Gerg_R31

Any current issues? Knocks? Burning oil? Low comp? If no, there is no reason to do a rebuild. aka if not broke, don't fix it If planing to do a big build later buy a motor already done or a second motor and go nuts the first time, if you want just a little bit more power later drop in a det and upgrade the turbo and cams for the rev range your mostly going to use if your still keen to do a basic rebuild a light hone and crank linish with new rings and bearings minimum. new pistons if light hone doesn't clean up /my 2 cents

I think you have volumetric efficacy and dynamic compression ratios mixed up, everything you talked about explains volumetric efficacy So yeah cams will lower the CR with the intake valve closing when the piston is at BDC or the start of the compression stroke, then if you add boost it will raise the CR (rb30det 8.5:1 static comp intake valve closes at 60° ABDC add 15psi and you will have a dynamic comp of around 13.5:1) We don't use educated guesses or "rule of thumb" when we machine and build performance motors, so for us to build even better motors that perform the best they can for what they will be used for, we have to understand and use the formulas to prevent something that will cause a problem, i.e over cammed for its purpose.

The how to work out your dynamic compression ratio isn't my idea but i was just explaining the difference between static CR and dynamic CR as someone mentioned the ITBs affect it which it doesn't. I've no idea what dynamic CR should be recommended but i am looking into it But if you disagree then maybe you should try your best to correct me

Cam followers*

Alloy blocks distort a shit load more i.e gen III LS blocks, distort 2 thou with standard bolts

Not all standard cams can be ground, but they can be metal sprayed then ground to suit, the trade off to this is its more expensive then buying aftermarket cams most cams by who ever made them will state their rev range, stock cams will suit lower revs but loose power up top, bigger cams will shift the power band up giving "cam lag" in the lower revs (i.e my cams are suited for 3000rpm to 7000rpm with the rb26/30 i got, in with a 26 bottom end it would be 3500-7500+ but its a massive pig to drive below 30km/h) bigger cams usually require upgrading of valve springs, retuned air fuel ratios etc, sometimes even changing cam

At work with our torque plate i tested it, honing, then measuring, then putting on torque plate then measuring again i got varied results; Standard bolts barely made any difference 11mm studs up to 3 tenths of a thou distortion 12 mm studs up to 4 tenths of a thou

Angry on the 31 club sells coil overs for the 31, i got a set and only took the one day to put them in

Neos have solid cam followers too, the max you can go with the neo heads, add ferrea valve springs retainers spring base locators, max 10.8mm lift cams lathe 2-3mm off bottom of cam followers

Coilovers are a bit stiff. got a full brake, weight and suspension check done, i was close with my rough set up. will load up pics soon as i get time

My r31 with n/a rb26/30de cost me about $18k for motor coilovers brakes sway bars haltech tune, exhaust etc to get it where it is now with 225hp and trade prices and working at a machine shop. Though my idea was for circut racing, fast into corners and fast out, but also knowing ill get over taken on straights So yeah i agree n/a cars aren't cheap and to get that power the trade off for me is loss of disability below 30km/h Someone mentioned some time ago "cheap fast reliable, pick 2"

From memory of the 25 valve springs 1 is shorter and the other is the same as a standard 26 You will have to check the installed heights and compare to make sure they have enough lift

Think of it this way, heat creates evaporation, evaporation becomes rain as it cools, radiator same principal

Line bores should only be done if the tunel is out of alignment, new caps, or new studs which involves grinding the caps then trying them down, and making the tunel back to oem specs sounds line the machinist didn't line bore it properly. and he didn't dummy assemble before grinding the block

I get 480kms out of a 64 litre tank of 98 (with the 26/30 10.75:1 comp plus big cams)

Oil change... done oil cooler braided lines... done mount oil cooler and braided lines... done recheck valve to cam clearances... done re tension head studs... done repair broken cam cap bolt and helicoil hole... done tap and fit speed flow fitting to cam covers... done make braided lines for catch can... done fit catch can and braided lines... done fit coilover suspension... done Wow I've been busy this weekend will load pics up later

Email them and find out, Im sure some people may even sign up the night before

Always wanted to turn a prius into a burnout car with a fuel guzling v8

There are a few more pics/ vids on made 3 & 4 Oil change, oil cooler and catch can going on this weekend, might even start on the coil overs. all depending on how many cases i buy

Machining the snout of the crank and original oil pump drive, press fitting on, drilling and tapping 2 grub screws, Gives more surface area to connect with on the oil pump and yeah how did we miss that

I bet its not cracked, if anything a bit of detonation being mistaken for a crack

Agree there is nothing wrong with the Ross, acl/mahle pistons, they will do the job, personally from what I've seen cp & je are equally the better quality piston

Main tunnel annular groove We've done a few annular grooves lately but as r33_racer said it comes down to personal preference, works fine with and without i didn't bother with it in my n/a 26/30

Cp or Je pistons would be better then the acl stuff

Lol talking about the popo, had an obviously under cover cop change lanes at the last second to sit behind me at the lights, i took off as normal, changed gears, he then went back to the lane he originally was in, maybe he lost interest after not hearing any turbo related items Nope brand new, but they get a decent work out, might have to look into getting engine struts