Lil_Bobby_260

Lucky shot from a pelican. Or someone got cuaght by their missus up to shenanigans in roppongi

If it were just under braking i would have thought your brake booster has a vacuum leak but if its playing up shifiting upwards through gears you could be in dramas. A service never hurts - its something that should be done routinely anyway so may as well do it and if it fixes your problem then sweet. Definitely sounds like a leak tho. Did you try the ECU flash...?

very nice :-) yeah its gotta happen. More i read about it, and more i think about the auto sedan im driving at the moment, and the autech verison i used to have... much prefer manual for power delivery, power handling and driveability etc.

Looks like i'll definitely be doin it then. I have access to a hoist which will help no doubt. Where is local to you for that gearbox, mate?

well i want response - it'll be my daily. Im going the 30 for a bit more torque and quicker turbo spooling and obviously more outright power. Would you recommend switching to just RWD or keeping the AWD by going a GTR box? I might start amassing parts. The truckboy thread makes it seem very simple. Having a nissan mechanic on hand will probably help too.

I like your answers better than alex's, darrin. so does the missus... How would that box go with the power id be putting out tho? And the RWD gearboxes mount up to the AWD fine?

Yeah ive been told to go straight for a 35 housing... might have to. I'll be building that motor while driving it with a replacement long motor in place. Current engine is a bit rooted, but i'll just be using the head etc which will be getting tidied anyway etc. I'll be changing to manual when it gets the 30DET, it'll run auto til then. Just i dont think the auto will enjoy the power of the 30DET.

I get my new stagea next week :-) Went 8 months without one....

Yeah i read that and thought it overpriced. I'll be doing mine myself - with my neighbour anyway, hes a nissan mechanic which is a huge bonus. If i do it i'll take pics, shouldnt be too hard sa the whole engine and gearbox are coing out for an engine swap anyway. RB30DET, 3071R... :-) Would be a shame to put an auto behind it haha

Theres actually a photo tutorial of doing one that i had a read through just last night. I will most likely be doing one also - going from my old 260RS to the RSfour will be hard - and it needs to have the engine pulled out with the work im doing to it anyway which will make it easier. We could be manual conversion buddies :-)

wheel shudder is alignment 9 times out of ten BOV adapter will fit, turbosmart do a standard type as well as a plumb-back type.

As topic states - everything that bolts onto the engine is sweet, just dramas with a cylinder bore. Engine is going to be rebuilt on the side, need a long motor to slot in for the meantime. Engine must be in decent running order. As stated, dont need inlet or exhaust manifolds, turbo, etc etc. If you have them i will take them if they are attatched to the engine, but dont necessarily need them. Contact me via PM or post in this thread, or fire off a text to 0432 852 634 Thank you

Hey mate a few people have asked with no answer - whereabouts are you and the car located for inspection etc?

park it somewhere safe buddy.

The CM21 is infra red, yes. If its a manual you just get a clutch sensor switch that tells the cruise to disengage as it detects the clutch is disenaged. I guess you could just wander into any store that sells them and say you've been quoted that much and they should match it no worries. If they dont i'll freight them up to you through couriers please or something - about $8. We would fit that setup for $200 here.

The kit you would need is an AP500, and CM21 is your control omdule. $500 for the kit, $150 for the module. Car is obviously an auto?

keen on an answer to this also. Decent turbo with a matching flange available? or is it a new dump pipe type adventure?

$1500 is a bit rich haha holy hell! I'll get you a price on the best kit to suit, and the controller in your picture. i'll post here or PM you tomorrow. Can run a vacuum tank but meh may as well run the electric one, i have a couple sitting there. You can do a transfer or something and i'll send it up, or i can give a store closer to you a call and arrange for you to pick one up there.

My bad. Will PM you a linky dink.

[link]http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_1.htm[/link] Its the 7th turbo down the page. Boost control problems would be a wastegate issue nismoid? Thats why you recommend an externally gated unit...? Not sure if they fit under the shield ryan - they are a lil bigger.

I dont have the 260RS anymore... it was sold to fund the deposit on a house and the restoration of an old aussie muscle MACHINE haha.. Im having to drop back to an RSfour. Trying to sneak some modifications in under the missus' nose. R31 Nismoid no they use a different rear housing to allow it to bolt directly to the 6bolt flange. Ive heard this is what causes them to be a lil laggy but ive seen the two (original and HPiaB versions) next to each other and i dont see anything that would greatly impede the flow of exhaust gasses... WOuld it be a better option to go something different completely, and run a different dump pipe to suit? Im just chasing a low mount replacement that offers decent power and power delivery without creating to many hassles. now is that TOO MUCH TO ASK!?!?!?! GOSH!!!! sorry.... Ryan im picking up an RSfour next week that is pretty stock standard save for some wheels and suspension. Fresh canvas.

Ok well the good things are that they go straight in, handy if you have a full exhaust system including a dump pipe that goes to the factory 6 bolt flange. Only issue ive heard is that they are a little bit down on power due to the redesigned exhaust housing that lets them bolt in? Water lines need to be adapted etc but that is a relatively small issue. Vehicle - 1997 Nissan Stagea RB25DET Auto Modifications - Aftermarket exhaust system from turbo back 600x300x76 Greddy FMIC Turbosmart Boost Tee Turbosmart dual port BOV CAI fed completely shielded K&N pod filter Pretty certain i would have to step up to an E-boost too or other type of EBC in favour of the Tee, and upgrade injectors as ive seen that these peak out duty wise once you start running larger turbos. I dont really want to have to pull the engine down or even take the head off at this stage, is the main thing. Should i look at cams? even just the exhaust cam or an adjustable cam gear to help lower the spool RPM? Thanks guys. EDIT - the car in question is NOT the 260RS in my signature. cheers.

i sell command cruise control units where i work. I can get you a decent price including postage if you like, otherwise tou can come to brisbane and i'll get it fitted for you too. :-) Pretty sure you would need to allow $400-$500 for the unit (turbo cars needs an electronic actuator as opposed to the cheaper vacuum actuator for obvious reasons) including steering wheel controls or a stalk mounted control module. Can get you an exact price that may be more or less than that if you like.

love the mexicali there bud.

sad sad story... got to about halfway and i was thinking i KNOW where this is going...