JonnoHR31

nope, at idle the intake pipe has very little suction, if you put a gauge on it you probably wouldnt get any vacuum, whereas the plenum has heaps due to the throttle body being shut. obviously the closer you get to 0 vacuum in the plenum the less it would draw through from the intake side, until the pcv shuts as soon as you hit boost then it starts flowing the other way if theres any blowby. @hanaldo, he doesnt think theres any unmetered air coming in, someone else implied that and has confused you

obviously you dont run to the intake and vent the can to atmo. he means a sealed system with the pcv blocked but the intake hose still in place

you cant complain, atleast e85 isnt illegal to sell at the bowser over there.....

semi slicks are no good on dynos, get some normal street tyres, even if they shitty second hand china specials.

if it starts becoming a serious restriction boost would taper off pretty badly because of it. i've run 24psi with a 3" intake with a 3-4" reducer on the turbo end with no problems at all

white 34 coupe with black 33 gtr wheels and a damaged passenger 1/4 window and missing passenger mirror turning onto sutherland st from roe st this avo

i had a similar problem, poured a little bit of fresh oil into all the lifters before putting them back together and 1 ended up having too much and refused to bleed down, causing no compression on that cylinder. pulled it all apart and replaced the lifter with a spare and problem solved

are both blocks in the exact same state? they should be the same, unless its an early vl block, which might be slightly different but 5kg is a lot more than i would have thought.

maybe we're not on the same page, im talking about static compression figures as in what you'd get with a compression tester. when it comes to the actual compression ratio your right, static remains the same, sorry.

the atp housing would probably be becoming a decent restriction at that power level, hence the top end. you could probably squeeze a decent amount more out of it with big boost though. i have the same gate and found a mob that manafacturers copies and springs to suit a while ago but lost all the details when my hard drive died unfortunately. they are out there though, just gotta find them.

they're standard size pistons and probably original. blue block means its been out of the car before (assuming its painted everywhere?) though. cam timing changes staitic compression too as the valves shut at different points and therefore there'll be different amounts of air in the cylinder when it shuts.

aswell as static compression

all the more reason to keep the standard oil cooler. if your coolant temps are low you can safely assume your oil temps should be pretty good. mynes fairly similar to yours (low 70s) and i run slightly thinner oil than everyone else because it never gets hot enough

unless your using cheap shitty oil you'll almost always boil the coolant before you get the oil hot enough to break down instantly. you'll reduce its life a fair bit by running that hot though, which is why ideally you should change your oil after a track day if you dont have good cooling.

yer damn that low compression putting all that extra strain on the timing belt..... 1 tooth isnt anywhere near enough to mash valves, are you sure its only 1 tooth?

i have a dump pipe made by him, makes the rest of my exhaust look like shit.....

na it doesnt erase the idle learn, thats set in stone until you data init the pfc. if raising the fuel cut and cleaning the aac valve doesnt help enough try raising those first to to 20 degrees instead of 15, it wont affect your idle, just help stop it stalling after dropping down.

if its manual your much better off putting it in 4th gear and undoing it by hand, only use the cranking or preferably a rattle gun for autos. find a guide on here with pictures or get someone with experience to watch over and you'll be fine, i did my first timing belt in the dark on a driveway and only got 1 tooth out first try

that depends on a few different factors. for some people 550s are anywhere near enough for 300rwkw, for others it seams to be plenty. i say see how you go, can even tune slightly on the lean side (.85 lambda) if need be without any problems with e85.

sounds like you just need a nismo intank pump and a tune and you should be fine. dont lower the boost, even with more power the e85 will be kinder to the engine than your current pulp setup.

stock 25 pump withe the standard pulley will be fine

power goals?

yep leave it as standard, it might not be the greatest setup but it does help with oil temps a bit

na whats shown on the hand controller in monitor is always what the ecu is putting out, ideally this should be the same at the crank if the timings set properly. in idle mode the ecu simply ignores the main ignition map and runs between 10-20 degrees (for rb25 anyway) to control idle speed. if you've already tried 2 cas's it'd be pretty safe to rule that out, although a 3rd wouldnt hurt. see if you can borrow another timing light from a mate or local member.

Do everything except machining myself now. Used to get a bit done by workshops but 90% of the time i walked away dissapointed and slowly learnt as much as i could to get away. No offence to the trade but it seams with most things in Perth if you want it done properly and you have an oddball car you have to do it yourself As for twiddling thumbs, even though theres not really anything wrong with Australia economically a lot of people still seam to be in tightass mode, just doing the bare minimum to keep their cars going. My dad owns a tyre store and the whole industry has been shithouse for a while now, people just aren't spending.