br3ndan

Hey guys could you check the following... i want to know if it was manual from factory.. as i have a feeling its been change from auto to manual.. VIN is 6u90000ER34008013 engine number is B25289477A

Lol!!! karl is right thats my fmic How did u manage to get that mixed up? hahaha....

Got some more coming but in a different location.. being editted atm.

The camera is a 30D. Thanks for the comments... As for the disabled parking bay.. we noticed that... but the location was too good... Dont worry we were quick about it

Hey guys So last night i had a photo shoot for fun. Pics done by Jake Jones, a big thanks to him! Just wanted to show the WA community so im posting it in the WA section... Scroll down for the pics! Cars are mine and my friends... =D Starring: Seul_avec (don) : Red r33 Chris : White Evo 7 Me: White r33 Sunny: Blue WRX Hot choc (teo) : Blue r34

30/50 oil? If u look again closely, i was saying thats the hot weight a skyline street driver should be looking out 0-15 is the cold weight that a skyline street driver should look at. i did not mean the cold weight being 30 and the hot weight bbeing 50 :S not even a commodore should be running that! So far ive been using mobil 1 and ive blown no blue smoke and it doesnt seem to use a drop of oil. Ive also heard good things about motul 300v chrono.

lol i have a feeling this debate on what brand of oil to use can go on forever... Basially tho theres a few things you need to look at 1. 100% fully synthetic... Like Mobil 1 or most other high end brands like redline. 2. Cold weight... should be max of 15... lowest of 0. This weight doesnt matter as much, as this is only when its cold... when it heats up it will get thicker. Thinner oil is better for cold start up anyway as it takes less time to move around and coat all ur engine parts. Its not like you are going to be thrashing the car while its cold. Easy driving only! 3. Hot weight... should be around 30-50... i wouldnt go anything above 50 as its a bit thick for street use. Other then that theres not much else to think about. So why do i use mobil 0-40? (apart from the above) Xspeed who check out my car recommended me to use it... so i did.

was the engine hot? Usually to get accurate oil readings you have to drive it around till it hits operating temp. Stop the car and let it rest for about 5 mins (to let the oil drop down) and then check the oil. Pull the stick out, wipe it and put it back in. When you take it out again, that's how much oil is left in the sump. If you did that, ignore the above haha.

Hotchoc aka Teo will be attending... he cant post here as his internet is shapped =)

mobile 1 0 - 40 here Any high end oil will do with weight more or less around that number.

like i said on msn and other thread im down for this!

im down with or without models =)

im up for this let me know time and date.

^+1 probably a vaccum hose some where that hasnt been connected properly and is leaking Hard to find mechanics who will do a good job now a days... Im sure you will find the problem soon.

+1 for kudos he will get it to u very quick with AAA service. have bought a few items off him and always arrive on time.

picked up more then my fair share in my wb one tonna so im sure u will b fine!

Are you talking about the 2 door coupe there? If you are there are infact a difference between the s1 and 1.5. 1995 came out with whats commonly called "m-spec" front bumper. Similar design yes, but its still a different front bar. If you talking about the 4 door then im not sure...and ur probably right.

How far into the cruise do we hit ur sisters shop man? I have alot of assignments to take care of around that time, but i dont mind heading up to get a bite to eat if the shop meet point isnt too far near the end of the cruise...?

Ive been pulled over before and they were having a look at my front bar / fmic. But they never said anything to me about it. Didnt even ask me to pop the bonnet. The thing is the REO bar is always hidden behind the bumper so they wont pick u up on that, altough the pits would if you ever got a yellow but its easy enough to find spare reo bars at wreckers... As for the front bar the cops didnt even know that i had modified the front bumper they just thought it was a after market bar. If you do a good job on the front bumper you wont get any hassle from the police. Do a dodgy job where they can see its been changed/modified then you might. I spent about a week chopping and modifiying the bar to make sure it was near to perfect in terms of looks and stability. Which as i said before included a full respray. ( i took off all the old paint and primered/painted and clear coated it) So i guess if ur going to do it, do it right the first time and not only will it look great, you wont get any hassle from the police.

it idles at 1100 normally??? Thats a bit high for idle... unless its warming up should b around 700-850 level. Try cleaning ur AAC valve... i would also look at lowering that idle.

lol.. 16kg?!?! Mine are 6.75kg from memory.... If your car is a performance car then get performance rims. Simple.

flushing the radiator is easy You dont have to pull it out to do it but i would recommend it. If you can pull it out. Make sure you undo the drain plug underneath first... from memory its on the passenger side bottom of the radatior. After its outs just shove a hose down the radiator and clean it all out. THe engine wise you can just put the garden house up the radiator piping to clean it out.

just a quick question on getting permit mods If you go down to the pits to get them and get knocked back for say too low or exhaust to loud will they sticker your car and ask you to fix them? sorry for going off topic a bit here.. but i have been thinking about getting permits before i get a yellow haha...

could b a blocked radiator i would try to flush it out and clean it. AS well as flushing out the engine to make sure u get it out. if that fails get a new radiator. Give the engine another flush to make sure its all out. add a new radiator cap as well. and where was it spraying from? The radatior cap? or the radiator it self? Or even the water pump?

hopefully clutch is run in by then... if not a good chance to bed it in. just dont leave me behind