SteveL

That's part of the bonnet hinge, I think (??). If so, that hole is the hinge pivot point and there's no bolt but more like a big rivet. A bolt might be used, but only guessing at the diameter.....10/12mm. Where's the other 'half', presumably on the car or bonnet ??

These are for RB26, I doubt that RB25 will be different but I don't have a manual for that engine. Crank is 0.028-0.046mm (0.0011-0018 inches) Conrod is 0.020-0.039mm (0.0008-0016 inches) It's actually a bit more complicated than that because main and conrod journals/tunnels/rods are graded at the factory and then bearing thicknesses are selected to get the correct clearance. OTOH, with an aftermarket set of shells it's all one size, although there would be a very small variation due to manufacturing tolerances. In your case, if you're confident the journals are in good condition (short of actually measuring them with a mic....not vernier and most people don't have access to the specialist bore gauges required for main tunnels and rods) and you have the original bearing shells still in their original locations on the rods and block, you can measure the clearance with plastiguage, which will be a reasonable guide to the condition of the bearings/journals.

Stick to standard practice to be sure - plastigauge clearance check. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plastigauge

I doubt the button just unscrews, more likely held in the end of the handbrake lever via a machined shoulder or similar. It may not be simple to remove without destroying the lever. See the embedded videos here, which show methods to 'replace' the handbrake cover and button: https://au.gktech.com/handbrake-drift-bttn https://au.gktech.com/r32-r33-r34-skyline-billet-handbrake-lever Titanium.....well, I suppose 'billet titanium' sounds so much sexier than 'billet aluminium'....sorry, 'billet aluminum'. Baffle the crowd with "I love the feel of my Ti6Al4V handbrake.....' Good luck with it.....

Always check for any fault codes (ECU and TCM if it has one) before just replacing parts.....could have been a complete waste of money. That money may have been better invested in a Consult cable and software like this (or similar): http://www.nissandatascan.com See also this thread about reading error codes directly: .....but I can't say whether that will work with your car as I'm not that familiar with R33's Also try a search on these forums or a general Google search for more info.

Seems to be a feature of these forums. Besides, black is the only colour worth having in an R32 GTR (don't care about the others....)

According to the parts lists I just looked at they all use the same clutch master (R32, R33, R34 GTR's) regardless of push or pull clutch, and the R33 does have booster. That makes sense because the clutch master doesn't know or care about push or pull and any differences in travel, etc can be accounted for at the throw-out mechanism. PN is C0610-05U00, superceded by 31610-05U01

Push type clutch has been around since forever. Simple and relatively cheap to produce. Pull type not so much in terms of design and application, but the pull type has advantages in terms of operating mechanism leverage so can give comparatively lighter pedal loads at increased plate pressure. The weak points of the Nissan push type clutch mechanism (used in early GTR's, etc) are the clutch throw-out fork and pivot ball. The design hasn't changed much since at least the 240z and is OK for stock or mildly up-rated applications, but increasing pressure plate ratings to competition levels can and has lead to failure of the clutch fork (fatigue cracking) and/or the pivot ball. The BRE 240Z's were probably some of the first to identify the problem in competition in the US. Most people will probably never have a problem. It really only appears at high pressure plate levels. I suffered a broken clutch fork in the Z at PI, and later a stripped friction plate on a supposed 'performance' clutch at the same venue....but that's another story. NISMO make an uprated pivot ball for many Nissan's that use the push type clutch. Not sure about the fork, but I'm sure that there's something 'billet' out there (and the crowd goes wild over the word 'billet'.....).

The stock analogue gauges on most cars have built-in damping and the GTR is no different. The stock gauges are designed to provide an 'at a glance' indication of the health of the engine, not absolute accuracy to a high degree. If you want 'accuracy' get a digital readout - maybe a HUD - with calibrated sensors.

Unfortunately terminology is the likely problem here, I think, not to mention the GTR manual is translated from the Japanese and there is some 'JapLish' resulting. The 'fastener' (PN 72725-04U19) referred to is a molded 'channel' that surrounds the left, right and top of the screen. The fastener's purpose is to hold the windscreen molds in place via the clips mentioned. It is embedded into the polyurethane windscreen seal at the time of windscreen installation. The clips have to be released from the fastener to take off the molds and the recommended method is using a shaped screwdriver between the mold and the windscreen to release the clips. My interpretation is that the 'sliding' reference is actually to 'sliding' the screwdriver under the mold to release the clips. In the same way, the 'pulling out lower end of molding' is actually a reference to moving the bottom part of the mold away from the windscreen after the clips have been released. That has to be done carefully as to no bend the mold. The mold could then be released at the top. Anyway, having actually attempted this years ago I can say it's extremely difficult to release the clips without breaking them. Unfortunately, the clips are no longer available from Nissan spare parts other than by buying a complete mold set. They are available via the Heritage program, but quite expensive. I bought complete new molding sets (front and rear) before the price went crazy and they've literally just been installed in my car.

/start thread again I used Geoff at Prestige Motorsport when I imported my GTR. Quite a long time ago now, but Geoff was very helpful. I'm in Melbourne. Car was delivered to Port of Melbourne (RO/RO) and I drove it home from there after changing the battery and a few basic checks.

Running out of options here. Amayama list the parts cheaper than Nissan (but still exy). Partsouq show nothing. Give these guys a try: https://www.autosurplus.com.au

Well there's these that supposedly fit a 1984 300C according to the compatibility list: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-Brand-New-OEM-QUALITY-Steering-Tie-Rod-Ends-For-NISSAN-LAUREL-C31/153729447915?fits=Model%3ADatsun+300C&hash=item23cafd37eb:g:OwEAAOSw8A1d0lnH ....but this is only the outer joint, there's also an inner as well (one each side - see previous parts screen shot). Sold as a pair because one will be LH thread, the other RH thread (also the reason Nissan PN's are different side to side). Ditto for the inner joint. The other possibility is to contact a specialist Nissan wrecker who sometimes also stock new aftermarket parts. BTW, that's not a chassis number....should have 'Y30' in it somewhere. Check the firewall or the ADR (compliance) plate. Compliance plate should look something like this (but this is for an 84 N12 Pulsar):

No, any local dealer should be able help with your VIN/chassis number available. 300C = Y30 in Nissan model 'speak', so either the FAST or E-FAST parts systems will tell you the Nissan PN's needed. E-FAST is for older Nissan models that Nissan has 'dropped' from the 'main' FAST system. Anyway, attached is a screenshot of a quick search I did on E-FAST. Ignore the CA20S line.....that engine was not used in this model in Australia, we got the VG30 version. These PN's should (must...) be checked with Nissan using your VIN. My versions of FAST and E-FAST are also a bit on the old side, so there may well be PN supersessions or worse (hopefully not) A quick check on Amayama suggests prices are up around $150 each (I didn't check them all though) , but that's genuine parts so probably not unexpected. I'd be surprised if these parts aren't available aftermarket (Repco/Bursons/etc....but some of these guys no nothing about anything older than 10 or 20 years unless it's a Holden, Ford, etc). There's also ebay, but that can be a lottery. These cars use a fairly common (for the day) steering box/drag link/idler arm steering arrangement so parts may well be similar to 240C and similar sedans.

This is the clutch:

To save potential buyers some time, below is a photo you sent me of the clutch you're trying to sell in your other for sale thread, which is also happens to be for an 'OS Giken' twin plate clutch, here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/462553-fs-os-giken-twin-plate-clutch-r32-rb26/ Is this the same clutch or do you have another one your now selling ? If this thread is for a completely different clutch, please post up photos for all to see (and more than just one).

PM

PM

PM re dash and diff.

PM

I'd be interested in the rest (blue covers) assuming a price can be worked out.

PM re: console + grill + drivers guard

PM re:valley cover.

This is the clue. More than likely you have oil coming out the diff breather, which is at the top of the diff cover. It's not uncommon during hard cornering/breaking, etc. If the oil smells strongly of sulphur, it's from the diff. Best thing to do would be to degrease the entire area, drive the car normally and see if the oil reappears.