toddlls

I was under the impression that the tip of the iridium/platinum plug is also coated and regapping will cause the coating to flake off, considering it is an extremely hard material small flakes can do nasty things to rings/bores etc. Buy the correct gap & check if required, but do not regap- ultimately; its your motor so your call I am staying with iridium-personally

You can take the Chassis # into Nissan & ask whether there is anything different about it or whether the sequence is part of the Gtst run of numbers. I found something strange on the back of mine & it looks like some kind of badge was on but has been removed as there is a minor variation of the paint near the right tail light, I can make out the letters A & end with ess-who knows what the guy who owned it had there-dont think it was Nissan who put it on there but cant be sure about that either

Wires tap straight off Tacho signal line, 1xpower & 1x earth

I am in the process of organizing another around May. Am currently waiting to find out what Saturdays Willowbank have available that are linked to the Test'N'Tune just like the last event which makes life a lot easier to plan around. Will keep you all posted Todd, Qld Events Team

wonder if he would seperately sell the wheels lol I luv those Enkei's

Denis, we all try to help each other on here, sometimes advice maybe contrary to professionals or may compliment it, but, when it comes to safety-any recommendations by anyone should be considered because no-one knows what experiences may have given rise to why people say what they do. it is obvious that you have been given the go-ahead by tyre professionals to use the tyre. My view is-you drive a what $15-20,000 vehicle which is high powered, likely to be driven spiritedly at some point which your only contact is a roughly 200mm oval section of rubber connecting you to the surface-so for the sake of $280 to replace a possibly damaged piece of rubber is a wise choice I'm not trying to tell you what to do but would I drive on it-NO I would even replace the rim with new too-but I track my car as well as use it for daily driver Oh-yeh forgot a mate of mine rolled his honda after a rear tyre blew out, funny cause it was one that he hit a curb with too & didn't replace-similar cut type in sidewall-rim wasn't damaged either the way yours is- alot of energy has been absorbed there

I got my Bilsteins from Dan-Elite Racing Developments, give him a try, you will never meet a more helpful guy than him to deal with for parts and The suspension is awesome too

For the sake of a couple of hundred dollars-choose life-buy a new tyre, hits like that can do alot more unseen damage & if you have an accident then insurance may have a gripe & we all know how they are when it comes to wriggling out of paying for repairs if they dont have too due to something being not quite right

$15 heat gun from bunnings, otherwise blowtorch & wrap the perspex in tinfoil to stop it burning

Sounds like Timing issue, a stuffed clutch will normally slip meaning more revs an no extra speed, hope you find it out soon, try getting re-tuned maybe

Not just any-ol-25 it was the big man Pear himself that got a lesson by a humble-relatively-stockish RB20 thanks 4 coming. Don't worry Col, sooner or later the beloved purple will fall just the same mwahahahahahahaha

Just found this thread '92 R32 Gtst, Turbo-stock Internals-stock Remap, 14 PSI, 167rwkw-Dr Drift Tyres-Nexen S5000@42psi Best Time 14.452 @ 97.36mph/156.69kph on a .831 reaction time

Double Clutched my KE Tx3 4wd Laser everytime and no prob's with the syncros at 330,000k when I pulled the gearbox down for a look, this I found to be amazing due to the 4wd being notorious for stripping 2nd gear syncro's. By using double clutch technique you can greatly improve the life of components in drive train but it is not a be-all & end-all. Back it up with a smoother driver style & your beastie should damn near last forever. Many may argue the double's are not required for syncromesh gearboxes & they would be right-not required, but it is a good habit to master due to when a transfer to dogbox setups 1 missed gear change can cause all types of grief or if you ever get to drive a truck with a roadranger box you'll thank yourself you persisted with it. I do it on every down gearchange these days when slowing or stopping How-to Load up gear lever slightly before pulling out of gear, press clutch whilst pulling out of gear into neutral, let go of clutch, press clutch a 2nd time & engage next gear. This is to be done to rev match ie 3rd gear 1800rpm, to 4th gear 1200rpm-while the revs naturally fall. When coming back down thru gears ie 4th-3rd a simultaneous flick of accelerator to match gear range back-up is required slightly b4 2nd clutch push ie 4th gear at 1200rpm back-load gearlever & clutch in to pop out of gear, flick throttle so tacho rises from 1200rpm to req. 1800rpm-depress clutch & put into 3rd gear at 1800rpm-all being done whilst applying brakes at constant pressure to avoid lockup. You will see that this is necessary when driving heavy diesel's-trucks which dont have a syncro setup on g'box Takes a lot of practice to master & will improve stopping distance when done correctly due to engine being utilized as part of braking system-how else are you gonna stop 40ton quickly?

It could be a lower ball joint thats gone, best bet is to take it into a suspension shop-ie Pedders & get them to do a suspension safety check. Will cost around $50-$80 & will tell you what is wrong

If they are clearing all suspension bars and rods & dont scrub the guards when cornering hard then its fine. Hard to work out whats the ideal offset for a car when you go to buy rims, I got a R32Gtst & put drifteks on it. Rears are +36 offset and clears all the above but they stick out about 5mm past the outer edge of the rear guards- defect waiting to happen LOL- was assured they were legal when I bought them- but meh looks phat so they stay

Write to the ombudsmen, quoting the officer made an estimation by ear-using no sound recording equipment and estimated 95db, that should stir up a bit of hoohah at police, its like saying you were doin what looked like 200kph and booked without seeing a radar gun with the speed clearly marked on it-absolutely rediculous

Mate, I'm runnin in my R32 Gtst 14psi, dyno'd at 165.6rwkw/457Nm @ 6500rpm tuned on a 28deg day by Dr Drift and only managed a 14.452 at 98.7mph. I have a full 3" turbo back, hi flow cat, intercooler, pod, bigger fuel pump & boost controller for the life of me couldn't break the 100mph mark no matter how many times I tried(did 15 runs) My best re-action time was .440. There's a big difference of what a 20yr old car can do compared to a fresh outa the factory car sprouting figures on paper is meant to do. Mine before remapping was puttin out 116rwkw with all the mods I have listed and was running lean as up top before remap. The only way you will know is to get it on the strip & see for yourself- if your up in Qld your welcome to come to our next Drag day & see how you go-we would love to see you there-Qld Events team out

Over estimate what your looking for, that will take into account any mods you haven't planned for now. I guess any clutch manufacturer is ok, but when people buy something then the situation changes any will fail unless they are specific to new changes made. Jim does good work, NPC, Ogura, Nismo coppermix, will all do the job, otherwise $2500 on a HKS twin plater is good sense if eventually you get to 300 rwkw & plan to drift

I have put 1 of these in my 32 and no difference until I got it tuned. 1st run was on stock pump 116kw, then replaced stock with the walbro, ran 116kw, remapped now 167kw

Here's one of mine getting some exercise lol & another sunning itself at work

Try contacting Sam, aka Dr Drift, he did mine & its awesome

If this goes ahead PM me pls as I will come along, plus it helps if people don't use 'drift', slide control seems to be acceptable for the crew at Mt Cotton & placates the heretics who live in the area + a bit of rolled up steel wool carefully placed into the tailpipe can muffle a fair amount of noise whilst still allowing the car to breathe and may keep people under the noise restrictions for the skidpan, the larger floodable area is in Redland Shire so the noise restrictions are diiferent but still below 96db I think

There is a clip that runs around the globe housing inside of the lens, 1 of them when pushed in slightly & will unclip- unlocks the globe and allows it to pull out, its really fiddly to do, if you have a missus with small hands she may be able to do it otherwise just bear with it, sooner or later you will unclip it and the globe comes out really easy, its another story to get the little blighter back in but after undoing it you will know how it works

Cams- woooohooooo Go Qld go

Yep call em, They are legal, must be secured properly, be of flame retarding materials, & non oiled-which nissan usually require from air filters anyhow-and oiled filters fowl the A/F meter sensor anyway. Qld police can interpret as an induction system that may need to be enclosed due to induction noise issues- up to officer at the time of roadside inspection. Not sure on the P-Plater issue tho