adelaide workshops and they don't want a bar of it. Rip the head off they say. If you find some one to do it, my plans may change. heheh don't want to give it a shot yourself after the cam gear install????

Agreed.. Even calling it a GT3082 is crap as there's different trim comp wheels. It was the 82mm 56t comp wheel. HKS as you probably know ran the 82mm 50t wheel. As what to use.. the GT30r 76mm 56t or the GT30r 82mm 50t (providing you can find some one to part it together) I really don't know. I do know the HKS3037S (76mm 56t) .87 with its Portshroud comp cover pushed out 323rwkw with slightly over 20psi, rb25 with cams on Boostworx dyno. This was a few years back on Steve's car. So the 76mm 56t compressor 'can' flow the air and given that the motor is setup appropriately. Its too hard, what do trust have to offer?

Roy, Where does yours come on now? around 4k? The GT35r will lag more than that.. Throw the GT30 on it, decent cams, exhaust manifold, 3.5" exhaust, headwork and you should get close if not crack high 200's. Freebaggin was pushing 280rwkw on 17psi through his GT3040 on Boostworx dyno, then upped boost to over 20psi, a few other bits and pushed out 313rwkw. It was also running a molested VLT type .63 internal turbine housing. Sounds almost impossible given the .63 but worked. Was apparently not much laggier than stock.

I've thought about a warning buzzer, not sure if killing ignition is the way to go, probably just better off with a buzzer so you can drop it in neutral asap. Providing you don't forget about the buzzer, it goes off and you think wtf is that, by the time you remember its too late anyway. Kill ignition and it may lock the rears mid corner or something silly.

Try to grab a tripod or something to sit the camera on then change the shutter/iso speed. You can grab some awesome night shots that way. If it throws the white balance out be sure to set it manually,. I took these two shots on a cappy HP 735 3.2mp Camera. Shutter speed at night makes for some very nice pictures. A good SLR also makes a hell of a difference. My sister is a professional photographer and the pictures her Digital SLR takes are simply awesome. You really see how the average camera loses the crisp realistic look of a photo.

lol.. I grew up down south with Moana and Silversands beach at my disposal. Went to the extent of chipping in with another 2 mates and bought a cheap old Galant, used it as a little rally car. Awesome fun and experience and ended up throwing a rod.

Just taking the piss..

He refused to answer or accept that there may be an underlying issue with his car as its been rev'ing to 9500rpm for donkeys.

Very nice.. Boost creep or ?

ohhhhhhh You have a Ferrari Enzo???? lol

He was mistaken... I made recommended MTQ (Dynamic Turbochargers) for a SA based turbo company to another member as I know of one car that has been running around with a bush rb20t highflow for some years now and has had no problems. bbe jumped in to the thread saying they were shit, he installed one and it stuffed up straight away. In bbe's other thread he claimed it was a gcg highflow that he had, I made mention of that and he later said he made a mistake and it was MTQ.. If one had such a problem with a turbo and it wasn't covered under warranty I sure as hell know I wouldn't easily mistake them for another company that sound nothing like them. Especially GCG that isn't even in Adelaide. But thats just me, just fishy thats all. He's not very clear communicating his thoughts, just rambles. I saw an interesting bumper sticker today. "Why is it those with closed minds always open their mouth"

Where does the aftermarket boost guage take its reading from? If the stock gauge is reading different the first place to check is the vacuum hose that runs to the map sensor. Its very common for the hose running to the map sensor to split. Mine and many others have had the hose split where it connects to the map sensors nipple. The map sensor will be located on the drivers side to the left of the brake booster. The vacuum is within the plenum, so check all hoses running to it, inlet manifold gasket, plenum gasket, t/b gasket etc. Ignore the bov and inlet piping as that won't alter the vacuum gauge reading

Lets see what r33_racers failure was caused by before we go jumping the gun.

Yep the std recirc bov is there for emission reasons.

Could very well have been. The car was after all as Andrew said, smashed up pretty badly. She may have got it wrong.

Buy the Geneuine VRS kit that come with cam seals, headgasket (that u can sell off), rocker cover gaskets, inlet/exh gaskets, plenum gaskets, valve stem seals and a few other little bits. They are worth ~$280 from Nissan. I priced up a set of valve stem seals from nissan for $330. :S

Slow in fast out and its pretty hard to go wrong.

As you have been playing with the inlet plumbing check ALL IC hoses. Ensure one hasn't popped off. However, To test the CAS: Disconnect the fuel pump Remove the CAS Turn the ignition to the on position (all dash lights showing) Now place your ear near the injectors as you spin the crank angle sensor in the direction the motor would spin. Apart from that all you can do is throw a multimeter on the cas to see if its working.

R33_racer.. On a more cheerful note.. This new motor. Anything you would have done different? Higher static comp? Lower? Interestingly I remember the Gibson motor sport GTR ran quite a high static comp. 9-9.5:1 I think it was. Can't remember exactly.

Even though the skyline std bov is recirc you can still hear it. Especially if the car runs a pod.

Give regency a ring. I did some time ago and was told you are not allowed to touch anything that is concerned with the bov, being; the bov its self, the cross over pipe, the pipe that runs from the bov to the turbo inlet pipe AND the turbo to afm inlet pipe.