Raysboostin

Wouldnt poor atomisation be caused by using the incorrect spray pattern and fuel pressure?? Especially in a boosted application?? I understand that a larger injector would be harder to get perfect atomisiation. but if its the correct injector with the correct spray pattern for the application, setup at the correct pressure wouldnt the angle of the injector cause minimal issues with atomisation?? Could you expand on it a little?? Sorry for the off topic chatter bobby.

Ive never quite understood how injector angle would make any difference performance. If the fuel was properly atomised it would get caught in the airstream regardless of angle wouldnt it??

sorry i didnt make it. sudden family issue came up.

Really?? i was talking to the people at qld transports modifications desk and they told me they dont do them at all and i'd need take the car interstate to have it done.

u will find you'll prob need a mod plate for the non standard turbo as well. but check with an engineer.

Seen a white S2 in rochedale this morning. Exchanged waves

I understand its not technically warping, its just the common term for manifolds changing shape. Every manifold regardless of construction design or material will change shape over time, as uve mentioned stainless changes shape more than other materials.

I was more refering to an OS 3L than an rb30 as it seems u have the budget for it. When you say "handle high temps" do you mean it doesnt warp as much??

Wow what a read!! Firstly id like to say to you bobby that u are quite possibly the most forward thinking guy in the aussie car scene! Its because of guys like you that we have the mods available to us off the shelf. Im glad someone is interested in pushing the limit of the performance of the RB motor. The any gear, anytime approach to performance is a favorite of mine and hope to build mine in a similar way. I am curious about a few things Firstly, how come you went 2.8 rather than a 3L?? I would have thought more cc's would have helped?? Secondly why go with the 321 stainless?? Arent stainless manifolds normally made of a different grade steel than 321?? Keep up the good work.

Man NSW are ridiculous about engineering stuff. Up here in qld guys are getting blue plates on bmw e36's running 600hp 2jz's. Well sounds like the sr will work out ok for you anyway.

If you call qld transport they will give u a list of names of engineers in his area that can do mod plates. Just tell them its an engine swap and his postcode

+1

he's right. they are cheap for a reason.

wow the cops must have found something better to do. i'll have to check it out.

Have u still got the plastic vent in the top of the dash?? im looking for one thats not broken.

Isnt cootha just a cop magnet where they hassle the hell outta ya even if uve done nothing wrong?

Wheres the fun in that nah prob worth a look if ive got the time.

I know its a little off topic but could u expand on why the arent as reliable??

I think u'll find if you weight both of the engines fully dressed, the ls series will be lighter. Those DOHC add alot of weight.

I didnt know they came out. Handy to know. I dont think the shorter bolt is a problem though. It still has a good 10mm of thread in the caliper. When i take them off to get reco'di'll do as uve suggested.

I dont understand why anyone would do this. R32 gts-4 is only a fuse pull away from RWD. Why not keep the 4WD if only for those rainy days

This guys right. If u wanna do it in steel u better find a kick ass custom hot rod builder to do the panel work. If u can do the work yourself its prob the only way to make it cost effective. Otherwise i hope u've planned for a big $$$$$ build.

Both Stagea ones work fine, but u will need shorter banjo bolts. I dont remember the length needed, but in a pinch u can shorten the originals.

Well this thread has totally changed direction since you started it. You've got a long journey ahead of you with the conversion. But i would suggest you sit down and work out a long term plan this car before you get carried away. Everyone looks for more power as you get familiar with what u have. So build it for power now while its out and save the expense later. Dont forget important stuff like brakes and suspension. Go bigger and better than stock gtr gear. Take it from someone thats done this kind of thing before, theres nothing worse than upgrading stuff only to push past its limits and having to upgrade again. If your serious about this build, do it right the first time!!!

When ur stagea's off the road ya supposed buy another one