marksuxass

if you read properly i didnt suggest tomei cooling pistons to anyone, just comparing. all i am saying is most pistons will have different heat expansion rates, tomei is one brand with the smallest of these (both cooling and non cooling).

basically just more low down torque, power figures maybe increased a little and yes turbo will possibly spool quicker depending on cams

Had the same thing happen on my rb26, number 2 had about 25 psi, and the rest around 130 psi. Have stripped the motor down to find that number 2 piston was melted around the ring land area

tomei all the way....

thats a good point, i know you can get non cooling too, and even the non cooling pistons have no slap..... http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...iston_rset.html some silent reading for you

i have some on the way, there were a few threads on gtr uk about them too, people where questioning about the piston to bore clearance, and found out it was due to how much the expand when heated, which is very minimal. There also the only piston manufacturer with cooling chanels just like the OEM rb26 and 2jz pistons

its everything to do with the brand, tomei use different forging process's and different blends of metals for there pistons, thats why you can set the piston to bore distance closer (as specified by tomei), and there not made by cosworth, ALOT of people that have visited the tomei workshop can back this up!

yeah thats why you go tomei, they dont slap

Yeah refer to the service manual for doin the proper measurements, you could have wear along the thrust faces of the bores, and because its been re honed you wont really be able to see the wear until you measure. Measuring these are crucial before you put anyting back together. Few simple steps to insure you dont build a motor that smokes its head off, and piston slaps every time whilst its cold.

First thing id be doing is measuring it all again, just to be sure it is all standard. Was there a reason why this engine was stripped down for a build? Its gonna be hard to do it at our workshop, cause we dont have any bore gauges/dial gauges. I just used an inside micrometer to give a rough measurement on my bores, plus my pistons where standard size when i pulled them out of the engine. Its going the next size oversize anyway (86.5mm) so i should have plenty of room to play. Id also get it x rayed just to be safe cause they usually crack around where the head blots go through the block along to the water jacket. But yeah just basically re measure everything again. Then start ordering parts/do more machining if need be.....

will be painting my r32 gtr the new lambo matte black very shortly. Been told it doesnt get clear spots like other mattes and is easy enough to maintain. Will post pictures once done

thinking of running tomei's in mine, would you highly recommend? also please share your piston to bore, and ring gap specs if you dont mind?

i work for nissan and prcied up a genuine N1 block the other day, figures where around the $4500 mark, and parts where available from melbourne

that would be your vacuum reserve tank for your vacumm advance for your brakes.....

Rebuilding the GT-R soon, was thinking of running tomei pistons (non cooling) with tomei rods, anyone had any experience's with these?, also any suggestion's on a good engine/head machinist in perth?