Cubes

Ring around local import wreckers... I picked mine up for $30 or there abouts, was cheaper than I expected.

As I mentioned in my origional post I used the fuel pumps origional feed as the trigger, works much better and safer than simply using your ignition source. If the car stalls the fuel pump won't keep pumping, if you were in an accident having the pump continue to pump could lead to a very nasty fire. This is what I used... 8GA Cable 8GA has a total diamater of ~6.5mm, the 4ga was simply too thick and overkill, + crimp connectors were not available for easy relay and fuel pump connection. Big arsed fuse holder I have several spare fuses just in case one day.... Its mounted up near the hicas controller under the rear parcel shelf.

Madaz, As witht he last game held I had issues with the password working from xfire, I had to use the bf2 in game browser to login to the server.

I ran a 60amp horn relay as I had suitable 8ga I believe it was connectors for it.

I might jump on later on.. The other halfs brother had his little boy christened so obviously I am rather pissed at the moment. I should be fine by 9.

It won't be vct. Its just a patch up that happens to hide the real problem, checked cam timing?

Your definitely on the mark with the theory. The reason I mentioned hairline cracked spark plugs is when I did it the car idled perfectly and even boosted perfectly up until 5000rpm where it developed what felt like a slight flutter/miss, it held that flutter/slight miss until around 6500rpm where it all of a sudden cleared up and pulled strong again. I cracked the spark plugs by using a swivel trying to work around not removing the cross over pipe. So in some respects it can feel like what I have experienced with stuffed coils when running too much boost. The BIG give away the coils are stuffed is it usually appears fine when cold then as the engine bay warms up the miss on boost becomes much much worse.

You said you gapped your plugs down. Didn't do what I did once... Accidently put a hairline crank in the ceramic? I had the plugs in and out 3 times before the crack was big enough that I noticed it. So check the plugs next time they are out.

I doubt a lean missfire. I should not have mentioned it. Almost always a missfire is caused by incorrectly gapped plugs or buggered coils and occasionally a stuffed ignitor. If you have a lot of cabin noise its even easier to hear detonation, detonation is what you hear from little old lady cars when they labour the motor pulling out of a corner. Chances are its a coil... get them sorted then I personally would simply drop a fuel pump in it and wind 14-15psi in to it. It will be plenty rich everywhere, probably a little too rich and will kill power slightly. The reason I wouldn't throw it on the dyno and push the std fuel pump to the limit is it is old, as it gets older its gets lazier so will eventually lean out. On the dyno... 30mins should do it all though they will most likely charge you an hour. Really depends on the workshop and how they treat their customers.

Get it on a dyno and ensure its not leaning out. Especially if your running the stock pump. If you can't afford a new pump its simple.. either drop it on the dyno and setup boost safely or don't push your limits as you WILL be up for a new motor if it is leaning out, chances are it will be if the pump hasn't been replaced. So its $100-$200 to setup the bleeder on the dyno or $200 odd for a small bosch pump and install it yourself. I know what I would do but that really depends how much research you are willing to do. Anything can be Accomplished with research. My stock pump died a few years back when trying to push more than 12psi, went mega lean, couldn't really tell. Which is why old fuel pumps are so dangerous. There is a thing called a lean miss-fire, all though you generally notice det. well before that. Failing all that.. Coils, which are expensive.

Well thats one difference between the AP Engineering items then... Mine won't run with it enabled.

Platinum, If you can let shaun know that you had to bump the cranking time up that would be great, I've told him in the past but may have forgot. I'll tell him again also.

Which value did you use for the +10? I now have mine at 35ms and very happy with the way it starts. I've found a couple of little bugs in the pfc that I find it hard to replicate. If I start the car and accidently touch the accel. while doing so OR almost stalling the car straight after starting the pfc appears to forget exactly where to apply the fuel cut. It doesn't always do this but when doing the above is the only time when it may. I slightly raise rpm and it fuel cuts until idle rpm then raises rpm again then fuel cuts. Driving the car when its like this causes the car to jerk and cut out horribly giving you the feeling its going to stall, but it wont. The fix.. Pull over, turn the car off and restart it. Drive off and its fine. As I said it only appears to do it when I do one of: Touch the accel while starting, or 'almost' stalling the car almost immediately after starting the car. I came across the stalling the car bug when I had set the water temp correction maps too lean causing the car to almost stall when taking off at low rpm. Unsure if other pfc's do it but my ap engineering one sure does.

The video settings are critical for decent non-choppy game play. The new crapola 1.3patch is really nasty, world wide constant server crashes and 'connection problems'. Not to mention the bad arsed incorrectly displayed opponent, some times it shows them as red when its actually your own team member. :S Another bug the 1.3 patch has introduced is if you bail out of a helli 'just' before its blown up it states you killed the other team members in the helli that died.. lmao.. But apart from that I swear the new patch has reduced the map loading times.

rb30 85mm stroke x 86mm bore

Even with a GTST you have to do those things... the cars are getting old now and need work on the a/c, bushes and general wear and tear items.

I must say I really do envy the gts4 + rb30 combo.

Best bet is a front face plenum. If you want it to look std. the only way is to lower the engine a little.

lol.. I'm suprised it starts with the boost control enabled if you don't have the pfc ebc. Mine starts then lumps and stalls.

I found with measurements the closest point was the front of the plenum then as it moves back the clearance increases a little.. But not by much as a simple throttle body hose clamp sitting up will touch the bonnet underlay or what ever it is. Get to it FOOLBOOST.. You have another plenum there should you go through it. :S

The best tips in the world really could not have helped what happened, it was simple bad luck. Kym, I'm not sure if you watched the news or not but apparently they got their little diagram wrong, Madaz didn't pull out then pull back in behind the 4wd, they were in the right lane cruising along when madaz saw the festiva, madaz gave it all she had and ripped it in to the left lane in front of the 4wd, the festiva continued on to clean up drews car. Please correct me if I am wrong as this is my understanding from the recent thread as it was a little hazy.

I first resize then crop as not to stretch the image and make it look wonky as vange's currently does.

The size is incorrect by the looks.

This morning coolant temps were 10degree's. I pushed the +10 up to 35ms, it took ~1second of turning over for it to spring in to life. There was no spluttering just a nice vrooom up to 1500rpm. So the values helped?

Looking at Max's there appears to be less room under the bonnet height wise than an r32 or r33. As it is I can see where its already rubbing. :S