steve_R32

Forgot to mention that it now has an R34 GTR FMIC, and an Apex-i N1 GTR turbs back exhaust, plus I fitted a 1100kg 9 puck ceramic clutch. (And no, I dont want a GTR, parts cost too much- bar a std cooler which i got for a good price, and I have enough fun in my GTS-T!) Reliable fun Steve

I'd Like to think my R32 gts-t looks o.k, GTR front bar and all- for my daily driver, and work car that I own anyways- you guys decide (that don't like GTR bars on gts-t's) Steve

Well, my r32 gtst is a late 1993, and the speedo is definately cable driven. Steve

I have just done my water pump, thermostat and timing belt all in one go (all genuine nissan). I used permatex form-a-gasket sealant (brown semi hard setting stuff) for the sealant of the pump and thermostat. Used 60k kms tectaloy coolant. To bleed the system, there is a coolant bleed 10mm bolt at the top of the inlet manifold, at the very front of the plenum chamber. Has a small sticker that reads "never open when hot" on it. Any other questions, or if you need any photos whilst doing the job (I took a shite load whilst my car was apart) email me steve_heidi at iprimus.com.au (replace at with @ obviously- spam and dodgy email sucks) Hope this helps, Steve

Viper Motorsport in Adelaide.....whilst they were open (about 2 years ago)

Ahh, forgot to mention it will shudder a little if you really slip it, but all it needs to get moving is a slight slip, and swift but smooth release, and you're off.

I just put a ceramic 9 puck cushion button friction plate in, and a daikin racing 1100kg pressure plate. All I can say is, its heavier on the foot then the std clutch! There is no way it will spin up on boost like the std clutch did. (11 yrs old std clutch too, i was surprised) Got it through a mate with a machined flywheel and thrust bearing for a killer price, and fitted it all myself I'm happy :) Steve

See, thats what I loike to see, prompt, good ol' fashioned service, no matter what state you're in. I'll go back (well, over the phone, that is) Good work just jap (if you read this?) Happy customer Steve

After reading through 3 pages of camshaft dilemmas, you had better tell us why the cam was so tight!!

Just a short message to say I was impressed with the service from Just Jap in NSW. I live in Adelaide, ordered a R34 GTR cooler, a 3" front pipe, 3"cat, an a'pexi N1 3" cat back exhaust, and a strut brace from them. The cooler and cat arrived the next day as promised, and the exhaust and strut brace the day after as promised. Couldn't be more happy! All in good nick too, as promised Tony wanted to send the cooler separately to avoid damage, which it had none of. But to top it all off, they were at least a couple of hundred cheaper then anywhere in adelaide. Sweet, I reckon. Props to them Steve

Just watched this on today tonight in adelaide... I can see the attraction to this type of activity, being a P plater once. But we still never did anything to that size, with that amount of people around.........damn, there was a s**t load of people around! Some of those younger people need to realise they need to go to legal places to drive like that. In adelaide, we have legal street drags, drift comps, and even burnout comps, save it for then seems like a good idea, when you're facing hard time! Not sure about melbourne. I would've thought they'd have places like that available. Should stir the circles a bit, no doubt. Steve

My R32 gtst does this exact same thing too. Joel made some good points about his car doing it too, said it was his TPS. I haven't adjusted mine, simply cause when it hits halfway on my temp guage (ie- its warmed up), it goes away. Do a search, theres been heaps of discussion on this before. Steve

I imported my gts-t myself. From what I can tell it came from the northern part of japan. It had some autoland sendai higashi stickers on the front guards, i think this was northern, not entirely sure. Anyways, it had rust around the rear wheel arches... easily fixed as I work in a crash repairers.... I was under the impression that they did salt the roads, never havng been to japan, this thread is mighty interesting to me. Just thought I'd add some extra rust info to the rust thread.. Steve

Thanks -Joel-, thats the sort of info that is oh so helpful when doing the job yourself Cheers to all, extremely useful info there. Steve

Cheers all, looks like I'm off to chat with the Nissan blokes. I do some work for a nissan dealer, so hopefully the parts section will be nice to me. Was hoping to get the bits from somewhere that was NOT nissan, but ahh well.. As for the puller, Who did yours -Joel-? Can I buy a puller that will do the job from somewhere? I'd rather do the job myself, I simply don't trust any workshops, nor want to pay more then I have to. I do all of my own mech. work. Any other info would be uber-helpful Cheers, Steve

Normal W reg plates on the car now. Its going into this weeks trader too. Anyone? Negotiable on the price. 0412 847 847 Steve

Correct me if I'm wrong, but kilograms per cubic centimetre (kg / cub. cm) is a unit of pressure. Its an oil pressure guage. The reason the guage drops when it gets to operating temp is because the viscosity of the oil changes when it heats up. More viscous, flows better, less pressure, colder oil, less viscous, more pressure. Something like that /me goes wayyy back to old pre-voc auto tafe classes.....

Searched, and not found any concrete answers...... Can some one please tell me a definate part number (genuine, and/or non- genuine) for the R32 gts-t's RB20DET timing belt, and the water pump. I want to be sure, so I dont have to pull it apart before I buy parts.. I have heard that the water pump is the same as the RB30 locally offered motor, but then I have heard that a bolt hole doesnt line up properly.. Where can I get a timing belt from, if not only the nissan dealer.. (I'm in Adelaide, southern suburbs) Tried motortraders, repco, sprint auto..no such luck.. Surely some of you R32 gtst owners have done the belt change yourselves? Or does everyone pay someone else to do it? Any help is appreciated! Steve

All I know is they shut down. No longer. Zip-Zilch-nada-nothing.. They complied my 32, then they were gone. Freeky, no? But there was some new company called matrix motorsprot, run by I think Chris (who worked @ Viper) Look for those guys, may be able to help you out.. Can't help you anymores then that.

C'mon, someone must want a Z, or know someone who does? Needs to sell, price is negotiable.

I found a little purple flashy neon light in my boot, hooked up to either the brake, or taillight.... A full Japanese newspaper, cover to cover (tried reading it, but gave up LOL) A paket of scotch locks in the boot A full bottle of Jap windscreen washer fluid under the drivers seat. A few Japanese Jomo dockets, and some Marboro cigarettes (unsmoked, thankfully) The usual drink holders, and extra clip on ashtray A fair bit I guess

Red 1989 2+2 manual twin turbo 300ZX for sale. Done 90,000 kilometres Targa top (removable middle sections) Great on those sunny days. Alarm fitted, hooked up to the central locking. New Phillips tape deck and 6 CD stacker fitted, 4 new Kenwood speakers fitted, in the standard locations. Electric drivers seat, all cloth trim. All the standard electronic gizmoes, Climate control, power windows/mirrors, Power steering (4ws- Hicas) ROH 16" mag wheels fitted, new tyres on the rear. Asking $21,000, has to go people. Ph- 0412 847 847 Really is a beautiful, clean example of a well looked after car. Not to mention, goes exceptionally well Car is located in South Australia, prefer to sell in this state. Cheers, Steve

I have heard that they disconnect the outside two tail lights because there is an ADR that says something about the indicators are not allowed to be in board of any tail lights....hence the disconnection.... Also explains why Nissan rearranged the light configuration on the Aus-spec GTR's. But as you have found out, piece of piss to reconnect :P

Hey man, Here's a pic of my car, its not a GTR, only a GTS-t with a GTR front bar, and no rear wing....but anyways Steve

If you are still using the std R32 computer, just unplug the battery... Standing on the brakes just supposedly drains any power left to make the ECU lose its memory. I mean, you could probably turn the headlights on... either way. Once you reconnect the battery, take it for a strap, it will advance the timing untill it pings then back it off. Apparently a common trick to get a bit out of your motor, especially once the car comes from japan, in its 100 octane tune so to speak.