Cubes

Will double check. I did rip them all out one by one but have plenty of time on my hands so I will do it again. I've opened up the ecu and nothing appears burnt, I've looked real closely at everything and it all appears aok. Doesn't mean it is though. Why don't car manufacturers slap in a big arsed diode to protect the stupid. argg.

How did you burn the track? TV repairer and the likes should be able to fix that fairly easily.

I did something stupid... Very stupid. It was a little dark and hooked up the new battery reversed. It touched sparked and I instantly pulled it off. She blew the main 75amp fuse and a 10am fuse in the car, the 10amp fuse has something to do with the dash lights as they dissapeared but now are back after replacing the fuses. There's no pfc display and no fuel pump prime also. Car spins over but she doesn't fire. I've noticed there's no more relay click down near where the ecu resides, I have a bad feeling its the ecu. Damn friggin stupid me.

He ppls. I'm after a good some one who's on the ball electronics repairer...

With regards to the ecu pinouts.. From memory I believe the r32 and r33 had 2 differences in the pin outs, again from memory I'm sure 2 of the inj. outputs (or was it coil) were required to be swapped. So essentially this is what they have done.

Erm.. look at all the pictures..

Hi ppls, I pulled the pfc out of the car today to check it out as I did something silly causing me to also replace 1 main 75amp fuse and a 10amp fuse, well... silly doesn't do me justice, I would like to call my self .... a stupid f*cking mental retarded dumb sh*t. Now that I've got that off my chest back on topic. I've attached a few pics, what I've found interesting is there's an RB25 stamp in there and a couple of the ecu pins have been rewired. I'll edit the post after I trace what numbers they are and what they do.

Yes as the saying goes.. The minority spoil it for the majority. GTSTD1, From your perspective, what is it generally that causes an officer to pull over a car for a general check? Lowered, big exhaust milo tin looking things or do you simply do a quick history check?

This too is my fear. Its so obvious, I can't believe that Ran hasn't completely thought this through. I think back to when I was in my teens, its sad to say but I believe I would have been one of the idiots that do try and get away for the fear of my car being impounded. I was silly when I was in my teens and did loose my license for 6months and copped a $548 fine Loosing my licence for that 6 months really did slow me down, even now creeping up to 10km/h or doing something silly I look and think, its simply not worth the lack of transport. Since the incident I've only ever been done speeding twice (~10km/h) and never been picked up for doing anything silly, thats in 10years worth of driving. Loosing my license did slow me down and I can say it worked on me. If I were to also have my car impounded... It really wouldn't have made any difference, I would have still learnt. I believe as the imports become cheaper (sub 10k) the younger teens will buy them and owning an import will be a nightmare. I do believe this is happeneing now, so often I see a cop slow down, slip in behind do the usual number plate check, realizing I have nothing on my record in the last 5 years, 26 and then zip off again. This is the first car that I haven't lowered and to be honest, I get less attention in it than I do my old VS 5ltr Commodore that was lowered with big wheels. Once in the Commodore I was pulled over, they did the usual tyre checks and then asked where my stash was.. I was like wtf... no stash buddy and continued to laugh shaking my head, he opened the glove box shoved his hand in to the glovy and pushed everything on to the floor. I had done zilch to deserve it, just cruising along home from work at 11pm at night feeling completely stuffed. There's no real need to lower a car anyway, one can get it handling nice and tight with good bushes, shocks and swaybars. Well the r32's at least, the 33's stock suspension feels considerably softer.

I've ran a 0.8mm gap using BCPR6E's since day one, the platnium 5's 1.1mm gap came out, copper 6's 0.8mm went in, felt exactly the same. Same fuel economy. Would boost up and off I went for 150,000km's (210,000km's total) in 4.5yrs.

I'm sure it wasn't me, Haven't been near Fullarton rd since last weekend.

I've looked around quite a bit, looked at a tonne of compressor maps and with a little direction from Discopotato I really like the idea of the GT40 82mm 50trim comp wheel on a the GT35R .82. I believe the GT40 82mm 50trim comp wheel is what HKS use in their HKS3040. http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...82_452232_5.htm Slightly better response and spool from the 50trim wheel over the 56trim 82mm comp wheel. There's so many little hybrids you can throw together. Throwing a big compressor on a restrictive hot side doesn't work all that well with the rb30's, they tend to flatten out up top and peak power rpm falls short due to high back pressure resulting in lower VE. Similiar to what happens with a GT2510 on an RB20, Chris's RB20DET running the GT2510 makes its peak power around 5500rpm when he ups the boost, it then noses over, reduce the boost and it makes its lesser peak power higher up in the rpm. One could make it more responsive again by dropping on a GT30R 76mm 56trim comp wheel but the only thing that disturbs me with that combo is the compressor speed vs how much air it pushes.. I don't completely understand the correlation and how it affects compressor performance if it were to be attached to the slower spinning but more torque gt35r turbine wheel.

Disco, I run a 1 tonne 9puk Extreem clutch, its very drivable has a really nice bite but is a tad heavy, not too heavy to get used but do bear in mind I am used to heavy clutches. When I bought mine it was recommended by my old tuner (Tim Possingham) who had one in a 2JZ supra making a tad over 300rwkw, whatsisname also has one in his built rb25 making slightly under 300rwkw and they have both held up fine. I've clocked 40,000km's on it and upon inspection last gearbox it still looks near new, the flywheel is looking a little hacked though, not suprising as the clutch is ceramic. Quite impressed with it to be honest, if I were to replace it I would consider the lighter 800kg pressure plate. What I like about it most... The grab. Or there's always the Jim Berry clutch that every one raves about. A downside of the heavy clutch is damage to the pedal box, they have a habbit of breaking the welds, touch wood there's no problems yet but once I feel the signs I will pull it out and weld it up before any major damage occurs.

Unfortunately it has to be done prior to assembly. After that, use which ever oil pump you want, except for the rb30 item.

My stock R32 ecu ran the car fine but would ping a little as boost came on, it would then fuel cut at around 7psi. So not very fun. But perfectly fine for the run in, just wire open the wastegate and give it lots of throttle.

Cruiseliner, Here's a dyno chart of an rb30 vs the rb25 running a gt3040 .82. I believe it was running 1bar. It doesn't appear to die off too badly but obviously won't be flicking to 7500rpm.

hehe sounds good... Poker night at Vanges.. leave 3am.. let the cars idle for 5 minutes and off we all leave over a period of 20minutes.. 1 car leave every few minutes.. lmao.

This was exactly my worry after spending so much on mine. I really kick my self, I should have done similiar to sky30, picked up a $50 RB30e that was running dropped a head on it and off I go. The thing is the rb30 I picked up for $150 had 170,000km's on it, running had good compression and was spotless when it was pulled apart, and I went a rebuilt it.. what a waste.

I think its all timing.. I had mine up for sale for ages..

I flogged my old one off for 175 inc. head. Had 145 through all 6 cylinders.

Interesting, what year is it. Mines late 92.

I don't think I've heard an R32 that doesn't have the odd ever so slight pop on idle. I'm not sure you could really call it a miss as a miss is very pronounced. From what I've been able to fiddle with the only way to completely remove it is to richen up the idle afr to a shade over 14. I only noticed my occasional pop on idle once I had the exhaust fitted.

My oil pressure is quite a bit higher than that, my oil pump is 'supposed' to be an rb25det pump. First thing in the morning no matter what oil I use its up over the 8, well the only oil that was around 7.5 was the 10w30 castrol. The idle is it sits on 2.

I had a little jap 280cc in mine, that lasted 4years before it came out. It spun the rb20det over fine but did struggle with the rb30. I dropped an exide 480cc in to mine and 1yr later its started making a bubbling noise from the left side of the battery, its also started leaking every where. It does have an ever so slight dent in the top as due to its crappy handle design the clamp doesn't have an edge so to speak to clamp down on, instead placing more weight in the center. I don't think they will replace it under warranty but for now off to the wreckers for a cheap s/h $20 battery until it comes back from the exide bloke looking at it.

wow $25 pump.. shiet.. The aftermarket item I bought was $83, there were slightly cheaper items but didn't come with gaskets and lacked warranty and a quality finish. There's also a few different aftermarket variants. I've seen one that has 'one' elongated hole that has the provision for the rb25det.