toddlls

oh yeah you gotta keep ur speed up too

Hey guys, when driftin I use maximum positive castor on front, set 2 deg camber on rear/ 2.5 deg on front, lower car, stiffen front & rear swaybars up to 1point off max, suspension to the same with 1 less point on damper set ignition timing +2steps positve, adjust boost to come on -1 step before mid and maximum adjust. on top rev, use the AE86 with 15% wider rubber & rims, max score on short track 7650pts, need4speed carbon-2,150,000pts on kings rd circuit in bombed RX-7(kenji's car)this is on ps2 tho

I am interested in this one also, the only go i've had is doing the defensive driver course at Mt Cotton, not exactly a drift day but got to go on the skid pan as "slide control" as drifting is banned there. It was pretty sweet "slide controlling" the entire track hahaha. If anyone knows something about where and when a sau event is coming up pls pm me

They are all pretty good cars to use as the type of platform you require, just got to look worldwide to see that, my R32 gtst gets 550+ k's per tank if I'm not giving it some, love the balance of it too, am about to do suspension, then power-up-cant wait hahahahahahahahaha(maniacal laughter)

G'day mate, I had a similar issue a little while back with a odd smell to exhaust and white puff. After much asking around and checks the problem revealed itself as a blown headgasket. It was bizarre, like a hairline crack in the seal ring that was letting water into bore. The indicator to this was having to refill radiator overflow bottle every two weeks or so. I hope this isn't the case for you, but may help you to solving your problem

My old mans a mechanic, he says this: When a car has first been started and is running at idle the amount of oil flowing around the motor is negligable ie low oil pressure, oil will not reach all areas of the engine correctly until the the oil pump is opporating at revs. Oil pumps reach their maximum pump pressure @3000rpm. You should never exceed 3000rpm until engine temp is at normal operating temp. It is also important to correctly warm down a motor with the final k's done within normal driving operation not thrashing the pants off it. I drove a highly boosted to 16lb Laser Tx3-4WD to 360,000km's on the clock without engine failure by following this advice with regular 5000km oil/filter changes until I sold it and joined the "Legion of Skyline-There can be no other" Thats my 2c

Howdy all, plenty of good advice in here and just one more thing to consider, to possibly have a match in engine to proposed new 2530, big dollars on supporting internals is on the cards. I cant help but think that maybe a rb26dett front cut transplant might be your best option. Straight up 200+kw atw and twin turbos, newer motor-more parts available, however, to keep within the theme of this thread consider the pipe work from induction thru turbo to inter then back to engine, and dont oversize too far if at all from factory specs and you will be well on the way, also consider the pipe work lengths, greater dist. airflow to travel the greater the lag, 450mm wide bar&plate intercooler instead of standard 600mm may help this also. ARC have some good info on this, ring them and have a chat. Once you have decided upon your turbo look at purchasing from the US, bought-shipped to your door its still heaps cheaper than buying them here + no sales tax- my bro has bought 2 (separate evo2 rocketship builds) and saved nearly $1000 on each unit.

At the end of the day all car choices are a personal one, what is the right one for you may not be liked by others, which does't matter anyway. I went looking for six months for a gtr and ended up after a test drive not buying said gtr. so what ever everyone on this thread is telling you, the right choice is nissan-regardless of model and you will do well if you dont rush to buy the first car you see. Just take your time, you'll choose right

Hey all, Todd here live on gold coast grey 32gtst have whiteline test pilot sticker drivers side rear quarter window am usually up at broadwater carpark most sat nights interested to meet more of you all

Motul 8100 5w-40 synthetic- its pretty damn good, was on mobil one but noticed 0 oil pressure at lights one day then oil warning light came on had to turn engine off quickly- this doesnt happen now oil pressure is where it should be , at idle and at rev