Emre

GTS-t VSPEC, Quoting power figures does not mean anything to me at all. You can hardly compare the readouts taken from two workshops in the same suburb, let alone interstate. The shootout mode is gaining a lot of late attention to overcome this dilemna, but as i am not too familiar with it i don't know what to make of those figures as well. Tell me what you or Rob77 achieved on the strip with the quoted figures and/so i can relate to them. I can put those against what i or my friends achieved and get a conclusion from it. SydneyKid, Does the humidty and and temperature have that much effect on the fuel requirements...? If you live in Queensland and the humidity is %70, do you need that much more legroom in your injector capacity ? It kinda explains though, why i need 124lt/hour of fuel by those calculations, but actually use 194 lt/hour.

As clear as you suggestion is, i think you fail to recognise the risks associated with it. As it was mentioned earlier a fuel reg is a band aid solution for a need of more fuel, in most cases marginally more fuel. Running the pressures that you are running on standart fuel lines would not be advisable to anyone. That's the thing; the engine does not need to be fragile to fail at those conditions. Unless you are prepeared for the worst, the outcome will leave mental scars for a while. On a different note, i am detecting a bit of a dig and sarcasm towards SydneyKid. Is there a reason behind this ? Am i missing anything ?

I am sorry, I forgot to congratulate you on your achievement. Thumbs up.

When you do let us know. The only thing that comes across as impossible is achieving that power with the stock injectors, especially at %80 duty cycle. Maybe you are running more pressure than you know through the fuel reg. The bottomline is that your setup at that power level could not be considered as conservative and safe and even though it is achievable, it's advisable to upgrade the injectors and internals. I am linking your thread with the US mentality of running 9's with a stock bottom end in a Supra.

That is fair enough; in that case did you drive your car on the street at that power level (if yes did it feel like a 120+ mph car) or did you get that reading as a one of on the dyno to see what could be had...? What sort of power did you have on the 13.5@104mph run and was it on the same dyno...?

Are you planning on taking your car to the strip...? That will tell all what sort of power level you are at. With over 300rwkw in a GTS-T you should achieve over 120 mph. I've seen 124mph with a similar power figure.

I took your advice and looked up the ooparts website. This trust headgasket is 39000 YEN on their site. At the exchange rate of 75 YEN per dollar, that translates to over $500 in Japan. Now, you'll have to explain how you figure you can get it landed here including the duties for $480.

That headgasket is 36000 YEN in Japan... ...so i would love to know how you can get it for $430 including delivery, insurance and duties. You well know that if you had to import that headgasket legitimately (including duties) it would cost you more tha $630.

and stock intercooler as well.

Yes Jack, Thinking about the Autronic or Motec.

Currently in an R33 GTR but they fit the R32 GTR as well. Comes with the hand controller and COD could be arranged. $1200. Also have a couple of Z32 AFMs with new plugs for sale $300 each.

I got mine done at the workshop so i am not able to talk you through it. There is a bit involved and insulating it against noise is a good idea as well. Bosch has a variety of pumps that will do the job. Below is a quote from Sydneykid some time ago.

Well, There is the technical explanation that metal expands when it gets hot therefore it would have more bore and volume, but it would apply to all systems on the market. Plus, i'd doubt the difference in noise would be that noticable. Mine is certainly not that different from cold to warm.

I am not entirely sure if i understood your question but what is there to be confused about if you get rid of one of your mufflers and your car is louder...? When your car is cold and you start it up, it will idle a bit higher than when hot. This would be enough to give it a different pitch in the noise. Once it warms up and settles down on idle you will hear the pulses more noticably and will sound as you described : B B B B B B ...

You don't need to look around for much longer. There are two shops that i dealt with and very highly recommend. Ben from Racepace (97629421) and ICE boys (95127591) will look after you with whatever you may need.

Bosch pumps require a litlle bit of modification to be installed in the tank and in 044 form is an overkill for a mild setup. GTR or aftermarket GTR pumps are a direct fit in comparison. Including installation, expect to pay over double for the Bosch pump.

Yes, the RB 26 is a non-interference engine, in stock form. Did you make sure to put the spacer washer between the engine and the crank angle sensor back on...? This is a common overlook if you want to expose your new cam gears and decide not to put the cover back on. If you slide the CAS without the spacer washer, it will chew the rear of the CAS out and make the noise you are describing.

How many of these AFM's do you have for sale...?

The original settings in the Power Fc is good enough to run your car around if you stay off boost. Don't line people at the traffic lights and cane your car without tuning it. If it is a second hand Power Fc, it will have the previous owner's settings in its memory and may not suit your car at all. You can reset this back to the original settings if you wish. The Power Fc comes with a basic tune to make the actual tuning process hell of a lot easier; not to plug and run without tuning.

Leewah couldn't make it because of unforseen difficulties that was had the night before. It wasn't because of not wanting to that's for sure. I was keen to make it but had to get up at 6.00 am to make it there by 10.00 am. Needless to say, it didn't happen. What are you judging that on dude...? Let me guess... You could have done better...?

Did you actually try to fit your silvia speed sensor in the box ? As illogical as this may sound, try it. Gtrs have different speed sensors in between the R32 and R33s. They only differ in the diameter of the gear and looking at it you automatically assume they are not interchangable... but they are.

Did you try your Silvia speed sensor in the RB20 box...? How different do they look when you put them side by side...?

Buying goods from private sellers over the net is a risky business. There is no protection for the buyer and you are totally relying on the seller's honesty when it comes to receiving the goods in described condition or at some cases receiving them at all. For some sort of comfort, you can ask for his address and land line number. Ring him for a bit of a chat and ask all the questions you may have about the product rather than exchanging numerous emails. If he is hesitant to give you his details do not bother even if it sounds like a killer bargain. Another one always comes up. Even COD does not cover you against any fraudulent transactions as you are not able to inspect the goods before handing over the money. If unsatisfied, Australia Post will not refund your money and you will have to take the matter up with the seller. If you are comfortable with all that you can deposit the money in his bank account manually or over the net.

From the ease of maintanance point of view, bigger the unit better it is. The bigger units would also work more effectively as well, depending on what you do with your car. The downside however is the difficulty in finding a proper spot for a big catch can. ARC make an awesome one that replaces your windscreen washer bottle, but they are quite expensive. Getting a custom one made on the same principle would be a lot cheaper and should be looked at.

Bang on. As well as being illegal, it will also make your car smell like a 1970 HQ Kingswood which is not very pleasent. They are simple in operation and will have two connections, think of it as "line in" and "line out". For it to be effective there will have to be adequate baffling in between these lines, otherwise the same oil you are collecting will find its way into your inlet. Do a search on Autospeed and you will come across articles like this one which will explain it better.