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Underpowered M35 Hi guys, New to stageas (and turbos) just bought an axis M35 VQ25DET. I have noticed that the car has a rather rough idle, doesn't appear to be making any boost but don't have a boost gauge to verify that and tends to jerk around when driving. My guess is a blown turbo. Has anyone else had these symptoms? Going to take it in to get looked at when I have some time off. Thanks guys

I got an 98 R34 rb25de NA and its had a Sputtering problem for a while, ive replaced the fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, AFM. I went out today and went to check the coilpacks resistance which was : 1 .796 1.6 2 .765 1.5 3 .781 1.4 4 .846 1.7 5 .739 1.4 6 .757 1.4 i also replaced a snapped off bolt that held coilpack 4 inplace, and when i pulled out the spark plug a small amount of coolant came with it, not sure if it was in the hole or ontop of the plug as a fair amount of coolant poured over the engine once i removed a hose, half a cup, probably less, i put a rag down the hole to remove any coolant left there but the rag came out completely dry! The spark plugs were also fouled, all of them, so i put in new ones, once i put it all back together and started the car, it has the slightest amount of white smoke coming out the exhaust, doesnt smell sweet either. I know that if the coolant was from the spark plug hole is a sign of a blown head gasket and so is white smoke, but i dont think it is one as i dont have milky oil or any discoloration, no oil in radiator and no overheating, and ive barely driven it in the past 3 months, I think that the coilpack 4 is shot and needs replacing, so my question is, is that what could be causing the problem? or is that reading ok? could it also be a blasted injector?? bad intake manifold gasket? as i noticed it was in average condition, not broken or cracked but not straight. any suggestions would be helpful!!!

Hey there need some urgent help with my 25/30. I have just installed some tomei 264 poncams and now my car idles like crap. The whole car shakes and vibrates and just doesn't feel right. I have new lifters, upgraded valve springs and retainers, new valve stem seals and the tomei 264 poncams. I have a tomei exhaust cam gear installed with no advance or retard.Controlling everything is a pfc l jetro and I have 700cc injectors. The car revs and drives ok but idle is horrible. Timing is spot on and no matter how far advance or retard ignition timing or add and take away fuel the idle does not get any better. Now don't get me wrong it changes the idle and ratios but the best idle I can get is still crappy. Every video i see or person i ask that has installed these cams say they are straight drop in and do not affect idle like what I am describing, but my idle woes only happened after the cam install. I thought bent valves but got a reading of 150 psi on all cylinders doing a dry compression test. Can anyone give any advice? I am totally stumped and bout ready to go back to the original cams cause this idle just is not right. Anyone with any experience please give some advice.

My series 1 r33 skyline with series 1 rb25det is got a problem. It idled rough on a cold start untill I give it some throttle. And randomly cuts out when driving around 2500-3000 rpm. It also stalled while idling last night. I've cleaned the aac valve and air flow meter. I've changed the fuel filter, air filter, o2 sensor, coil packs and put iridium plugs in it and it is still doing it. The cutting out is random as in, one day it won't do it, next day it will and it varies from one quick cut out to 5 or 6 times in a couple of minutes. It is similar to when a car runs out of fuel. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi Guys, Just got back from overseas and needed to start the car after letting it sit for quite a few months. Car was serviced before I left for overseas and has only seen around 100km's since that time (mechanic drove it from the shop and dropped it off, and I took it for a quick spin to get washed) and was running completely fine after the service. Today I decided to start the car and take it for another wash - It kicked over first go (I thought the battery would have drained by now but it didn't which was a good sign) - but I noticed it was missing heavily and very rough at idle (engine shaking/surging) - after a minute the car stalls. It did manage to kick over a few more times and has absolutely no problem starting - but continued to sound very erratic and kept stalling after a minute or so. I've uploaded a short video, and while I know it's not the greatest and there are probably heaps of variables - I'm hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction as to what to look for. There is no way I can limp it to the mechanics like this as it keeps stalling - so I'm hoping it will be a simple fix (leaky vacuum or something)? I did a search but doesn't seem like anyone has the exact problem I do nor on my engine. The car is a 1993 R32 GT-R - it does have a powerFC and splitfires but standard injectors, pump, AFM's, etc. http://www.filehosti...12/IMG_0466.MOV I stopped the vid just before the car stalled. I'll have to pull the plugs + AFM's out tomorrow when the sun comes up to check them - but if anyone has any advise before I start would be greatly appreciated (hoping to save my knuckles if I can)!

I'm getting a rough idle problem with a 34 gtr and I have tried basically everything without sucess. First off the car has a r33 head&blk using back the 34 harness with some unknown cams, which I believe are 34 as well as it uses back the 34 type cas When idling if I pull the connector for the coil pks I can hear a noticeable difference in the beat of the engine on all except no. 2, so i'm assuming the problem is with 2. Checked for spark...good. Switched around pks and plugs same thing. Checked for inj pulse....good. Changed with a next set of inj and same thing. Changed afms same thing, changed resistor pk same thing, changed cas same thing. Checked timing and dots on gears line up with backing plate while crank pulley is on the first orange mark 0* so I assuse everything is good there. Compression test 150-160 with the highest being no. 2 Dont think its an electrical problem the spark from no.2 seems healthy and test light looks the same for all inj when checking for pulse. Is r34 gtr cams compatable with the r33 gtr head? What you guys think?

HELP PLZ! R32 GTR Idle gets lumpy when car is hot. Hey guys my apologies for starting an other idle thread.But I have been searching for a few days and can't get an exact answer. the car is a 91 GTR with very light mods. N1 apexi exhaust up to the stock front pipe. Hashimoto radiator Yellow Jacket coil packs hks oil filter relocation kit and HKS pod intakes Recently replaced my AFMs with APH AFMs The Problem- the car has been running fine for the last two months but recently I was losing power and throttle along with the idle starting to sputter at random times. I was certain it was the dated AFMs. So replaced them with a aftermarket brand from cananda. The problem seemed to go away (so I thought).After driving the car around for about 30 minutes and allowing things to get warm the car just flips a switch and the idle will run shitty and it sounds like a go kart accelerating. Wondering if it could be faulty coilpacks or spark plugs. On a good note the car doesn't lose or cut out in acceleration anymore. When I cold start he vehicle it runs fine until things get hot after a while of driving for the day. Then I'll restart the car and have the same lumpy idle issue. Any idea what can be going on fellas?