nuclear_skyline

Rather than start a new thread: Can someone identify this cam gear for me? I have a variable cam gear on the exhaust side though it looks stock. Is this a modified standard one?

The part number on the core is the NISMO one. Both the housings are the NISMO ones as well apparently. Lucky find aye! Wonder when they were put on!

Whoops: Forgot to mention that you obviously need to wash the sump and ensure that no swarf is in there after drilling the holes...

First of all guys want to apologise for the poor quality of the photos - I was using my Iphone and it take rubbish photos so bear with them. Update!!! I have the engine and gear box out! Took it out the bottom with the cross member and gearbox attached. Nice part about it all - I have been able to clean everything. I was able to stand in the engine bay and prepsol the whole thing!!! All I can say is - WHAT A BITCH OF A JOB! People complain about working on mini's because they're tight in the bay but by god this car brings it to a new level! The engine is now out and on a stand getting lots of work done, well almost lots. There is a new timing belt, new ilder bearing, water pump, plenum gaskits and exhaust manifold gaskets. The amount of parts that have come out of the bay and off the engine are endless. As you can see in the pics - I have pulled the turbos apart... I went to rebuild them using the kits I bought but the turbine wouldn't fit! Turns out I have NISMO N1 turbos on the car! I was wondering for people in the know - do all GTRs have an adjustable exhaust cam gear? looks standard... See pic: Now onto the sump: Well hate to tell you this - no you cant do the sump with the engine in the car. Well I cannot conceive of any way you could achieve this. These are the pics and a mini how to: Take your sump off the bottom of the engine. Make sure you do it with the engine up the right way so no rubish or debri falls into the block. Take out the standard baffle palte with the 10mm bolts. Block off the breather hose for the transfer case and get the sump into a parts washer. Wash it thoroughly. Dry it thoroughly. Take it to a bench and drill a number of holes from the flat part of the sump back to the deep part of the sump. Make sure the edges of the holes are not burred and nothing in the future will break off and destroy your engine. Take one very nicely made, yet unreasonably expensive, TOMEI sump bafle kit and bolt the bastard in. Stand back and admire your handiwork. Bolt the sump back on! The turbos are off being fettled at the moment. The aircon compressor is being overhauled and the gearbox has been cracked open and all the bearings and synchros looked shmick!

Thanks for that. Yeah the car is quite laggy. I have them being looked at ATM. Reckon they'd be worthwhile rebuilding and throwing back on or should I get some standards? They do have a .60 housing front and rear.

Hi Guys, I have just started rebuilding my r32 gtr turbos and had an interesting thing happen. I took the turbos, once disasembled, to Freddy at Turbologic to have the insides checked over to ensure the core wasnt worn and he told me that the exhaust turbine I have in them is steel (inconel)! Can someone please have a look at this part number and let me know if I am dealing with N1 bush bearing turbos or rebuilt standards with an inconel turbine. This is how it appeared on the side of the turbo: XG 02340 14411 06000 466089-3 Thanks guys

I wouldn't get super worried about it. Paint the replacement panels. You'll probably find your car was run on salted snow roads. With the panels painted they shouldn't give u anymore grief.

I'll have a look.

clutch? is it push or pull if for sale?

I have a stock intercooler that can be yours for a case

My bet: Mini Cooper S (Replica) or a Leyland Clubman GT (replica). Both cheap cars to build. Parts are cheap and plentiful. Can be hideously quick in good hands. Very good car to learn about engines, handling, driving techniques in. Easily modified. Good on fuel. Chicks love em (though getting it on in one can be a lesson in yoga). Loved my race Cooper S (replica)... Building another now and looking out for some to sit in the shed as spares.

The silver GTR above is mine - awesome! Definately interested. Matt is there many more of my GTR on the disc?

Hey guys, I know next to nothing about clutches - so take it easy on me. I have just pulled my gtr engine and box and found my clutch is rooted, so obviously need a replacment. I am only taking the car to roughly 250-260rwkw as I want to keep it reliable on the standard engine so I dont think I need to go overboard with the clutch. I have heard from many people good advice pointing me in the direction of the NISMO coppermix twin plate but I am afraid the bills are stacking up and I wont be able to fit $2k into the budget. Speaking to N1GTR (Steve) he said the Exedy clutches are OK - just dont go over their power rating or they'll be rooted in no time. To the question: What exedy clutch should I be looking at? The Sports Tuff or the Single Plate Ceramic? I know i'll get more rattles with the single but this doesn't worry me overmuch. Any hints? I drive the car a lot - 40,000km/yr so want something that can handle traffic and the occasional track day (though I am not seriously competing hard). Thoughts are appreciated guys.

Awesome day - just awesome! nice to see so many other bnr32s as well... Thanks organisers!

^^^^ Proof is in the pudding. ^^^^

Definately. Its like ram tubs on carby's. Basically the idea is to straighten the air out coming into the inlet system - be it a turbo or a carby - and thus it increases the velocty of the air by decreasing the turbulence in it as it enters. I havent had any experience of them on injected turbo cars but I know I gained hp in my cooper s when I fitted them. The longer the better apparently - this certainly was the case as I fitted 3' ones and saw an improvement over the 1' ones i had on it before.Dyno proven.

You'd need a new fuel pump to ensure you didt run out of room - engine safety first of all. You'd need bigger injectors and a ecu. Also, be known that if your car wasnt designed to run on e85 it can be very corrosive to fuel lines, seals etc... most likely you'd get away with the corrosive part - but good to know either way

Please tell me you're not thinking about a detector... are you???

Thats true... Drop the oil out and see if there are any silver bits in it. If your keen run a magnet through it and see what comes out.

IF bits had come off the turbine you'd know about it. They're balanced pretty precisely and wouldnt last long at all if chunks, even small ones, were missing. Drop the cat and see if its stuff and/or maybe the dump and have a look-see.

For an unknown but rather brilliant reason my starter motor has started working again! Hopefully won't need the push start now Can't wait for Sunday - just have to make sure my misses can find the tickets!

want to wait till friday???

If you can wait till friday I know I have pipes as well

Shame about the date - have had family afflicted by Breast Cancer and would have liked to have to opportunity to participate.

Hi Mate I have a standard 33 exhaust in Picton Let m know if you're interested - case of beer and its all yours. I think I have a compliane cat, the dump and cat back!