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marksuxass

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Everything posted by marksuxass

  1. The easiest way to bleed it is, run the car on the hoist with the bleed nipple cracked (make sure your ATTESA resevoir is full). The pump noise isnt too loud at all. Make sure you have a nice steady stream of fluid coming out the nipple and make sure all wheels are turning on the hoist. Hope that helps
  2. Fingers crossed you havent damaged the crank!
  3. Oh BTW how did you come to your diagnosis that the front 3 cylinders are running lean? Reading the 1st bank 02 sensor's i spose?. You sure you 02 sensor isnt faulty if soo (seeing as how most wont last 40,000kms).?
  4. 1st, test fuel pressure, but more importantly FUEL FLOW. Make sure the earth is ok for the pump.
  5. Does your engine light illuminate at all (ignition on)?. If no then you dont have a power or earth to the ECU, go through the power and grounds for the ECU if all ok, sounds like something internal in the ECU
  6. I used the Tomei throttle seal on the weekend, easy to use and highly effective
  7. Is there a definate gap between the throttle plate and housing?. If so Id recommend Using the Tomei throttle seal. Can be purcashed from HiOctane racing.
  8. Owner is now based in singapore. Was initially going to sell it, but the people interested in buying decided they couldnt finance it at the last minute.
  9. If this is the one the comes into Xspeed i can cofirm the thing is pretty sound inside/out/mechanically (have been working on this vehicle when it came in).
  10. I use to work for X speed now its closed im at Total Nissan in cannington. PM me if youd like to discuss further!
  11. Quick question, You use any oil restrictors for you tubro oil feed?
  12. You going to use any oil restrictors for the oil feed to the turbo's?.
  13. Ant scali @ Xspeed. Has built some pretty wild GTR's in his time. Having worked with him i know his very anal with everything he attacks.
  14. All the porting i did myself. Was a crack test, relieve head to suit big cams, his valve guides, race valve job think it was 3 or 5 angle, shimmed up/adjusted valve clearances and a reface.
  15. Again +1, easy to work with, and quality of works is 2nd to none
  16. Black smoke? Sounds like AFM issue!
  17. Had a Head done at headtorque by gerry. Awesome to deal with and quality of work is amazing. Highly recommend!
  18. Have done this mod numerous of times. Best way to go about it is to remove the power steering pump. Remove the rear cover off it (rear sections is the hydyaulic system for the HICAS). Here you will see a round object with little metal inserts slotted into it. These rectangular peices of metal are the vanes of the HICAS pump. Removing these inserts will stop fluid flow through the hicas system. Then you can block of the hole which feeds the HICAS lines, and remove all of the HICAS componants. You should have a loop at the front of the vehicle which can be removed, a solenoid on the front right of the engine, lines that go to the back and another solenoid at the back. If you want pics let me know!
  19. If you look closely/read what has been written in this thread, the inlet port you talk about isn't polished but finished in 80grit. Exhaust/combustions chambers have only been polished. Just doing what my tuner has suggested. See above.
  20. Heads still on my work bench and yet to be bench flowed. Have been in contact with Headorque here in Perth, and they said its not 100% critical to flow bench it as its a forced induction engine, with only minor porting done. Probly still do it anyways when I send it to get faced.
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