Emre

Your mate is incorrect. EVC has two boost settings, hi and low. Their adjustments do not have any effect on how the boost comes on and judging it by the seat of the pants can be misleading. If you have 1 bar actuators, you can't set the low boost below that. Simply, the boost controller can not hold boost at 0.5 bar, if your wastegates don't open tilll 1 bar. So, set your low boost at minimum 1 bar and high boost to whatever the car has been tuned to on pump fuel. If it isn't holding boost correctly it can be fined tuned with the offset feature. FWIW, mine is set at 1.40 bar and never gets touched, would you set your rev-limiter at 6000 rpm...? The best way to monitor your boost levels is on the dyno, as the peak hold values shown on the hand controller doesn't mean much. Saying that it's common for an EBC to behave differently on the road compared to the dyno, if a high ramp rate have been used.

Download the manual from here.. This is for EVC III but the functions remain the same. The setting you are referring to is for fine tuning the EVC if self learn isn't accurate enough.

What am i supposed to make of this post. I wasn't suggesting you can't use 7s in city driving. I have been running 7s for 3 years and they haven't fouled yet. Here is the point : If you get into the habit of getting to work and back like Miss Daisy and keep your car off boost, colder plugs will start fouling. Giving it WOT on regular basis will help keeping your plugs in good shape by clearing the fresh soot of.

WOW... 0.5 to 0.3mm in the 8s... How much power are you running...? I don't think any plug in the market comes pre-gapped to those measurements. From memory. you are running around 290rwkw, 7s gapped at 0.7mm would be a perfect choice IMO. Increasing cylinder pressures is the best way to keep your plugs in good shape. Give the car a spirited drive around the block regularly for this reason alone. If you find that you are tootling around to work and back all the time, even the 7s will start fouling quickly.

406.1 and 443.7 to be exact, these are rwkw in shootout mode using race fuel. I don't like quoting power figures but the point i was trying to make was the ability of 2530s. My car has gone 126.7 mph and the other did 129 mph, in full street trim. In defence of ICE, maybe we should clear some of the issues. Ice and Racepace have a lot of cars in database for comparison purposes. Did they tell you not to go with the dump pipes or did they suggest you not to bother. Similar thing could be said regarding the cams, intercoolers etc, there is no denying they wouldn't hinder the performance, but if the gains are marginal or not very cost effective you can choose not to have them.

They are not Nismo. Could these be bought...? or is it Nismo only...?

meshmesh and busky2k, You gotta understand that the previous figure of 270kw was within the stock engine's capabilities but pushing the factory turbos to their limit. The new setup is well within the aftermarket turbos' capablities, but pushing the stock engine towards it's limits (of reliability more so than power). There is more to be had from the 2530s if you are prepeared to lean on them, i got 400rwkw on stock engine and know someone who had 440rwkw on a built engine.

Same here.

According to the AP engineering site, the difference in lag between the stock RB26 and Sard 700cc injectors are about +0.22, but my car seemes to behave much better if i set it at +0.50 or even +0.60. EDIT: Fixed the link.

Adjusting a few % either way will not harm anything at 0-0.64V range, if it doesnt make a difference you can always go back to your original setting. FYI, I have the Sard 700cc injectors and running +0.50 lag. Last one, are you confirming that Idle E/L is present with MAF on Gts-T Datalogit...? On the GTR version, it only comes up when you select the D-Jetro version.

The air trapped in the intake (plenum, cooler, piping after the turbos etc.) when the throttle is shut is vented out off the system by the blow-off valves. The factory setup returns this air back to the inlet to be combusted, hence the reason they are called plumb back. They can still be quite audible. You have to pull the liners in your guards to have full excess to all the plumbing.

The 'Idle E/L' is in the D-Jetro version of the Datalogit software. Instead of adjusting the fuel settings, play around with the first window (0.64V) on the Air Flow settings. Sard injectors also seem to be extremely laggy, did you try to add a bit more lag on the Injector menu...?

Oil temperateure can be an issue in GTRs Ferni. As you've confirmed it's not a hard task to get it up on the gauge, especially if you are having fun through the hills and sitting on 5k rpm and above. Things get worse on a race track, so if you find yourself in the position of cutting your fun halfway through to let it cool down, definitely invest in an oil cooler. Synthetic oils of today do an admirable job and withstand temperatures of upto 130 degrees and maybe beyond beriefly, but the value of a $1000 mod in the way of an oil cooler could not be denied. Re: Your non-factory blow-off return line. It's possible that one of the previous owners may have had blow-off valves venting to the atmosphere and during the installation all the factory plumbing may have been thrown away. So, when returning back to the factory set-up for one reson or another, they would have costom made new piping. It's really not a big deal as long as you have a pair off blow-off valves functioning as they were intended to.

Yes, it is. No, they are not. Yes, it is. A bit of guess work is involved with the stock oil temperature gauge. I would say the top of the white bracket you are referring to, is around 130 degrees which could be considered as too hot for prolonged use. You will notice, if you go for a spirited drive through the hills, it will get there fairly easy. Looks like a non-factory blow-off return line.

From the top of my head : 1- The Core 2- Equlibrium 3- Just about every Van Damme movie Gotta think about the rest, there are fair bit out there.

Not quite Snowman, If it's the V8 supercars you meant, the lap record is 1:10 in a qualifying session. They'd go around in 1:12s or so, in race day. Sandown lap records That obviously is not comparable to Ben's effort, which is simply outstanding to say the least. All should know that Ben is in a class of his own when it comes to this kind of stuff. What times did you manage Snowman, 1:29 you did a few weeks ago is an excellent effort as well, especially for a first time out effort. Slow car... slow camera.... We get the idea James, you are a slow kinda guy in general. Does your camera shoot any flames...? Sorry man, couldn't resist it.

acsplit, Get your hand of it dude. Where do you get the nerve to speak to someone you don't know, like that...? I think you are making a bigger deal of something insignificant. You are the one who should get an attitude check and maybe get that chip residing on your shoulder looked at. I am sure, whatever was said didn't have anything malicious behind it, but very most likely was a joke taken the wrong way. You can't judge a person on a single brief interraction and IMO, you are wrong to judge Peter (TYMSUP) the way you have.

There is nothing wrong with using copper plugs in a GTR or any skyline. I used them for over 2 years changing them at around 5-10k kms and they looked to be in perfect condition when i took them out. There is a difference in physical size of BCPRs and BKRs. From memory the BKRs are smaller (shorter), i had all my old plugs in the shed but threw them all out a couple of weeks ago. They seemed to work the same, BKRs comes pre-gapped at 0.8mm and BCPRs don't. I think BKRs come with 'v' grooves as well which is meant to provide a better spark.

re oil filter, yes it is, just go to your Nissan dealer and ask for NI-15208-H8911. It's less than $10.

I have the Bridgestone SO3s at the moment and am quite happy with them. They were $370 each for 255/40/17.

BCPR7 or BKR7. They are about $3-4 each from Repco, Bursons, etc. If there is -11 at the end (as in BCPR7E-11) they are pre-gapped at 1.1mm. Gap them down to 0.8mm if you have the ususal mods. EDIT : They came out with PFR6s from factory.

Yes it is. What injectors are you running...? What are the settings on the injector menu...?

They are very similar to Z32s in their resolution but they are not plug and play even if Z32s are chosen on the 'Air Flow' menu. Select the Z32s, change the value next to 0.64V to %145 and see if it idles OK.

Yes Matt, N2O is a wonderful thing isn't it...? Gojira, Have a read of this thread.

He heee... Being serious about a dodgy dyno printout is a little contradictory, don't you think...?