and3_3

mmm i knew a guy who got that exact deal, r33 auto for 4 k from a dealer. So you might get lucky!

mmmmmm assuming you get a good clutch with it and change the box oil with good stuff then it would take it for a daily. Even then any mistreating would seriously shorten its lifespan. And don't expect it to last if you race it regularly.

+2 for boost leak

Pics?

so they r building a new car with 2 rb26's?

Yes you can make it atmo but make sure you seal up your intake so it doesn't leak. Like R31nismoid said, GTR bov's can handle up to 600 rwkw so yes 400 rwhp will be fine.

Normal price for a C's one on Sliding performance is 310 i think, go on ebay, i paid 80 for mine. As far as i can tell its exactly the same in quality and the parts that come with it so good deal.

So it doesnt put more air in just puts the same air in faster?

So how does it work then? How can two turbos that make the same boost but don't increase the total boost volume and still make more power??

You could do 12 psi... Some stock turbo's don't like it though so up to you, and with a power fc you can sometimes get 260 or so hp out of them so maybe similar with safc

Uh wtf? 220 completely standard? Doesnt sound right. and Rear wheel kw???

As far as i know both the turbos will be pressurizing to 12 psi but the engine wont be receiving 24 psi somehow I THINK.

Well i would check your oil first, as not enough oil can make the engine make more noise than normal and cause the knock audio sensors to think the car is knocking. Then put a new batch of higher octane fuel in, or if the tank if full and you don't want to drive that much with it knocking go buy some octane booster from repco or a servo. If that doesnt fix it take it back and ask if there was any trouble with the service and mention the high knocking. Ask if he used a different oil or filter. If still not satisfied then go out and buy some of your own oil and a filter and do the change yourself (its piss easy and kinda fun). Then if that doesnt fix it time to visit the tuner, or just visit the tuner straight away!

Probably not the best section for this question, i would look in the forced induction performance and search

There is a little video on how to remove that, its amazingly simple and easy, although some people have said it doesnt quite work for them. Did the trick for me! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=no0mmj9DCns

Year: 1995 Model: R33 GTS-T Trans: Manual Faults/cons: My right front brake squeals without fail, can't see very much over the bonnet, kinda difficult to park, engine oil gets dirty very quickly 1. when its cold, sucks major arse in a car park. Had rotors machined and pads replaced twice and still no improvment. 2. Makes pin point car parking difficult 3. Maneuvering in car parks difficult 4. I change my oil every 3-5000ks and occasionally use oil engine treatments to clean it more and by 2000ks it still starts to go black!

+1 for coilovers

Like they say it isnt the size of your tool but the way you use it is important...

There is a few you can do, the cheapest would be a gtr replacement or a walboro 255lph. Then there is the tomei or nismo direct replacements.

SOLD

Hey, I'm keen put my name down!

Bov came off a R33 Gtst, standard adapter and standard plumb back port size. No hoses and bolts included, they are still needed on my car!

Bump

Bump

Hey all, For sale is my GTR Fuel pump i bought a few months back with the intention of upgrading my turbo, however i will soon be a poor apprentice so i dont want to pay for my power. These things flow pretty good and are good for about 250 rwkw. They blot straight on and do not require any modifications. Cheap easy alternative to the tomei or nismo direct replacements. Price: $100 + $15 delivery or free pickup from Chapel Hill Brisbane Thanks Guys, Mike