SteveL

To search for parts without a VIN simply type the series your interested in into the 'Model Series' field (see first post above), then hit return and wait. After awhile you should see that the 8 (ie 2 rows of 4) buttons immediately below the model series/Prod.M/Y fields become available to select. If you click on each in turn you'll see that they are now drop-down boxes, which allow you to select the various broad model options available for that series. For example, one drop-down will show all the engines available for a particular model series; another will show transmission options and another will show 2DR/4DR type, etc, etc. So in your case simply type in R34 to 'Model Series', press return, wait, then select RB26DETT engine, 2Dr, Hicas, etc, etc. You can then search for the parts as described above. Note that if Nissan made changes to parts within the model series (ie supercessions), when you eventually come to select the parts you are interested in, the FAST system will ask you to make a choice about the month and year of manufacture of R34. At that point you will have to make a bit of an educated guess about which way to jump, although the FAST system will also show you the supercessions.....if you know where to look.

Looks more like casting artifacts to me. I'm particularly suspicious of the crack theory when it would appear that the largest crack doesn't extend completely to the clutch fork hole (but that might be just the nature of the photo). If the bellhousing is so severely cracked to the extent that it affects clutch operation, you should be able to see the cracks open/close with operation of the clutch pedal. Before having anything welded, you should have the cracking confirmed by an NDT specialist using dye penetrant or possibly even eddy current testing. Aviation industry specialists qualified to ANDT and CASA requirements are the best to use for this.

That's admirable and in 95% of cases probably perfectly fine, but in this case the thickness of the gasket is important because it influences the end float of the countershaft of these gearboxes. There's a procedure for selecting the correct countershaft shim, which relies on the thickness of the gasket (amongst other things). Also the genuine gasket has extra sealer pre-bonded to the faces (you can see it as thick 'lines' running around the surface of the gasket). You need to add the cost of your sealer to the cost of your gasket paper. I'm not criticizing you - I make my own gaskets sometimes as well - I'm just saying that in this case at least it's not as clear cut as you make out.

Forget the V8. Bolt in a VG30DET (Cima, Leopard, etc). These engines produce 190kW bog stock with no intercooler, plus they are dirt cheap to buy. Z31's for Oz either came with VG30E or VG30ET so putting in a VG30DET is relatively simple and it will bolt straight to the original auto (which probably won't last long behind a DET or a V8). Either way, VG30E/T engines in Z31 are best tossed as they are prone to spontaneously combust......and I don't mean internally

Nissan will have it and your probably looking at $20 or so. The seal should be replaced as well, but that can be obtained from any bearing specialist for a few $$.

Almost certainly the striker arm is out of place in relation to the engagement strikers on the selector rods. Also the selector rod interlock balls are what is preventing you selecting other gears. Only way to fix it is to drop the extension housing, reposition the selector rods to their correct location (ie gearbox in neutral for re-assembly purposes) and then bolt up the extension housing so that the striker arm engages the selector rod strikers correctly.

The RB25DE gearbox is identical to the RB20DET type (ie it's the 'small' style GB).

pm re: collar and restrictors

Looks like an RB25 type (R33 GTSt). $100 is a bargain, although depends on internal condition, of course.

The journals are undersize when the crank is ground, but anyway I'm fairly sure the first undersize available is .025, so you should be fine. Someone else will be able to confirm or otherwise.

All sold, thanks for the interest.

Having the 2 studs makes things easier to install in terms of keeping the gasket in the right position as well as aligning the dump pipe. Also, getting bolts in can sometimes be more difficult due to the curvature of the dump. I'd tend to use the studs myself.

Sale of the 2nd one is pending........

One gone to Chef_32, one still available.

Chef - I'm in Melbourne (Ferntree Gully)

I have 2 new XBox 360 20GB hard drive's for sale. I bought these new ones via the Microsoft upgrade program (I have two X360 consoles) thinking that I'd use the cases to install big HD's, but have decided I can't be bothered. Anyway, all I'm asking is what I paid for them....$35 each + postage, if needed (pick up is fine). They're still in the original shipping packaging they came to me in, plus they have the invoices included for any warranty claims. No offers thanks, that's the price, take it or leave it.

The Herald-Sun is saying it was a 4.7....

Lasted about 5secs in F/tree gully....the walls moved.

......

Yes. You should use the R34 oil feed banjo bolts as they have the appropriate restrictors built in.

Good work. With one exception, I can give the direct reference number, which is much easier for suppliers to work with. You mention in the first post that one o-ring could not be found. Do you have the dimensions as there might be something available that will be close enough to do the job ??.

Z387 http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/ap...n/model/Skyline Any repco, burson's, etc, etc.

PM

PM re- sump

It would be a good idea to say where your located.