Emre

Well doen Jack, so damn close to that 11sec pass. You gotta nail those 60 footers in the 1.7s mate.

What is your setup wreckedhead...?

Funny how the benchmark is rising... You want 350kw at the wheels now hey...? Don't worry, it's all natural. 1- I have an 044 in tank, i was led to believe it was a much better option than the Nismo or Apexi alternatives. 2- Unless you are thinking about track days, an oil cooler could be perceived as unnecessary at this point. If you were thinking about track days, you'll need a bit more than an oil cooler only. Syntethic oils of today are quite capable of doing their job at the temperatures 130 C. 3- I am still running the factory intercooler and having very good results with it. I have 340kw on pump fuel and had power readings of high 300kw on race fuel. A car with similar mods to mine but with an aftermarket cooler did not have extra power on the same dyno. 4- I have a custom made oil catch can that replaces the windscreen washer bottle. 5- I have the HKS ones but can not tell you how much my car benefits from them. As they came part of the package, i didn't run stock dump pipes with 2530's.

Now, you are just being rude for not agreeing with me wholeheartedly. All jokes aside, good luck with the sale.

I just would like to clear up a confusion and be as polite as possible during the process. That is the front pipes dude. What you are referring to as extensions, are the dump pipes. These are, what meshmesh is interested in, i believe.I apologise in advance for my interruption.

Fark it, I wrote my reply for the third time and it failed to post.

This is what had happenned Prank, I wrote my post and hit the submit button and came up with an error message. So, second time around wrote my post in word and 'copy and paste'd it to the browser and kept on getting the error 406 message, and i still do. Just before, wrote a single sentence post in the browser and it went through normal. If i want to post my first response from word, i keep getting the error message.

Doesn't the load axis represent airflow which is directly related to boost pressure...?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=34082 It is giving me an IE Error 406 Just as a test i made a post in 'For Sale' section and had no problems. Emre.

How much do you think it would cost you to do a manual conversion...? Getrag 6 speeds cost a little more than an RB25 or SR20 5 speed.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fo...isplay.php?f=14

Mark, Was you run done on 16 psi or 1.3 bar...?

In US, they use PON (Pump Octane Number) = MON (Motor Octane Number) + RON (Reasearch Octane Number) / 2 103 by VP Racing Fuels has a RON rating of 107 and MON rating of 99. Both Research Octane Test and Motor Octane Test are performed on the same engine but under different conditions, hence you get different numbers as results.

The testing is done at 75% of where the car makes its maximum horsepower. GTS-T's make maximum hp at 6400 rpm so they are tested at 4800 rpm. GTR's make maximum hp at 6800rpm and they are tested at 5100 rpm. Obviously when you modify your car with bigger cams and turbos etc. the point where you develop maximum hp on the rev range changes as well, luckily they don't get that anal and go with the factory figures. The tester generally uses a multimeter to read the revs and verify your tachometer reading. The microphone is placed at half a meter distance and 45 degree angle to the rear muffler.

hungry6, Noone is quoting any flow rates. meshmesh was talking about his fuel economy of 300km per tank.

Posted by riggaP Mine does.... Posted by INASNT Just a factory cat back with 3 inch dump and front pipe come up 3 - 4 db below 90db. Are you talking about Gts-t's or GTR's...? GTR will not pass the EPA noise tesy with the stock exhaust.

They may be referring to the fact that yor car is supposed to have an airbag in the steering wheel. Hopefully it will just for the noise and not for the emissions. FYI, a full factory exhaust doesn't pass the EPA niose test.

They fit the factory airbox and plug into the loom without any modification. They are also brand new. My dyno graph is in OZGTR's thread about the GTRS turbos. They fit staright in the stock fuel rail. No different to 600s (or the factory injectors) when it comes to idle or economy, just a bit more headroom.

You are following the exact route i had. I had no problems with going well above 300kw. Nismo AFMs instead of Z32s. Sard 720cc injectors, don't bother with the 600s. Single 044 in tank. High flow cat. Stock cooler and engine. Talk to Ben or the boys @ ICE, they will answer all the questions you may have.

Has this issue been addressed yet...? Is there a hidden button somewhere...?

I have been corrected in my assumptions by Peter from Dyno Dynamics. RT, RP and RH stand for room temperature, barometric pressure and humidity at the time of dyno session. IT is supposed to reflect the inlet temperature and the inaccurate value will give a false reading. Placing the probe for a correct reading in turbo appliactions can be a problem. The formula is : Actual inlet temperature - IT value / 5 = x % In my case : 44-29/5 = %3 can be added to the reading. TN is the inertia setting relative to the power rating of the dyno. Dynos setup to accomodate more powerful cars may have larger rollers which will have a different inertia setting. RR is the Ramp Rate and it's locked at 130 for Shoot 6 and 150 for Shoot 8 modes.

AFAIK, GTRS was designed for the SR20 and than marketed for the GTR in twin form, surely the SR20 equvalent has a larger exhaust housing. Any chance of you having the SR20 ones OzGTR...? For comparison, i am attaching my graph with 2530's running 1.4 bar. 3000 rpm = 75 kmh 4000 rpm = 105 5000 rpm = 135 6000 rpm = 165 7000 rpm = 195 8000 rpm = 215 If anyone wants to compare the data on the bottom of both dyno sheets, please go ahead. My figures as i could make it are : IT=29 degrees is the room temperature at the time (the probe was placed near the screen). My intake temperatures during the run was 44-45 degrees. RT, RP and RH are the reference values as SydneyKid have put it, which i assume would be the values they had when they were calibrating the dyno or writing the software. TN=3.5 - I believe this shows the mode used (shoot6, shoot4 or 8 etc) and is different value than Oz's . RR=13 - Ramp rate 130 which can not be altered. PL=1 - ??? CK=2 - ???

I don't want to offend but i would be fairly disappointed with a graph like that, they don't seem to be any different than the 2540's. 301kw @ 19psi is definitely a good result but that midrange is just hopeless mate. +6 on the inlet cam timing is certainly quite different, to far advance i would've thought. Can anyone explain the values on the bottom of the page regarding the shootout settings.

When the dot on the exhaust cam gear was @ 12 o'clock position, the dot on the inlet cam gear would have been @ 8 o'clock position... Right...? Did you install the cams gears when they were in this position...? The other difference i see with your cam gears is that, they seem to have 2 locating pin holes. So you may have installed the inlet cam gear with the dot facing 2 o'clock position....?

If you weren't aware of the markings @ 10 and 2 o'clock positions on the backing plate, what did you line the dots up with ?