Cubes

No jerkyness, no dead spots nothing just smoot, like factory. it was all perfect.. Mine was on the rb20det pfc and this other dudes was on the r33 ecu. mr_rbman also ran his in on the stock rb20 ecu. Ran started and drove fine. Prior even with the rb20det I had a cold start issue that too carried over to the rb30det where it would fire then stumble. The only fix was the pfc. I would have most definitely noticed any drivability issues as I ran the stock ecu on it for 10,000km's. I've got vids of it driving.. Nice and smooth, if anything it felt as if it was punchier off idle with the stock ecu vs the pfc.

Seat pressure is only one measurement. There's also open pressure. The RB20det valve springs are the same as the r32 rb25de, the big factor here is the rb25de runs larger valves so more difficult for the valve springs to control, in n/a they are fine, push a bit of boost and exh. back pressure in to the equation that places pressure on the back of the valve to hold it open and this is where you begin to run in to trouble. Read around half way down of the following doc. http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=5

Why would it be lean? Airflow is relative, it sucks x volts through the afm it drops in y amount of fuel. On the stock ecu my afr's on cruise and light throttle etc were all perfect, on boost as I said prior it would fuel cut. Another bloke in the early days of rb30det conversions simply dropped a rb30 bottom end under his r33 rb25det head, all still with stock inj, ecu, turbo etc.. AFR's were all good. Ran fine and with a slight increase in cas ign. timing it made close to 200rwkw, same as the rb25 he had prior just with a lot more area under the curve.

I believe the std GTR turbo's are also journal.

Agree'd really it is speculation.

I haven't actually seen the ecu thread on calaisturbo. The RB30DET actually runs fine behind an rb25det ecu, on boost afr's are quite nice and it simply just runs. Providing the motor has been setup with factory like squish/quench there 'shouldn't' be an issue passing emissions on the stock ecu. The Rb20DET ecu however struggles as its airflow map has not been designed to see anywhere near the airflow levels the 3ltr pushes at low rev's. as a result it fuel cuts very early in the piece with only 6-7psi on a stock rb20det turbo. Then there's the cost of an emissions test.. So as Nismoid put it.. not feasible/possible EDIT: I'm having a read of the ecu thread now. http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.p...t=ecu+emissions

warpz0r, my understanding is passing emissions does not necessarily mean absolute best fuel economy (hence your lean comment). Ign and afr's affect the levels of different gas the motor expels. It must be tuned correctly; and emissions test is not done on boost, so plug in the stock ecu and pass that emissions test. Thats my limited understanding.

Thats how much I was quoted... It 'may' have been a workshop loyalty price. Others may walk in and get charged more.

Hot shutdowns cause the oil to coke. Do this enough the lines/turbo will eventually coke up and oil flow will be restricted; its quite possible the BB turbo's get away with this a tad longer as they don't require as much oil.

Vange, Don't take this as digging at your post as its nothing of the like; but isn't it a bad time to invest due to slow market growth? I would have thought the best time to invest is prior to the booms.

Overboosting tells us nothing. How did it fail? Bearing failure? Was it a high flow or complete garrett unit? journal or ball bearing? I think most turbo places have had issues in the past... ATS being one of them.

Thanks for the few tips and analysis... A few little traps there I wasn't aware of.

Andrew, Curiosity.... IF one doesn't need a deposit to buy a house would you still recommend saving up a deposit? You know the old school save a deposit for your house etc.. I the view that saving a deposit is a waste of time IF you can get a loan without the need for a deposit (graduate loan, garantor etc). My reasoning being; you save for a year or two, within that year or two the value of a house will rise. Instead of enjoying the increased value of your property if you origionally purchased it you are now having to foot the bill and pay more for that property, so essentially wasting your deposit. Also.. Any chance you could throw up a market analysis chart of Moana? I like the sea side of commercial road.

Dynamic Turbochargers / MTQ are a good mob to see in Adelaide. http://www.mtqes.com.au/Locations.htm

Autospeed have a review. http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2029/article.html EDIT: I've done a little measuring and as my sump sits slightly lower due to lowering the motor it looks as if the tap could be cleaned up as it will hang lower than the cross member. A little bit of a concern should I have to mount a gutter to drive up some where, which I often do at the oldies place. The std engine height should not have the issue I will have so the rest of you; fear not. Bugger... I almost always drop the sump plug in the oil and have to go fishing.

Hows the std manifold setup or do they run headers? You may be able to easily modify the std manifold or the pipe that runs from it. I considered this on an old asthmatic 82 626 mazda.. Then the motor died.

I have checked a few turbo's out in the past. All have a tinny little side to side and in and out movement. Only very small amounts. Spin the shaft very slowly and listen/feel for any little grabs or crunchiness. Apart from that its fairly difficult to tell the condition of it, especially seals, the only turbo that was 'almost' perfectly clean is the vg30 turbo I picked up a little while back, the stock item that came off was fairly dirty but showed no signs of dumping oil through the ic piping. When I say dirty I'm looking at the plate and you see when the comp cover is pulled off. Chances are its a bush bearing... Don't let that worry you with regards to spool as bl4ck32's rb20det bush highflow that runs larger comp and turbine wheels spools quicker and better response than my stock bb vg30det turbo. Thats on a 3ltr, on a smaller motor the lag may have a greater difference and make the turbo feel lazy.

Depends if you like diesel power and lack of rev's, it 'can' be done but isn't worth while when you consider the cost in modifying the head.

We will be in. Without me looking back what date has been set?

Can you send the pm again.. I lost :S a whole heap a week or two back and yours may have been in it.

I'm sure many will agree with me.. 220-230rwkw is actually not that fast... 250rwkw+ is whats needed. The R32 Rb25de will be fine. Be sure to change the valve springs.

The trick to running a high comp on pump fuel is to ensure there is minimal back pressure. Correct turbo selection. The reason big turbo's make more power on the same boost level has everything to do with uncorking the hot side allowing the motor to expel its gas much easier, as there is less back pressure much less of the nasty hot already burnt charge sits around in the combustion chamber waiting to 'dirty' the new clean charge. So less back pressure = better cylinder filling = bigger bang less back pressure = less dirty charge left behind that contaminates the new charge, the contaminated new charge is heated and as a result either less ignition advance needs to be run or a higher grade fuel used. A GT42 running 20 odd psi on an na 10.2:1 bottom end is quite possible. Thats not looking at large cams that bleed off cylinder compression and once again improves ve (cylinder filling). A stock turbo with a steel wheel pushing 20odd psi. Not likely. shorty, I'll be keeping an eye on how you go down boostworx. Shall be interesting. What turbo are you running?

Any more vids of it hauling a little more arse than before? I'm assuming youve ventured in to reving it out a tad more?

Simply stroking out a motor only increases average power, it doesn't increase peak power.

No probs.. I missed the old mans call yesterday. Interestingly I now no longer have what I thought was lifter pump up where after a hard rev it would drop a cylinder. Instead it now has little pops through first, second occasionally pops and third & fourth never pops. As with a wot through third & fourth bring it hard up on boost in any gear with the foot on the brake and there are zero signs of ignition break down. Who knows... Any way.. I'm stoked, It now pulls damn well to 6k where as before I was shifting up at around 5k in fear of what I thought was lifter pump up. <who knows> Any time during this week is fine, I'm still a Uni bum so left me know when your available.