FordyR31

I too found that too. Ill see what price my mate can get. Any money saved just means I can get it done sooner. Already saving a heap on labour by the looks if the above offer stays as it is.

Retails for under $300, I was expecting more. A mate says he can get trade prices on Optima batteries so this might be a go. Thanks

I am in two minds as to wheather I should buy good box and cheaper battery that will do the job or just buy a decent battery to begin with. I have a mate getting back to me with some prices of the parts I need and seems like I will be able to buy those shortly, then work out which will be the best battery/boxed setup for me. The positive cable I am getting a price for is 0 guage and 00 for the earth. Luke, I did click your link to the track car last night and had a look. I read somewhere in that thread a suggestion to run the cable underneath the car. Would this be the better option? Sounds quicker also? Thanks everyone, very helpful.

In my experience I must have missed the term "certified" while people are being Scheduled.

Thanks for the advice. I did read it, just haven't had the car to a hoist yet.

Thanks for the advice. I did read it, just haven't had the car to a hoist yet.

Thanks for the advice. I did read it, just haven't had the car to a hoist yet.

It sounds like a bigger job than I had thought. Thanks for the offer. Let me get the gear together and we can go from there. Thanks! A case of jack and a helping hand is deffinitely a good price for labour. I'll try to organise a battery before anything. Most of the kits I have seen (for reference) have a shorter earth cable and about 5m of Power cable. Both are 32mm2. Does the Earth need to go to the original or is it just easier that way?

Great, Thanks for the advice and link guys. I know nothing about this sort of thing so it sounds like you just saved me a bit of money doing things twice.

Hi guys, Been looking to have my forward facing plenum installed and immediately run into this potential issue. I have been looking at the cheapest possible way to do this and it seems you can buy the kits on ebay for cheapish, roughly $100 less than quoted by a shop. The battery itself I can't get away with cheaply but just seeing if anyone here is an Auto Electrician and could possibly do the work for a cheaper price. This is the kit http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Battery-relocation-Kit-Suits-most-cars-Nissan-Holden-Toyota-Subaru-Ford-Project-/111270401141?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e83b9475&_uhb=1 It was something I had not budgeted for so trying to get as cheap as possible so I can get the car to Jez to do the rest. Thanks Liam

Sold

Bump. $600 with tyres bottom price. Sick of bumping the ad!

Bump. Slightly negotiable at $700, not by much. Pick up only.

White 34GTR in Rouse Hill. [HER 34R]. Nice car and thanks for staying back to let me merge. Most arsehole see my indicator as a challenge to fill the space.

Bump

Bump will keep the price at $700. These will fit a 31, datto's and old rollas etc that are 4x114.3 for those who may have other projects going on.

Don't you see it people? Major League Baseball!

I'm pretty careful, I haven't even rolled off a kerb or anything kerb like let alone hit anything. It all looked fairly symetrical to me. I will have a suspension workshop take a look when I can.

Hi guys, After searching and asking mates who dabble in suspension mods and coming up with nothing I write to you. The car: HR31 GTS Coupe. Coilovers are fitted and are the only suspension mod. Sway bar, lca's, tie rods etc all factory. This is a weekend and track day car so not a daily. The problem: I drove the car about two weeks ago and noticed a shudder at around 80km/h. The wheels and tyres have had a balance and allignment since the coilovers went in about 6 months ago. With the shudder came a bit of a rattle/clunk noise. My initial thought was that maybe a bush has had its day. The shudder was more aggressive than the usual wheels out of balance I have previously experienced and the noise sounded a little solid metal on metal like sound. What I have done: When I got the car home I noticed that passenger front wheel sits further inside the guard than the drivers side, going on looks the camber seems even still from the allignment. I have looked at previous pics of the car and the wheel affected looks to have sat the same as the drivers side. The camber tops are also uneven. When my mate did the wheel alligment (professionally) he said that the passenger side adjustment had to be moved right in as far as he could, this gave just over 1.5 degrees camber, the old suspension was also like this but could get 2.3 degrees. The drivers side adjustment has hardly moved off center to get the same as the passenger side. I have had the car on stands and inspected all arms/rods/bars and they look straight on both sides. All bushes seem to be in tact. The wheels feel solid and there is no movement when I try to shake them and they both spin for a while when I spin them and let them go. Has anyone come across this in their car and what was the cause of it? How did they fix it? It's a pain in the arse, I was hoping to do a track day in April but you have to pay when you book and don't want to take the car if something is wrong and lose the money. Thanks in advance.

Bump

$700 o.n.o if sold and picked up tomorrow (Sat 25th Jan).

.

Bump

Give Barrel Bros. a call in Milperra. They do wheel repairs and refurbishments. 10 Works Place Milperra 9792 3777

The parts are selling slowly. Just need someone to buy my RS-Eights and the bodykit and it's just about all gone! No problem, hope they get there quickly.