Don Dada

Hks Gtss CHRA = 446179-65 Garrett -9 CHRA =446179-65 Same CHRA number means same ball bearing center WITH same size/spec wheels attached, and as we already know the comp and turbine housings have the same A/R between the two..... Sooo.....Go have a beer, and reminisce on the good ole days

Bolt it on to the old turbo and use a piece of pipe and bend it to suit. There it no need to drill out anything....that only applies to -5s where the actual hole spacing for the drain pipe is further apart.

Besides actually initializing the unit to set it to default, there is another method to get corr% zeroed off. I think you have to push the joystick up and hold for a couple secs, or something to that effect.....Its in the manual also.

What you guys think of this as a fail safe device? Seems pretty nifty to me, and can work with any wmi kit. http://www.aemelectronics.com/water-methanol-failsafe-device-1-4-sae-1184

Dont need any restrictor and you can watch into the oil feed to confirm >> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/380520-5-oil-feeds/page__p__6068082__fromsearch__1#entry6068082 You will need to elongate the hole for the oil drains however

Yea...Ive seen one run ridiculous timing on low load. Was up to high 50s

Guys, I have a set of Gold S15 Tein drift spec, winding master Type HE on my car right now and one of the rear has started to leak. I also have a spare one of the same winding master Type HE from a previous vehicle but its ECR33 spec The spring for the R33 is visibly longer and thicker, otherwise everything is identical, but I'm not sure if the valving is the same between the two, and Tein just fitted it with different springs to suit the specific vehicle It would be great if i could just swap springs and go again!.....What do you guys think?

^^^^True I normally just put earths on important sensors just for ease of mind I guess, ie. tps and cas

Have some 550cc on a 25det, misfires on no.5 until it warms up, then its good to go

Feels like it looses all power for a split second and then back on again. Happens once, maybe twice for the week If I remember correctly from on that thread, some guys with conversions were also getting it,and even some with R33 gtrs?? Seems like a bug with the unit itself

Wired in a Laurel using r33 gtr loom, spitfires and later r33 gtr type pfc

Stock ecu run 16-18* on full load up to limiter with stock turbo @10- 11 psi.......Dont know if that helps??

Hmmmm.....I believe the shaft is ceramic too...?

Highly doubt its the fuse guys. I get it with my rb26 pfc too and its not even in a gtr

Ive seen a 33gtr go into limp mode already due to high temps and running on 95, and all the ecu did was pull about 8* timing.....no change in boost or anything, but you could definitely feel the loss in power. This car didnt have the stock solenoid tho ...

Jez, wonder if its just coincidence that it was no2 as well?.....Anyway Ive changed out turbs already, so this should be a walk in the park

Well ,put in a oem pump back in the tank, changed the plugs and eventually got her to start back up and idling again. Got carb spray and sprayed around runner 2 and the idle changes, and the car fills the garage with smoke So I've found the problem.....Just to fixit now

Sounds promising, just have to get it started again tho

Hmmm....Interesting. Will definately try that, just that it seems like the fuel pump has now shit itself....Actually not even sure. Added some fresh fuel to the car as it was parked up a couple mths and after that it barley starts and idles. Pulled the return to the tank and no fuel, so we went inside the tank and found a walbro pump, took it out and hooked it up front plumbed to the rail in a container of gas and it works.....pressure in the return, but the car barley starts. Tried an oem gtr pump up front and same problem. So the plot thickens. Done troubleshooting for today, and until I get a fresh set of plugs.

Yea...Will diagnose with a new set of plugs. As far as checking ign, I took out the coil attached a plug and checked spark which looked healthy, and was same when compared to other cylinders using the same method. Also swapped around pks and plugs....splitfires btw

Idle is 900-1000rpm and it does not rev out clean at all hot or cold. The plugs appear to be consistent across all but does come out a little wet, doesnt seem bad When you unplug no.1 you definitely notice it as it wants to cut off, and basically no change when you unplug no.2 The car was bought recently and did notice the temps climbing, but havent driven it long enough to notice any coolant loss. Also tried bleeding from the 10mm bolt on the balance tube but that was clogged so just left it at that until I sorted out this problem.I havent noticed any coolant and oil mixing though I'll have to take another look at those plugs though and check to see if that little wetness is infact water or if its fuel across all

I'll get some carb spray and check for leaks. If is was a matter of valve clearance, would be be isolated to no.2 as is now?

Cams are aftermarket r34 so I guess a little lumpiness is expected, but you can tell something is up with no.2 Xklaba, cas was also changed

No hunting.... just lumpy, very lumpy. And yes all the time

I'm getting a rough idle problem with a 34 gtr and I have tried basically everything without sucess. First off the car has a r33 head&blk using back the 34 harness with some unknown cams, which I believe are 34 as well as it uses back the 34 type cas When idling if I pull the connector for the coil pks I can hear a noticeable difference in the beat of the engine on all except no. 2, so i'm assuming the problem is with 2. Checked for spark...good. Switched around pks and plugs same thing. Checked for inj pulse....good. Changed with a next set of inj and same thing. Changed afms same thing, changed resistor pk same thing, changed cas same thing. Checked timing and dots on gears line up with backing plate while crank pulley is on the first orange mark 0* so I assuse everything is good there. Compression test 150-160 with the highest being no. 2 Dont think its an electrical problem the spark from no.2 seems healthy and test light looks the same for all inj when checking for pulse. Is r34 gtr cams compatable with the r33 gtr head? What you guys think?