SteveL

More likely the car was serviced at a dealer that used genuine filters. The 'A00' part of the PN indicates a very recent model Nissan vehicle. R34, I think, but I don't have access to FAST at the moment. The AFM design suggests something along those lines. The problem with that is that I didn't think Nissan use the RB20DET after the R32 model series (the RB20DE was continued to be used in pov pack versions), but am happy to be corrected.

I suggest you you read the link and try a little comprehension regarding how duty and GST is calculated for items valued at $1k+ (the op has already indicated that the overall cost to him before import is $1800, which includes $240 for freight.....you do the math). As to the rest of your post, I gather from your rather poor english that you are suggesting that the OP rely, basically, on pure dumb luck.......

Doesn't matter how it arrives as you've stated above that it's worth $1800, so you will be hit with duty and GST. As I said, Oz customs website has all the info, see here: http://www.customs.gov.au/site/page.cfm?u=5549 scroll to the bottom for an example calculation in terms of what you might expect to pay (be prepared to be reamed.......)

Generally: - if the item is valued at $250+ and you use an international courier to ship (ie UPS, Fedex, etc), you will be hit with customs duty, etc - if you use ordinary air mail, parcel post, etc then the item can be worth up to $1000 before you get hit. Note that I said 'generally' and you'd best check with customs first - there's plenty of info on their website.

Injector dropping resistor for RB26 and it's definately needed for stock injectors.

Check your brake fluid level.

They did when I last had my AAC off, but that was almost a year ago now.

The AAC can be easily removed without taking off the plenum, or sub plenum. It's bolted to the side of the sub plenum using 4 x 6mm bolts (10mm hex head) and these can be undone using small (1/4" drive or perhaps 3/8") ratchet. The bolts undo/come out toward the drivers side shock tower. It's actually more difficult to disconnect th short air hose connecting the AAC to the plenum as it's quite stiff and can be difficult to disconnect (or reconnect) in the confined space. There's also a gasket between the AAC body and the sub plenum which will almost certainly break or be damaged, so have a spare on hand.

The pressure light is a more reliable indicator than the stock gauge (pressure reading). In your case I'd recommend not driving the car and keep engine running to a minimum until you can connect up a reliable (known working) mechanical pressure gauge to check the actual oil pressure (or none........).

"Fat, drunk, and stupid is no way to go through life, son. "

Total Recall

That's correct. From the factory there's no gasket for the WP but Nissan uses a Sealant, usually 3-Bond or similar. Some aftermarket WP's come with a gasket, which is probably where the confusion occurs.

10% leakage is quite common on a production engine and personally I wouldn't get too concerned about 12% either. For a properly built racing engine <5% is regarded as acceptable, but around 2% is the practical ideal.

Generally the auto bolts are a few mm shorter because the manual flywheel is that much thicker than the auto flexplate (plus its spacers). AFAIC it's a good idea to replace these bolts as they're not that expensive.

Your mechanic is right.

Mate, turn off the caps lock. Specified GTR crank runout is 2 thou (max), so 7 thou is a bit much. Straightening a crank is a very common procedure, and, no, it doesn't affect the strength of the crank (assuming they know what they're doing).

You should note that Z31 turbo's did not have a BB turbo fitted standard.

By all means go for the full balance bar, etc if you have the $$$ and this is to be a serious racecar. However a simple adjustable Wilwood proportioning valve costs maybe $150 and for a bit more you could have it plumbed into the cabin. I've run one in the Z for years and it's essential AFAIC.

Eventually there would be. Generally, cooling systems are designed to operate in the region of 80 to 90C, with perhaps going to 95 in extreme circumstances. Certainly a properly designed cooling system in good condition should not see 100C and 110C is way too high. Pressurisation provides a safety margin by raising the boiling point, but keep in mind that the thermostat usually starts to open in the low 80's and will be fully open (ie full flow through the radiator) at around 90C, so the system is at max cooling capacity for any given engine speed. If the theromstat is fully open and engine temp continues to rise, there is probably some other cooling system problem (water pump on the way out or clogged radiator, etc.

The engine driven fan is controlled by the temperature of the air passing through the radiator. There's a bi-metallic strip on the front of the hub which controls internal passages and 'switches' the fan in or out. Of course engine speed also plays a role. If you still have the engine fan fitted it's possible the hub is stuffed and simply 'freewheeling', which would give bugger all engine cooling from the fan, and that would be worse in stop-start traffic (and that N1 pump wouldn't be helping either....). If you don't have the engine fan fitted then put it back on ASAP. The thermostatic fan on the front of the radiator isn't meant to be used as the main cooling fan for the engine. It's controlled by a sensor at the bottom of the radiator, plus has some link to the ECU (from memory). Basically it's meant to be for assidtance to the engine fan in extreme situations.....eg hot days with aircon on.

The harsh reality is that there's no-one here that can help you with this. Oh sure there's lot's of people with opinions, however only a _proper_investigation of the failure would determine the cause, but such an investigation would run into the thousands of dollars, and even then you might still not like the outcome. On top of that, your 'opposition' can also have their own investigation performed and then it comes down to argument in the courts, if it gets that far. Having been called as an expert witness in cases far more complicated than this, believe me when I say that it can get very messy and expensive quite quickly. My professional advice ??, save your money, buy another head, find another mechanic and get your car back on the road.

I've done it a few times and it's more difficult than it looks to get right (fast). Personally I prefer Morwell.

There is no 'loophole'. The regulations specifically exempt motorcycles - and motorcycles only - from carrying a front number plate, which is due to rider and pedestrian safety consideration and was brought about by an extensive campaign by the MRA in the 1980's (along with the support of a number of other road safety organisations). I suggest you have a read of the relevant regulations for yourself, as should the OP: http://www.dms.dpc.vic.gov.au/Domino/Web_N...33;OpenDocument As to front number plates being displayed through the front windscreen, I think the OP might also have a problem there as the regs specifically state: "A registered operator of a registered vehicle must ensure that each number plate issued by the Corporation for the vehicle is permanently affixed to the vehicle......" Note the word 'permanently'. I think any lawyer would have a hard time convincing a magistrate that a number plate sitting on the dash of a vehicle is in any way 'permanently' attached.........but I suppose you never know your luck. Where the OP might have a (slim) hope is the fact that the regs do give some leeway where 'due to the construction of the vehicle it is not practicable to comply with those paragraphs' (concerning affixing number plates). However since it is the OP's actions in changing the front bar which has resulted in the front number plate not being displayed, I suspect any argument in that area will also be 'problematic'.

There's no such thing as 300ZX with a 'quad cam single turbo' engine. The only quad cam engine used in the 300ZX series was the VG30 from the Z32 and that only came as a non-turbo (VG30DE) or twin-turbo (VG30DETT) from the Nissan factory. The single turbo quad-cam VG30DET was only used in Nissan's luxo-barges (ie Leopard and Cima).

vg30et type is more-or-less the same as RB30ET turbo and is non-BB + water-cooled. What is shown is a VG30DET turbo BB, water cooled as already stated, most likely from a CIMA. It's definately not a VG30DETT turbo, which is a much smaller T25 type. I believe the housing has to be rotated.