marksuxass

I work for nissan so thats my price, but im sure your price wouldnt variate much more. Maybe closer to the 500 dollar mark? But yeah i got mine the other day. And last time i checked they were instock at the melbourne warehouse. Didnt come with the bottom lip or cooler ducts, but did come with the duct holes cut it for them to be fitted. It still baffles me how the nismo version is cheaper though? The part number is 62022 06U25. Call your local nissan dealer and see for yourself!

has anyone seen them crank under the turbos near one of the welsh plugs? Ive seen one cracked soo severly it pop the plug out.

Buy them direct from nissan, N1's are cheaper then a standard one. N1 comes with the vent holes cut out but not the lip and vents. Should be around the 400 mark, i have the part number if you need?

If you can source one, maybe even get on older rb26 out of an older r32 gtr. Apparently they have a higher nickel content much like the N1 block, minus the water galleries. And for a fraction of the cost too. This was endless-r's plan of a attack a few years ago with a clients car...

Was just wondering where you got your MAFless induction pipes from? Very nice build up so far too. Im doing a major overhaul/restore on my gtr too, will start a build thread soon

Time for a new clutch by the sounds of things

Im located in perth, so that might be an issue. But i can grab you the part number of the front bar, then drop into your local nissan dealer and see how much the can do one for? When i orderd the had them instock in melbourne

Do an amps drain test - remove the negative terminal of the battery and connect a multi meter between it, then read out how many amps you get (should be around 0.05amps) Before you do this make sure all accessorys are off doors closed etc. If its excessive start pulling fuses to identify which circuit is draining. Id start off with any aftermarket electrical items first, as there usually the first to fail or cause problems. If thats ok, check your alternator charge rate. It should charge the battery to around the 14v mark.....

I just purchased a brand new genuine nismo front bar from work (nissan dealership). Was $480. Thats pretty darn cheap considering the normal 32r bars are more expensive then that. Comes with the duct holes already cut out, but doesnt come with them. Ive also priced up the full N1 3 peice side skirts, But you could pretty much buy a small car for the amount they want for them. Matty hooked me up with some carbon rear spats for a fraction of the price (the rear part of the side skirt) and then you can just use your stock 32r skirts.

thats an abflug front air diffuser.

I know theres something you can dl off the next which does it for you. Try google image resizer. Im dying to see these pics

Nope, im pretty sure we have one in ATM. Ill raise the question with them

check resisatance through your fuel sender. It should vary as you move the float. If you get an erratic reading your sender is f**ked.

Hmm. We have had a petrol navara in at work which had a problem with using excessive oil. Liased with nissan's techline and told us to do a ECU relearn with a patch file they sent us. Apparently one of the banks reads a little leaner then the other, and this can cause excessive oil consumption. Did the relearn and its seemed to fix the problem. The info is not in the owners manual. Basically had to ask one of the nissan engineerers for the specs.

bringing the lolz

Just so you know, nissan spec for oil consumption is 1L every 2000kms. Anything higher then that is deemed unacceptable. However you blowing smoke, so i would be gettin a leak down test asap.

How is the dipstick going? did you suss out an engine stand + crane?

Knock sensor wiring should be part of your engine subharness that then joins to the engines main. But this goes into the passengers side footwell : /

Deffinatly body earths!

Thank you very much. What grade would you finish it in?

What do you use to "mirror finish" the exhaust ports and combustion chamber?

Have started the port, cleaned up the combustion chambers and got rid of 1 exhasut bump (3 flap wheels later). Would like more of a mirror finish on these items, What should i use?

Thanks for that Just purchased a long nosed 1/4 inch die grinder. Have also been recommended to grind down and knife edge the inlet port spliter? Think i might give that step a miss hahah

Never said i was gonna polish the inlet sides. 80 grit should be rough enought to aid in fuel atomisation, plus while taking out the rough edge that has been cut away from factory in the inlet bowl, i might aswell do the whole port Have been told by my tunner that you can get a much better finish doin this by hand (unless removing the quench pads). He also says that a mild port like that can be done on my own with the right abrassives and buffs. All headwork will be carried out in a credited workshop by myself

Just wanna know who has attacked this themselves, Whats the best abbrasives you found? Whats the best buff you used for the polishing? Basically im gonna have a crack at it myself, 80 grit and clean all the dags on the inlet ports and manifold match. Clean the cut and castiings out the inlet bowls. Remove exhaust bumps and mirror polish exhaust ports, and mirror polish combustion chambers.