R.3.2.G.T.R

its glued on, so if u dont care bout the stock one, just pry it with a thin screwdriver, clean up the coil cover and put the new one on

after front and rear diff out of A31 4wd 4.375 ratio

yes very worthwhile mod as rb26 responds very well to it, will set u back a couple hundred but u will notice the difference, esp midrange

broken rings? Blown intake gasket perhaps?

sold pending payment

Drivers side bottom trim next to the rear seat

Could be faulty fpcm, u can earth it so fuel pump run full voltage all the time

can do, pm sent

should be, pull the fuse marked 4wd in the engine bay did u find out what was leaking - diff?? best to take to workshop so u can look under the car properly, red fluid could the attessa fluid leaking and u might be able to fix the leak the previous owner was talking about

I have a bung welded on my front pipe after the merge and wondering how everyone is running the wiring into the cabin, I don't want to go through the firewall I had look underneath passenger side but can't see anything I can work with.. Am a lil blind btw

Try empire aero

ok plz ID what this plug runs to, starter motor or alternator With it connected the drain is 0.04 and 0.02 disconnected I'm guessing that not right

pms replied the cooler is genuine and older version to the recently discontinued product

stock gtr bovs are your best option aftermarket atmo bovs can mess up your idle and will dump fuel on gear changes due to unmetered air upon venting

about 12.3v

yeah multimter tests with car started shows 14v initially but once i start losing voltage, another check with the multimeters shows voltage below 13v, when i should be seeing close to 14v will fusible link have any effect, my other option is to check all the wiring from starter / alt to battery

if monitoring with pfc h/c on startup i get 14v or so (13v at apexi turbo timer), during the drive i get 12.4-12.6v at apexi turbo timer as it starts flashing with car running my voltage should be between 13.8 - 14.8v.. i dont ever see 12.8v with car running

here we go again.. been trying to hunt down whats stopping my battery from charging properly, battery is new and alternator replaced with a known working one upon initial start i get 14v as per normal however if i drive around i can see my voltage dropping gradually with time have checked for drain which was 0.04amps which is normal alternator belt tension is fine will a missing fusible link contribute to my issue?? is the an "exciter wire" that triggers the alternator to start charging the battery? might have to end up striipng the loom back.. p.s fixed an earth point in the boot but no difference, will clean up the engine earth point tmrw what else?

nope out syd west bud

It's a spare I don't need anymore Price: $280 posted aus wide (firm)

In very good nick, originally bought from the u.k Price: $65 posted aus wide

I'll take the engine decal

saved for future reference tnx

mods plz delete thread